Posted November 15, 2002 · Report post KLDE/KL-DE/KL03 Vacuum Hose Diagrams for Mazda 626, Mx6, and ford Probe. Diagram 1: Color Coded Diagram 2: From FSM Available as Full Size Pdf Here: Mazda_KL_DE_94_Vacuumhose_Diagram.pdf Diagram 3: Diagram taken from Bradbury website. Mazda_KL_DE_94_Vacuumhose_Diagram.pdf Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted November 25, 2002 · Report post I just bought a weapon R intake for my 4 cyl and I desperatley need to know how how to install the largest vacuum hose please give me a hand thanks B) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted November 25, 2002 · Report post There should only be one hose that needs to be connected, that hose connects to the valve cover. Check out this photo at my old website: http://groups.msn.com/TriStateMazda626MX6C...hoto&PhotoID=34 This was a photo of someone elses 626. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted August 25, 2004 · Report post It seems you can turn the valves, how do you know where they should be turned to? One got turned a bit when I installed my CAI, probably soemthing less than 180 degrees, would this make any difference? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted October 17, 2004 · Report post i personally though this one was alot easier to understand, this one is only for taking off the IM though Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted October 25, 2004 · Report post what does the EGR control posion senor do and what position is it sopost to be in? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted October 23, 2006 · Report post I think that the 2nd diagram just saved my life Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted September 5, 2007 · Report post the second diagram is AWESOME ... and also avail from autozone repair website, but its hard to find. there is a post on this forum by flora regarding it. its not colorized (the poster colorized it here). it's also likely higher resolution and i like it more, but this picture is still awesome. the first diagram is a neat thing, but doesn't help when you're trying to connect all those vacuum lines on the manifold. lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted March 22, 2009 · Report post i personally though this one was alot easier to understand, this one is only for taking off the IM though Great post Sir, This is great help to find the EGR. The 626 is my wifies car I have multiple BGs so they are just a bit different. OBD III on the 98, my BGs are OBD II. This care is a great cruising vehicle, throws codes often but never has been a seriously ill vehicle. It's always an o2 sensor, air issue. I'm going to pull the Egr to clean, see if that does the trick. I once had a 351M in a 78 Tbird, that was forever stopping up. riverrunnernky Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted March 5, 2010 · Report post i have a 97 mazda 626 ,it starts up fine but hesitates bad when accelerating.pre converter was stopped up but is now gutted.main cat also gutted.wondering if o2 sensors are causing this.i bought car1 year ago has been sitting since because of this problem.(bought car with cats gutted). please help if you can. thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted May 17, 2010 · Report post I just installed a Purge control Valve in my '96 w/ the 2.5L and now I have a P0300 code so this diagram has helped alot. . well so far since my idle is still messing up Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted January 18, 2011 · Report post I have been chasing a P0443 error (EVAP System) for a while. Finally gave up and went to have it tested at TUNEX. They were very helpful and were able to figure out my problem and fix it in an hour. The short story answer is that the electrical connector to the Purge valve was swapped with another connector under the air box. What I did find in my attempts was that the engine changed in 1998-2002. The vacuum diagram posted here is for earlier models. I have attached the printout given to me by TUNEX. I hope it helps. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted April 6, 2011 · Report post ugh my 2.5 has a major vacuum leak.. i cant locate it you can hear it from the back side of the motor but i cant find the source any ideas Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted June 6, 2011 · Report post ugh my 2.5 has a major vacuum leak.. i cant locate it you can hear it from the back side of the motor but i cant find the source any ideas I had a mechanic solve this one for me. It is probably a vacuum leak from the throttle body. The factory gasket wasn't sealing well enough even though it was new. He made a custom gasket out of thicker material that has worked like a champ for over a year. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted June 6, 2011 · Report post ugh my 2.5 has a major vacuum leak.. i cant locate it you can hear it from the back side of the motor but i cant find the source any ideas I had a mechanic solve this one for me. It is probably a vacuum leak from the throttle body. The factory gasket wasn't sealing well enough even though it was new. He made a custom gasket out of thicker material that has worked like a champ for over a year. thanks for sharing. I have a leak somewhere after doing a valve cover gasket and have removed the manifold 5 times, just 3 yesterday and still could not find the air leak. it is coming from the throttle body area but since i bought a new felt pro gasket, i thought it should not be the problem and blamed the canisters which i check is in good condition. do you happen to know if he used some paper/metal gasket or just rtv? Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted June 6, 2011 · Report post There's all sorts of gasket material. For gaskets I prefer Advanced Auto's variety. AutoZone doesn't carry the same stuff. I made my MAF adapter gasket out of a sheet of cork. There's also thin rubber which is good stuff too. You could make a home made one of out a sheet of rubber. Don't know where you'd get that but I've since come to appreciate the rubber gaskets much more than cork. Cork will wear down and eventually get sucked into your intake system. Not good. The rubber and RTV sealant works much better than cork. Cork is for oil gaskets because it soaks it up. It's not for intake gaskets in my opinion but you could use it for that which I have and regret. 1 person likes this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted June 7, 2011 · Report post thanks this is the throttle body gasket i bought and its made out of metal. I was wondering if I should just rtv from the throttle body side with this shape without the metal gasket or should i use the metal gasket and put rtv on both sides? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted June 7, 2011 · Report post If it's a metal gasket then you shouldn't need to RTV. Metal gaskets should last a lifetime. What kind of gasket was there? I'm honestly not sure about a metal gasket and RTV. You don't want the RTV squishing out so that eventually it will be sucked into the intake. RTV is high temp stuff and it won't break down. Might cause all sorts of trouble so I'd just stick with the metal gasket since it's close to the intake manifold. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted June 7, 2011 · Report post thanks. just read how bad it is to the head if the rtv get sucked in. My issue now is I believe this metal gasket is not sealing very well. It originally had metal gasket but broke off when i pulled the throttle body. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted December 1, 2011 · Report post Curious - is this for your 2001 626? The pics of throttle body gaskets on the web look a bit different - this is what I found for 2001 throttle body gasket. Also - found some interesting info here. You may have the incorrect gasket.. "may have".. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mazda-626-Millenia-2-5L-V6-TBI-Throttle-Body-Gasket-OEM-/150593019193?item=150593019193&vxp=mtr Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted December 1, 2011 · Report post There are different gaskets for the I4 vs V6. I've since learned that the Felpro black sheet works just fine. You can even make it yourself using a sheet and exacto knife for just about any gasket in the car except the head gasket of course. In fact, I prefer it over the metal and definitely DO NOT recommend a cork sheet for the TB. The cork will eventually break down and get sucked into the intake but it will burn off. The Black gasket material is more like really thick fiber/rubber. Will last much longer, seals better, and will still burn. If a metal gasket breaks and gets sucked into the intake that will obviously not burn off and might cause mechanical damage in the combustion chamber. The metal will obviously last the longest. It only seals the best if you have true flat mating surfaces from the IM to TB. It can corrode (decade or two) where as the others will last 2-5 years. Your results may vary and hope what I've learned recently helps someone out there. :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted April 1, 2012 · Report post I will post this somewhere else. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted April 2, 2012 · Report post I believe on the MX-6 V6 there is is a seal embedded in the throttle body that CANNOT be replaced with a gasket in the same way the I4's can. Might want to read up on this topic: http://www.mx6.com/forums/2g-mx6-general/246672-iac-gasket-injector-seals.html http://www.mx6.com/f...7764-post6.html I don't know if it's the same for the 626 V6 but worth a read anyway. Hope that helps. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted July 12, 2012 · Report post i personally though this one was alot easier to understand, this one is only for taking off the IM though This diagram is missing an egr boost sensor (MAP). Its connected to the egr boost sensor solenoid valve (not shown either). I don't see it in the haynes manual maybe because its not used in a ford probe, but I know it's in mines. 1 person likes this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted February 5, 2013 · Report post This color coded diagram is about to save my life tomorrow. My VRIS isn't functioning properly (no doubt due to the rat's nest of brittle vacuum lines that are supposed to regulate VRIS, and not the 2 new solenoids I just bought (which were tested by directly applying 12 volts)). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
