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Rotated6_2

79 CB2 Sedan original.

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Well, I put a teaser up 2 weeks ago and I wasn't going to start a thread on this old girl, but I cannot help myself, she is such a nice old girl that, I have to share her.

As I currently have 9 pre 1983 Mazdas in my possession, and I am a huge Star Trek franchise fan, it only seemed fitting that I call her "Seven of Nine"! :P

I had been conversing with her previous owner (of approximately 4 months) on FB, giving him ideas where to find stuff, such as, a towbar.  (Might have a couple lying around collecting dust!:whistle:)

So she sat in the garage collecting dust.  In the meantime, the Go Kart bug had bitten him badly, and he needed cash to go racing.  He offered her to me and, with a lot of arm twisting to me - seriously,

I bought her.  I am SOOOOO GLAD that I did!!!!!!!:w00t::biggrin::thumbsup:

 

Specs are: 2.0L, 3 speed auto with aftermarket  air con fitted.  And for the Rotorheads out there, the AC pump is actually an Ogura Wankel, so that is as Rotary as this car gets!

 

As far as condition, the interior, engine bay and boot are beyond belief.  The outside is good with a few little surface dents and dings - just enough to give her character without being a complete eye sore!

The dents will be fixed as we go.  Anyway......... without further ado, here she is!

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The car jack has never been used - check it out!  I had to spray it with Penetrene to loosen it up from its holder in the boot!

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I don't know about you guys, but I get pretty excited by still seeing factory plating on engine bay components!:w00t:

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Slight rocker cover gasket leak but LOOK............no dreaded oil leak at the front of the head, below the distributor!  HAPPY DAYS!!!!!!!:biggrin:WP_20160916_12_59_08_Pro.jpg

 

 

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So, a few little things to fix up before going for her roadworthy, and a few things to add to her perfection. :biggrin:

1.  The original battery locating bracket was missing, as a much larger battery had been fitted.  So I modified an original 626 battery bracket to suit.

 

Much bigger battery!:thumbsup:

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An original bracket I had lying around, had definitely seen better days. The folded sections had all but corroded away.

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So I folded up new sections and re-welded them on to suit the current battery. I don't think these will corrode any time soon.  Then cut and shortened the upright threaded section by 25mm so that when the nut is tightened down, the battery is held securely.

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Bit of paint!

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Much better.

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Time to tidy up some wiring near the inlet manifold.  Cut the original wires and terminals off and made a nicer looking joiner for the reverse lights and the high tension lead.

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Much better!

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Time to fit bumper overriders.  To me, they just make a 626 look a little bit sexier!

Before:

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Although you can fit these without removing the bumper from the car, it is always good to check for rust - just in case.  I should not have been so surprised that this car is spotless.

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Check the condition of the front bumper - not bad for 37 years old!

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Overriders fitted.  Much better!!!!

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The exhaust was sounding not good.  I could hear it leaking while the car was idling.  So rather than being failed at roadworthy inspection time for a crappy exhaust, I thought I would have the offending item repaired or replaced.  Well, once the car went up on the hoist, it was replacement time.  I have never owned a car with so many patches on a system.  Obviously the car must have only done short trips so the condensation never got pushed out and rusted the exhaust.

Well, good excuse to put a slightly larger than standard, 1 3/4" freer flowing exhaust system consisting of a small front resonator and a 12 x 9 muffler just before the diff.

The exhaust now sounds a little beefier without being obnoxious.  I can't have it too grandpa spec!

 

The original exhaust.  I'll let the pictures do the talking.  I have NEVER seen silicon used to try and seal up an exhaust!:blink:

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New exhaust going on.

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Fitted in a digital clock this afternoon to replace the old non functioning analogue one. Ten minute job - I love the easy ones!

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UPDATE: 8th October - Factory AM/FM radio now fitted, and the missing Fresh air/Recirc knob, has been replaced.:smile:

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Where is the Rust?? I know that a bad word for the early 626's but I have not seen one with out any rust since the early 1990's

:drool:

Dan

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Wow, what a sweet addition to your collective you've got there. But has it assimilated the other cars yet? :P

 

I'm surprised that even those plastic map pockets (made of the brittlest plastic ever formulated in the 1970s) aren't cracked... it's as if a foot has never accidentally bumped into them multiple times in the middle of the night. *Ahem*

Some of those features are very interesting... My car's only got two lap belts for the outside passengers in the back and I don't have a battery holder like that (the battery's mounted differently). I think AM/FM radio was standard in the US, as was A/C... and I think auto-choke as well. I don't have a tach, though... whomever bought mine in 1980 didn't want to spring for that...

I like that croupier hat visor, very stylish... I am so jealous of that digital clock... heheheh...

How's the automatic on 7/9? I imagine it wouldn't like speeds over 100KPH but does it adapt?

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So, the better half was not happy with my name selection of new 626, saying I was taking too much "artistic licence" with the name.  Whodda thunk it?!!!!!

Well, given the colour of the car, it has come down to two names - Daisy or Buttercup. I can't decide!!!!

 

In the meantime, I have been fairly busy on her.  I have performed an electronic ignition conversion, as all Aussie spec CB2 626's only came with points distributors.  As much as points work well, all the 626s I have had, have had issues with either burning the points out or killing condensors.  So for anyone contemplating doing this conversion, here is a step by step instruction.  Conversion time - approx 1 hr.

