JakeRat88

No Crank No Start Condition 98 626 v6 AUTO

4 posts in this topic

Hello, I have been creeping these forums as a guest for some time. As this is my first post I just want to tell everyone thank you for the support i have indirectly gotten. I have been fix one problem to another and was finally able top get my disabled(she's deaf) sisters 626 running. -I had to replace the TPS and then the starter. --3 weeks later it would not start after she got off of work. ---SO i immediately replaced the starter since it was under warranty. Still no start, no crank.

This is where I am. ----Test battery for proper voltage = good. Cleaned posts and wire terminals. Still nothing.

At this point right now I have pulled the Relays OMRON KLG418821 but I cannot find anything online on how to test them with a multi-meter. I am looking for the OHM factor. Does anyone know? Does anyone have any other advice?

I really wish I could afford to take this to a mechanic and be done with it but being laid off from the oil patch money is extremelllllllllllly tight so I very very much appreciate the solid. Thanks again!

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There is one thin "trigger" wire that goes to a spade connector on the starter motor. Make sure the gearshift is in Park, remove the thin wire, then connect that spade terminal on the starter to any positive 12v source (the easiest is the thick terminal on the starter motor, using a screwdriver). The starter should then crank. If not, it's either the starter or a direct connection between starter and battery.

Next step, disconnect that trigger wire, and use a voltmeter to test for 12volts when a friend turns the ignition key to start.

That should help narrow it down.

Testing relays: when you use the battery to apply 12 volts across 2 of the terminals (the 2 between which there is low resistance) the resistance across the other 2 terminals should drop from infinite to zero. I think that's right.

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16 hours ago, NickR said:

There is one thin "trigger" wire that goes to a spade connector on the starter motor. Make sure the gearshift is in Park, remove the thin wire, then connect that spade terminal on the starter to any positive 12v source (the easiest is the thick terminal on the starter motor, using a screwdriver). The starter should then crank. If not, it's either the starter or a direct connection between starter and battery.

I don't like giving this advice as it is too easy for someone to either use a screwdriver that has a conductive handle or accidentally ground themselves on the body.

16 hours ago, NickR said:

Next step, disconnect that trigger wire, and use a voltmeter to test for 12volts when a friend turns the ignition key to start.

That should help narrow it down.

I would start with this advice.  Does the big wire have +12V all the time (measured to battery ground).  Disconnect the trigger, have friend in N or P put key to ON - should have 0V.  Put key to crank and hold it, should have +12V.  Now put multimeter on battery ground and other lead on starter housing, then starter bolts - should have continuity.

 

16 hours ago, NickR said:

Testing relays: when you use the battery to apply 12 volts across 2 of the terminals (the 2 between which there is low resistance) the resistance across the other 2 terminals should drop from infinite to zero. I think that's right.

Most relays have a diagram on them.  Yes you are correct, apply +12V and ground to the trigger side and the continuity on the triggered side drops to zero (or a very tiny number).  For continuity testing I just set my multimeter on the BEEP setting.  From the symptoms described, I am going to guess a bad or out of adjustment gear indicator switch...but definitely keep diagnosing and be sure before you throw more money at it.

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Hey guys still waiting on a pal to lend a hand. 

 

Does this change anything in the meantime? 

When I turn ignition on two things happen. The "TCS OFF" light comes on and I hear a buzzing sound coming from some where around the (throttle body?)/TPS sensor area.

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