huntfam_3

No Power To The Fuel Pump

21 posts in this topic

Here is my problem, I replaced the fuel pump, fuel pump strainer and inline fuel filter, and now I cant seem to get any power to the new fuel pump. I check the electrical lines with a tester and nothing. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you're having a hard time identifying the fuel pump relay, it's marked "circuit" relay on my '97. May be the same on yours :smile:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My father-in law has a 97 626, so I borrowed the EGI Main Relay and tested it. Nothing. I have checked all the fuses I could find. All of them but the AC were good.

Per the Tech Manual I took the cover off the Diagnostic box and using a jump wire connected the F/P to the NEG. ^_^ But still nothing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some of our cars require you to go to the 'start' position and not just the 'on' position in order for the relay to pick.

Also in my car the FP relay is the 'circuit' relay, not the 'EGI main' relay. Maybe it's labelled differently for your year.

Maybe a poor ground on the Fuel pump. Have you tried bringing 12 volts to it by just wiring it to the battery as a test? You may want to put a fuse inline while testing if you think there may be a short.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I tried it in Start and on. The only thing I havent tried is a direct conection. How would I go about doing that, Just undoing the wires from the fuse box? -_-

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Are you able to get to the connector back at the fuel pump? I would try it there. If you can get to the conector and disconnect it then you could use your meter to measure the resistance of the pump motor by measuring between the outside connector wires. There should be some resistance. It shouldn't be shorted and it shouldn't be an open condition. Most motors measure in the single-digit range of ohms such as 4 to 8 ohms.

Another place you should be able to measure the resistance of the motor is by pulling the 'circuit' relay out and placing your leads on the 2 connector leads that go to the pump. When you pull the relay the 2 leads are the ones closest to the fender. Here's a pic of mine. I just went out and measured it. Mine was 6 ohms.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok. I will try that once I leave work today. I sure appreciate all the help and will keep u informed if that doesn't work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just the ohms scale. Mine is a digital auto-ranging meter. It determines the range. If you have one that you have to set manually, then set it to the X1 ohms(resistance) scale.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Still haven't tried the direct connection. Had to visit family this past weekend and show off my new son. He is only 3 weeks old.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Still haven't tried the direct connection. Had to visit family this past weekend and show off my new son. He is only 3 weeks old.

congrats!

back to the problem... did you check the wires for stripping??? could be grounding out

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i did check. the only places the wire is showing is where I used a ohm meter to test the wires. Other than that every thing check out alright. B)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
i did check. the only places the wire is showing is where I used a ohm meter to test the wires. Other than that every thing check out alright. B)

Did you measure about 6 ohms as shown in my picture? If so then for now you can say your pump is ok and also the wire going from that point on the fuse box back to the pump. Time to start checking if you have 12 volts supplied to it via the fuel pump relay. B)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's the fuel pump relay circuit. This way you can see that when you go to start your car the relay is energized with 12volts on Terminal 'A' and Ground on Terminal 'B'. This will tie Terminal 'C' to 'D'.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Which is the fuel pump relay? The white one called circuit? 98 626 V6

img-68100-1-mazda.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i believe it to be the green one. is yours a euro 626?

(KLG4 18 811)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine is a Canadian '98 2.5 V6. BTW, I spoke to a dealer technician and he said not to bother with pulling a relay and wouldn't tell me without seeing it anyway. He said they never do...just put a rag to catch some gas for the fuel pump replacement operation. There was very little pressure released so no problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm having the same problem but what I want to know is there a fuse for the fuel pump anywhere, Have power to one side all the time and get power to the other side after the key is turn on but stil no fuel pump activating. Check for voltag at the fuel pump with the key on and there's nothing . I know someone out there has had this problem please help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You say you have power to one side all the time but no voltage. Is power getting to the pump when the key is on? If the pump doesn't work when fed voltage one could reasonably assume it's the Fuel Pump Relay or the Fuel Pump that is dead. I'll look up exactly how much voltage is required to turn the pump on if you like. Please clarify how you are taking your readings and where.

Welcome to Mazda626.net xholliman.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now