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'97 626 2.0 4 cyl, manual , no spark, long work effort


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Hi guys, gals. Seems like these 626s commonly have "crank but no spark/start issues".

I'd really appreciate some help if anyone can spend the time - my son and I have been trying to get his car running for about 6 months now :)

First issue, car would start, idle/run good for about 60s then start wanting to die at idle and cut out when the throttle was blipped open. After 60s, car was very hard to start.I checked fuel pressure, found it was on low side of the min-max and that the hold pressure with the key off bled off to nothing. Ordered and replaced pump, solved low pressure and hold pressure problems.

But, the car still ran the same and then suddenly would not start at all, cold or hot. I had no spark at the plugs now.

Moved on to distributor, checked resistance measurements inside of it. Were out of spec, replaced distributor with new unit.

Turn the key, no spark. Checked all fuses inside car and under hood that I know of, all fine. Checked for distributor rotation i.e. ensure timing belt hadn't broke. All good.

Checked crankshaft sensor, ~550 ohms is desired and that is what ours reads. Picked up a used PCM cheap on a hope and prayer, no change.

Checked voltages at two connectors of distributor, seem to be correct from what info I can gather.

I'm checking the "main relay" currently - side note here, I can't find the dealership repair manual for the '97 as it seems to be missing from many of the archives I've found, so I've been working off possible incorrect info. Anyhow the manual says continuity should be present on blades E-A of the relay. Then when 12+ is applied to E and A grounded, blades B-F should have continuity. Not the case with the relay I think is the "main relay".

So first question, can someone send a pic or describe which relay is the "main relay" in the underhood fusebox for a 97 626?

Then, the correct continuity tests would be really helpful. 

I'll be honest I've been staring at this thing too long :)

If someone can give me the steps they would take at this point I'd appreciate it.

Quick shot-out to this site too, it has been enormously helpful so far.

Thanks 

Mangus

 

 

 

 

 

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Add some info here, I think I may have confused the green relay (part # NF02 066700-9471) as the main relay when in fact, it is the fuel pump relay.

The relay to the left of this green relay (part # FS11A) is actually the "main relay". Testing it now for continuity - it has 300 ohms between the two silver blades, no continuity between any of the other blades. Any other guidance on how to test this main relay?

 

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Tried to edit my post above, but too much time had passed. 

The relay to the left of this green relay (part # FS11A) is actually the "main relay". Testing it now for continuity - it has 300 ohms between the two silver blades (E-A), no continuity between any of the other blades (F-B). If I apply voltage to the left silver blade (E) and ground the right silver blade (A) it clicks and continuity appears between the lower blades (F-B). No voltage, but continuity. Should there be voltage on these lower blades (F,B) or does the relay just ground the circuit?

   E--A

F---------B

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  • 1 month later...

The relay sounds like it's doing what it should do. It clicks, and connects the other pins for continuity, that's all.

With how far you are into troubleshooting, I'm sure these are silly questions, but - how are you verifying that you have no spark? I assume you're pulling and holding the plug threads against a known good ground, verified with 0 ohms against the negative battery terminal? I only ask because I've done plenty of advanced troubleshooting to find something simple that I've overlooked, before.

Also, after cranking a couple seconds, are you pulling a wet / gassy plug? Just to verify fuel delivery.

 

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  • 9 months later...
On 4/1/2017 at 4:14 PM, smuryof said:

The relay sounds like it's doing what it should do. It clicks, and connects the other pins for continuity, that's all.

With how far you are into troubleshooting, I'm sure these are silly questions, but - how are you verifying that you have no spark? I assume you're pulling and holding the plug threads against a known good ground, verified with 0 ohms against the negative battery terminal? I only ask because I've done plenty of advanced troubleshooting to find something simple that I've overlooked, before.

Also, after cranking a couple seconds, are you pulling a wet / gassy plug? Just to verify fuel delivery.

 

Answer him.

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On 4/1/2017 at 3:14 PM, smuryof said:

The relay sounds like it's doing what it should do. It clicks, and connects the other pins for continuity, that's all.

With how far you are into troubleshooting, I'm sure these are silly questions, but - how are you verifying that you have no spark? I assume you're pulling and holding the plug threads against a known good ground, verified with 0 ohms against the negative battery terminal? I only ask because I've done plenty of advanced troubleshooting to find something simple that I've overlooked, before.

Also, after cranking a couple seconds, are you pulling a wet / gassy plug? Just to verify fuel delivery.

 

Yes plugs come out with gas after cranking. 

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