Jump to content
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Sign in to follow this  
DanielM

NO Start, Replaced Coil . Now What?

Recommended Posts

I've been on and off this site for years. My Original Owner baby is real sick, and I know their are some real Genius's on here. So I'm laying my chips on the table. 

Okay, So here is the story. It worked Monday, wouldn't start Tuesday Morning. I poked around here and else where Looking for Possible causes. Getting no Spark to the Plugs. I opted to order a new Coil since the Plugs and wires are new. Got it Friday, installed and no such luck. Put a multimeter on the line for the Crank Shaft Position Sensor. NO Voltage (Assuming it has a 12V feed) btw, where does the come from?

I didn't have a Scanner, but one of my coworkers gave me one.... :-). Here are the error codes I'm getting. P1131, P11333, P0400. 

This is my only transportation to work, Public Transit it a one way trip only, and I have already spent most of my disposable income for the month on that replacement coil. So it 's all me getting it fixed. As much as my baby needs work, I can't afford to just replace everything. Gotta get her running then put the budget for what I can repair later. Kinda sucks. 

Any and all suggests, greatly appreciated. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Those codes are all O2 sensor codes? I don't think they would help explain a no spark problem.

Timing belt broken? As a quick first check, remove the oil filler cap, look inside and check to see if the cam gear turns while a friend tries to start the car. (When did you last change the timing belt and tensioner?) When it cranks, does it sound different from normal, like the engine spinning more quickly?

As far as I know, there isn't supposed to be voltage going to the crank position sensor. It's the crank potion sensor itself that sends a small electrical pulse to the ECU. But since you don't have a code for the crank position sensor, my guess would be that it's not the problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, NickR said:

Those codes are all O2 sensor codes? I don't think they would help explain a no spark problem.

Timing belt broken? As a quick first check, remove the oil filler cap, look inside and check to see if the cam gear turns while a friend tries to start the car. (When did you last change the timing belt and tensioner?) When it cranks, does it sound different from normal, like the engine spinning more quickly?

As far as I know, there isn't supposed to be voltage going to the crank position sensor. It's the crank potion sensor itself that sends a small electrical pulse to the ECU. But since you don't have a code for the crank position sensor, my guess would be that it's not the problem.

Belt is present and turning the cams. Certainly not a broken belt. I was watching a YouTube Video on the Sensor, and that's wait I gathered from it. All good points. Now I'm motivated to go out in the Cold Cold and get back to diagnosing the problem. Thanks for your comments Nick. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On further checking, I think I was wrong about the 12 volts.

Hmmm. I sold my 2002 626 some years back, so I can't remember exactly what crank position sensors it has. But I think there's one down by the crank pulley. For the 1993 to 1998 cars, there should be resistance of between 520 and 580 ohms between the 2 wires going to that crank position sensor. I don't know if it's the same for the 1998-2002 cars, but it might be worth checking the resistance with your multimeter. Then I think there's a second one on the rear cam shaft.

Edited by NickR
adding info

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎12‎/‎2‎/‎2018 at 4:22 AM, NickR said:

Those codes are all O2 sensor codes? I don't think they would help explain a no spark problem.

Timing belt broken? As a quick first check, remove the oil filler cap, look inside and check to see if the cam gear turns while a friend tries to start the car. (When did you last change the timing belt and tensioner?) When it cranks, does it sound different from normal, like the engine spinning more quickly?

As far as I know, there isn't supposed to be voltage going to the crank position sensor. It's the crank potion sensor itself that sends a small electrical pulse to the ECU. But since you don't have a code for the crank position sensor, my guess would be that it's not the problem.

I checked for power at the coil pack connector. Nothing present with switch on or at cranking. Would a bad Crank Sensor keep the Coil pack from getting power?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also, I checked for voltage on the Crank sensor connector with switch on only, and got 1.5 v. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I went ahead and ordered a Crank Shaft Position Sensor, based on the fact that I have no RPMs showing on Crank. Comes in on Friday, Hopefully early enough for me to install it before work. If that doesn't do it, then I'm going to be stuck and I'll focus on fixing my wife's POS Chevy Equinox.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

*UPDATE* Crank Shaft Sensor arrived Friday. Installed and Started. Notes of interest: The dip stick tube is literally in the way. Had to remove the Idler wheel assembly to access the bolt holding the tube in place. Thanks for all your feedback. Can't wait to do the timing belt, head casket and more. :-). 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×