Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Car is a 2001 626 DITD, LHD, 4-door sedan.

The headlamps, low and high on both sides stopped working a couple of days ago.  Tail lights and front position lights (W5W bulbs in high-beam reflector) work fine with headlamp stalk switch in Park, and On positions.

I found and checked fuses under the hood, a huge 40A next to the battery positive terminal, and two mini 15A near the left strut tower.  Checked bulbs (continuity test OK, and jumpering red wire to positive battery terminal lights them up), and bulb grounds.

The most frustrating thing is that there's no main/central fuse and relay box under the hood.  I checked various relays scattered about the engine compartment, and determined the following: 

Near the left headlamp lives the the radiator fan relay.

Right behind the right headlamp we have a/c compressor and a/c condenser fan relays. 

A little further back (and more accessible) we have a group of four identical-looking rubber-booted relays, one of which I was able to confirm to be the horn relay.  With this discovery I was able to confirm that all four of those are functional (connecting them one by one to the horn relay socket and testing the horn).

I found one picture on the internet which suggests that one of the relays next to the horn relay should serve the headlamps.  I also found a wiring diagram which I thought might be correct for the car.

However, testing with my multimeter makes me think that the diagram may not be correct.

Could someone please post a link to a headlamp wiring diagram for this specific car ? 

Some kind soul put u an OCR'ed .pdf version of the EU GF service manual from 1997 (1577 -10-970), which has a reference to what could contain the right wiring diagram:

626 Wiring Diagram (Europe (L.H.D.)) ............. 5406-10-97D

However, I have not been able to find this publication online.

If I could get he diagram, I'm sure I would be able to figure out the problem.  Any and all help would be greatly appreciated !






Link to post
Share on other sites

No wiring diagram or additional technical info became available last week, so I had to figure it out myself.  The diagram in my previous post is incorrect for a European diesel-engined 626.

Behind the right headlamp on an easily accessible metal bracket, one can find the low-beam, high beam, and horn relays, in that order counting from the fender inwards.  There's also a fourth relay on this bracket but I did not determine what it was for (might be for rear window defroster).

There are two 15A mini fuses, one for both low beams, and the other for both high beams, on the opposite side of the engine compartment near the strut tower and air box.  Low beam fuse supplies power to the low-beam relay, and high beam fuse to the high beam relay.  The DITD engine's air box is where the main fuse/relay box is located in models with other engines (and shown in the picture in my previous post).

Battery voltage should always be present at these two fuses (terminals closest to the fender), and is supplied by one white wire that goes through the wiring harness to a large grey multi-pin connector located under the air box.  There's also a 40A maxi fuse for headlamps at the fuse block attached to the battery positive terminal, and power to that white wire eventually originates from this fuse.

The white wire connection in the large grey connector under the air box was responsible for the problem of inoperative high and low beam headlamps.  I tried to clean the connectors, they were just too corroded be able to provide a reliable connection.  The poor connection allowed a no-load voltage to the headlamp circuit of between 8.5V and 11V, but not enough current to trigger even one of the two relays.

The connector pins for this connection are small, resembling pins for a signal wire rather than a power wire that needs to carry up to 18A when both low and high beams are in use (2x H7 lows and 2x H1 highs at standard 55W each).

My solution was to cut the white wire before and after the grey connector, and solder in a new piece of wire to bypass the connector, leaving it long enough to still allow disconnection of the connector.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...