 

Items required for conversion:

1. Electronic Distributor - rare as hens' teeth in Australia.  You can find them if you look hard, or you buy one from the US.

2. HEI Coil - any electronic igntion coil from 40000 - 50000V.  I like the oil filled ones for the old school look.

3. Wiring and connectors.

4. Spark Plugs - I am using NGK BP6ES set at 0.8mm plug gap.

5. Timing Light

OPTIONAL: New ignition leads, especially if you are not sure how old they are! :biggrin:

 

1. Before removing the old points distributor, manually rotate the engine until the rotor button is pointing to the number 1 plug lead position, AND, the 8 Degree BTDC timing mark on the crank pulley, should be lined up with the timing pointer.  Once you have done this, disconnect the vacuum advance hose, disconnect the suppressor and condenser wires, loosen and remove the 12mm nut, then gently wriggle the old distributor out.

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2. Time to disconnect wires and remove the old ballast resistor type ignition coil. The white ceramic ballast resistor is going in the bin.  If you are not sure when removing wires, then label them.  It is the biggest mistake home mechanics make, thinking they will remember where they go in half an hours time.  Pictures are good but they don't always get the fine detail. All the wires will be removed, BUT MOST IMPORTANT, is which terminal on the coil they go to - Positive or Negative.

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2.1  NOTE: Wiring colours may change but essentially the wires all perform the same function. The Black White(BW) wire being removed here will be refitted onto the Positive terminal of the new ignition coil.  The Black Yellow(BY) wire already disconnected to the Positive terminal will be refitted to the Positive terminal as well. The condenser and suppressor wires will be removed completely.  If alternator whine is experienced through the radio, then re-fit the suppressor.

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2.2 The Yellow Green(YG) wire being disconnected from the Negative terminal, is the tacho(RPM) wire.

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3. Install the new electronic distributor, make sure you line up the timing marks correctly prior to installation.

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4. Make a wiring adapter to connect the igniter back to the coil.  You can use moulded plugs (as I have done) or run individual insulated terminals.  If you are using a genuine Mitsubishi J105 igniter, it has the  -/+ and C (coil) and B (battery) moulded into it. The top terminal "-" or "C", goes to the Negative terminal on the coil.  The lower terminal "l" or "B" goes to the Positive terminal on the coil.

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4.1  Re-install the other original wires:

- the BY and BW wires back to the Positve terminal, so, you will have 3 wires connected to the Positive terminal.

- the YG wire back to the Negative terminal, so 2 wires at the Negative coil. (I have a third that is wired in conjunction with the AC)

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5. Tidy up and check/reset your timing.:thumbsup:

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I put Daisy in for her Roadworthy inspection on Wednesday 5th October. Almost got through unscathed, except for a transmission leak from behind the torque converter.  So I had to repair this in 7 days or I would have to re-submit my car for inspection, and pay more money.

SOLUTION: If auto box had to come out to fix the leak, then it wasn't going back in.  5 speed conversion about to happen. Cue the Rocky montage music!!!!:biggrin:

Refer to the How to Guide.

 

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Few other little mods/improvements since January:

1. Pin striping - I love the yellow but just needed something to set it off.  Talked to a mate who has done pin striping before, and away we went.  Done at home in my garage. Love the final result!!!

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I had a tyre de-laminate on the way to a Saturday Night Live car event.  It was my spare I had fitted only the weekend before.  It was an original Bridgestone RD 106 20+ years old that looked all but new - still had the little rubber sprigs on the tread face and even the paint stripes colour coding.  Just because it looks OK, doesn't mean it is!

Before:                                                                                                    After:

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Time for some new shoes, and might as well fit some new shocks at the same time.  I had noticed the rear shocks were manufactured in 1991, and the fronts were still the original "wet leg" type supplied from factory - they may even have been the originals.  Either way, I knew the shocks had to be replaced.

The CB2 626 came out with a funny tyre size originally - 185/70 x 13, when compared to all its other siblings, and back then, it was easy to find a huge range of 13" tyres with various profiles, to fit onto our rims.  Not so today, unfortunately!  Even tracking down the original size " off the shelf" requires you to wait a week!  Fortunately, I still have many connections in the tyre industry, as I used to sell tyre workshop equipment, and managed to track down some 205/60 x 13" tyres.  This size has all but disappeared - none of the big name manufacturers make this size any more, so you are left with brands ( in my mind), of dubious quality.

These babies look aggressive and will probably start making a whole lot of road noise (because they are a directional "V" tread), but they will do! Fitted them up at home.

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How the car looks now with them fitted - love that extra inch:

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The new front shock inserts and rear shocks, now fitted.:smile: 

A word of warning, however.  If you do go to change your struts, there are two types listed for our vehicles - one model suits up to CB2MS - 543XXX, and after that, the other part number.

Here is a visual picture of why - on the left (up to 543XXX), on the right (after 543XXX).  There is a 25mm difference in the housing height, so early model will not fit later model!

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I am really glad I replaced the rear shocks, there was no rebound left in either of them!

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Yeah, the 13 inch tyre struggle is real. I had to settle for 175/70's because they were made by a halfway (two-thirds way?) decent manufacturer. My car rode sooooo much better than on the spit & tar that was on before.

 

Next on my to-do list is the shocks, so thanks for this invaluable bit of information! My '80 is of the post CB2MS543000 variety.

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