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davidRod626

loping idle, easy stalling, electrical fault in the entire system.

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lets start off by this i replace the timing belt after the job. the electrical system in the entire car illumination also connecting with the coil pack doesn't keep a steady current flow to every connection. i replace the alternator (because the old one had oil). thats a reman. has a brand new battery. but the car continues to rise and drop RPMS (750-500) it repeats with a one sec tick in PARK, DRIVE,REVERSE, OR COLD START IDLE. (note) the car is setup with a amp and aftermarket stereo connected with a second battery for the amp load. i moved around wiggling any power wires thats on the main fuse box, tried the positive wire that generate power current. checked the belt tension. now once the car idles down to normal, temperature coolant normal. instrument cluster flashes me a Battery sign when the engine cycle one spin around (so 750 RPMS DROPS TOO 500RPMS RECOVERS BACK TO 750RPMS[BATTERY FLASHES] I'm reaching out to you guys cause this is my very car i own and really enjoy this car and would be very devastating to junk the car 

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Aftermarket stereo wiring is notorious for creating problems. The first thing I would try is disconnecting it completely.

Another likely cause of fluctuating idle is a vacuum leak in the air intake.

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hello thank you for taking the time to share your thoughts, apparently i discover the engineering about the probable cause&effects with the code Po400 EGR RECIRCULATION, with a lot of headaches and brainstorming. i learn to discover that the code Po400 is linked also with not only the EGR but ALSO the IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE. with my concern is why this car does not pick up the IAC on the OBDll. was able to find the source to this problematic issue to be a old IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE. with the symptoms that i title on this post. 

 

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