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CB2 626 Auto to Manual Gearbox Conversion

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For any of you guys who have contemplated this conversion, here it is.


Hardware required:

1. Manual transmission  2. Clutch Master  3. Clutch Slave  4. Steel pipe and hose from clutch master to clutch slave  5. Complete Clutch Kit   6. Flywheel  7. Clutch and brake pedals with the longer pivot bolt, clutch pedal return spring, spacer and clutch push rod OR a complete pedal box(if you wish)  8. Gearstick, gearstick rubber insulation boots, console mounting bracket, centre console surround with outer boot.


The Little Things - that catch you out!

1. Gearbox cross member (5 speed), studs with rubber mounts and retaining washers (auto boxes are hard mounted to the floor pan)  Interestingly, the 4 speeds use the same gearbox crossmember as the auto.

2. Flywheel spigot/pilot/input shaft bearing (depending on what part of the world you live in)- P/No 6202 RS or ZZ

3. Flywheel retaining bolts - the auto ones are longer.

4. Brake/Clutch fluid

5. Gearbox oil

6. Wiring - for the reverse lights

7. Cable ties - to replace the tricky Mazda firewall triple pipe clamps as opposed to the double pipe clamps standard on the auto.

8. 5/16" fuel line and 2 hose clamps

9. Clutch slave push rod


Things you don't need:

1. Starter motor - they are the same auto or manual (Thank God!)

2. Drive shaft - as above.


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I am assuming most guys contemplating this conversion have some mechanical expertise, so I will not go into the absolute nitty gritty of removing the auto box, just keep it simple.

1. Disconnect the auto cooling lines to the radiator.


1.1 Remove the bolts holding the auto cooling pipe steel lines to the block.  If you completely disconnect them from the auto, you will drop tranny fluid everywhere!

1.2 Disconnect the high tension lead from the starter motor

1.3 Disconnect the 2 bolts holding the driveshaft centre support bearing, then the 4 bolts holding the driveshaft to the differential. Leave the driveshaft sitting in the back of the gearbox.

1.4 Disconnect the exhaust mounting brackets from the rear of the transmission and the bell housing.

1.5 Remove all the bolts from around the bellhousing.

1.6 Remove the steel vacuum line from the inlet manifold to the side of the auto.

1.7 Release and remove the lower inspection plate, and remove the 4 torque converter retaining bolts. (Sorry about the crappy pic!)




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Interior time:

1. Remove the T bar handle by loosening the lock nut below it, then screw the T handle off with the lock nut.

2. Remove the 2 screws holding the trim piece that covers in the handbrake lever and VERY CAREFULLY, spread the outer edges of the centre console to unclip it.  You force it, you will crack one or both!:(

3. Remove the 2 screws at the rear of the centre console in the flip lid storage compartment, and the 2 screws at the front of the centre console on either side. Disconnect the illumination light and then remove the centre console.

Now you will see this.  You are looking at the switch that controls starting in Park/Neutral, and the reverse lights.


4. Back outside underneath, release the linkage holding the T bar shifter to the selector linkages.

5. Remove the retaining screws and disconnect the 4 Pin plug. Then remove the shifter assembly.



6. Jack under the auto tranny to support it - they're a heavy little sucker.  Wriggle it free from the back of the block and.........Voila!!!!


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Makes it nice and easy if you have a  5sp sitting there ready to go!




Make sure you have the other crucial parts sitting there as well! New clutch master cylinder, clutch slave cylinder, clutch assembly and spigot bearing. Otherwise, this can add a great deal of time to your conversion, waiting for parts to arrive.:(



Install new spigot bearing and then fit the manual flywheel to the rear of the crankshaft.


Fit your clutch assembly.  I use a 1/2" drive extension and 10mm socket as my clutch aligning tool - never fails, and is the perfect length!


Bit of artistic license here, I didn't take a pic doing my 626, but here is a shot of my son's HB 929 fitting up an Exedy HD clutch, AND, the clutch was aligned using my "never fail" tool! 

Do not forget to fit the shifter fork and throwout bearing, otherwise Baby Jesus will cry! :P






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Pedal time:

Again, you do not need to replace the entire pedal box, all your require are the pedals, pivot bolt, clutch master push rod, and the clutch pedal return spring, which, is exactly the same as the brake pedal return spring.

1. Release the original pivot bolt and nut, and remove/discard.  The manual pedal pivot bolt is 200mm long.

2. Remove the brake pedal spring, then remove the circlip and pin from the end of the brake master rod clevis.  Remove the brake pedal and bin it!!!!

3. Remove the cover plate from the firewall, where the clutch master cylinder mounts to.  The holes are already there.  Once you have removed that plate, there is nothing stopping you from mounting the clutch master to the firewall.



4. Fit the manual brake pedal, then the support spacer, then your clutch pedal and refit the locknut and washer.  Make sure the clutch pushrod is aligned with the clutch master.

4.1 Swear and curse time when refitting the brake and clutch pedal return springs.  I find if you use some soft wire/rod like TIG filler rod, you can wrap that around the spring and it allows you some leverage when stretching and installling the springs back onto the pedals.



All going well, you will now have 3 pedals!:w00t:



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To finish this off this thread off:

I had spare S2 centre consoles lying around with good rubber shifter boots, so remove the auto cover plate and install the rubber boot.



Manual centre console.........done! :thumbsup:



Every time i got in the car, I knew the rubber boot was from a Series 2 and it annoyed me. I went to my favourite wrecking yard to see if maybe one of his wrecks still had the correct vinyl boot.

As luck would have it, two of the cars still had good boots.  I own both of them now.

I like this much much better, and, it is period correct!!!!:biggrin:



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Forgot to mention, i now average 520K per tank with 3-4L still in the tank when I fill her up.  Works out around 9.7L/100K - very happy with that! :biggrin:

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