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You need to figure out why the engine failed. First step is getting the engine out  and making sure the block is good. A machine shop can magna flux it and make sure it’s not cracked. You need to measure all the crank journals and make sure they are in spec, if not you will need to have the crank grinded and fitted with oversized bearings. If the block must be bored you need new pistons to match the new bore... new rings. rod and main bearings. A head gasket set. The head will need to be milled and at the minimal you should do valve seals. All the specs are in the work shop manual. I hope That helps at least a little bit. 

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Oh I see, youre taking a page out of my book....”if it ain’t broke, fix it till it’s broke”

if you are in fact willing to take a working engine out, take it all apart, put it back together, reinstall the engine then I say go for it. Machine work isent cheap and if you take the long block to a machine shop it could cost up to $2000 to have them do the whole job. You should get very fimilar with the factory work shop manual. It’s a big task especially for someone who never done it.

Rebuilding an engine is rebuilding an engine. Not much differs. Research how an engine works and the components of an engine there’s a lot to consider. You must keep it extremely clean a tiny spec of dust on a crank journal can cause a catastrophic failure.

If it’s not knocking or burning a ton of oil I would drive it till it breaks. Then attempt to repair your first engine

whatever you decide to do I wish you the best of luck!

My 2 cents 


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Right now it runs ok just rough and leaks everywhere. I am just wanting to try and start getting everything I need to do a rebuild and rebuild the manual granny as well. Just looking for info on parts and what is best on parts. I would like to have it bored 10 over 

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  • 1 month later...

If it has as much miles as he says then the cylinders will probably need to be bored. This is what I would do since it is exactly what I did awhile back on my Ford 360 V8. Since I had already done a Ford 302 and 289 it was very much the same. I removed the engine and broke it done completely. It was obvious the bearings needed to be replaced. A cylinder wall had a gouge. I miked a few cylinders and decided I could go .020 over. I l already had a 390 crank ready that was .010 under. The rods needed to be resized. So now off to my machine shop. One guy handles the heads and the other guy handles the blocks. I discussed it with them and then they gave me their recommendations.


Now this is a V8 so that means 8 sets of everything and not 4 sets. My engine was also balanced which many don't do. I supplied the cam I wnated and the valve springs. I let them assemble the engine this time so my time was short. For $100 it was actually a bargain. I end up coming out with a 390 engine with the machine work, head work and all the needed parts all for $2300 which included a sleeve. That is San Francisco Bay Area price. A four is definitely less than that. These same guys will one day do my Mazda engine along with two others.

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