Jump to content
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
vtails

2002 2.0L ENGINE REBUILD

Recommended Posts

   So I HAVE A 2002 2.0l that came from my daughters car that she totaled it had 111,000 miles I decided I would tear it down and pep it up a bit, I've been looking for engine spec's and have not been able to find anything on it, I just need some info on torq for the head rods and mains, also any one time use parts that I should replace. does anyone know of a web site that has any info on this. I did read some things about the length of the main bolts I didn't know they were a one time use. Or maybe a good detail book on this engine, that would have this info, I just rebuilt the trans and really spent some money on it and thought that I'd do the engine up and keep this for my daily drive for the rest of it's life. 

Also wanted to find some Tip's and Tricks to build some HP without spending a lot of money I am buying some higher compression pistons and having it balanced it has a FS9 head that I had ported and polished by a friend that works in the head shop. I was looking at the intake and it has one of the split ventures, I did keep the computer for the car but I didn't keep the wire harness so I don't think I'll use the intake for it and the rest of the sensors seem to be the same as my 99 so that shouldnt be a problem. But if anyone has any advice I really could use it. I am taking pictures as I go so I'll post them and any other info I come across.       

1999 Mazda 626.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The FS-DE is not gonna make a lot of power.  There are a few horsepower to be gained here and there, but realistically the best you can hope for is about 10 - 15 more hp.

You have a good head and getting a 3 angle valve job, cleaning up the ports a little, and matching the ports to the intake and exhaust manifolds is a good place to start.  The JDM FSH9 intake cam paired with a Corksport exhaust cam ( http://corksport.com/corksport-power-series-exhaust-camshaft-for-2-0l.html ) is the best cam combination.  I have a spare FSH9 intake cam I would be willing to sell.

Higher compression pistons are hard to come by.  There are no aftermarket ones that I know of.  The JDM FS-ZE pistons are supposedly 10:1 compression.  Dan Atkins as Atkins Rotary says he can get those.  You might hit him up.  If you found another source, let us know.  I would be interested to see whats out there.

There's some more power to be gained by playing with the ignition curve.  But, you won't be able to do that with the factory ECU.  I setup my FS-DE with a MicroSquirt ECU so I can play with ignition and fuel curves.  Like everything else related to this motor, the power increase is small.  I posted a thread on here about how to install this and get it running.

 

Lastly, there are some cheap Chinese made exhaust headers on Ebay for the FS-DE, fitment is problematic and it will take some custom work at a local muffler shop to get it fitted right.  While you are at it, add a fresh catalytic converter (or better yet none at all) with a 2.5" exhaust and free flowing style muffler.  Again, the power increase will be slight.  But, every little bit adds up after a while.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Now I need to buy parts ? I've looked at Ebay and other parts seller's I'd like to know if anyone has bought any parts like DNJ or NPR piston and rings. Rod and Main Bearing's what is a good brand, My crank and is still with in the spec's, stock bearing's in it still look new, I also took the oil pump apart it also is in spec, Also been looking at Head bolts and main bolts I'm not sure if the main bolts have to be replaced ? maybe someone here knows.  

I sent the block and the head with a friend to NC that works in the engine shop for one of the race car team's,I traded the work for work on his airplane . They line bored it, new freeze plug's and did a hone and deck. The head was ported and polished with all new guides and valve's, they also resurfaced it. The head work look's amazing I can tell he spent some time on it and gave me a flow chart. They cleaned up the intake to match the head.  The block was only .001 so I decided not to have it bored, I'm not going for big HP ( I think a Turbo would do best for that) I just wanted a good running engine this is my daily driver and gets parked for long periods at the airport.

       

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Check with Dan Atkins with Atkins rotary.  He's a frequent contributor to the forum.  He says he can get Mazda factory FS-ZE high compression pistons.  That is the best option worthy of the motor work you have done so far.

If you can't find the Mazda FS-ZE pistons, I'd suggest Wiseco pistons.  The only option there are factory 9:1 compression ratio.

Stick with your factory rods.  The only reason to buy new rods is if you plan on going turbo or your rods are out of spec.

You should plan to get some longer duration cams with some valve overlap to take advantage of the head work you have done.  You can then justify spending a little money on a header.  Without overlap in the cam timing, headers don't increase power at all.  The factory US spec cams have a very tame profile with little to no overlap.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

NPR is what Mazda has used for piston & rings as far back as 1970.. Last I checked I can still get the higher compression pistons..

Dan

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
19 hours ago, dan atkins said:

NPR is what Mazda has used for piston & rings as far back as 1970.. Last I checked I can still get the higher compression pistons..

Dan

 

These are what I've been looking for, I've done so much googling I can't remember if I found a set.  I'd like to just keep this car stock as I have a some other toy's I throw money (My Vtail in avatar ) It take's a lot of money from my budget, do you know of a place where I can buy the NPR pistons and ring's. I have been looking at ebay and asking about piston's and None have said any thing about the maker and the DNJ parts are made in China. Also another part that I have wondered about is the Head Gasket, is the multi layer better than the stock type ? something else that came to mind is if there was head bolt washers ? The engine was in great shape when I took it a part the spec's were good so I'm going with STD piston's and rod and main bearings which I still need to find a good set of, Thank you for the info on the piston's.    

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can get you OE Parts.. I will get you some prices in the next few days .. the gead gaskets I sell are Mazda oe what mazda installed so there wont be any questions later..

 

BTW my 01 626 2.0L (5Speed) just made it past the 200K mark with no issues. (Yet) hope it can make it another 100K.

Dan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I found only 1 place for NPR piston's Carid.com sp2004 priced at 32 bucks, don't know if this is a good price. How much for the head gasket,

Thats great your car did  200 my 626 only did about 100K and it dropped 2 cylinders and I noticed that the crank had about 1/16 of movement when I was putting in the seal . Guess it was a Bad day at factory. My 02 is still like new I wish that I never took it a part but it sat for 4-5 years in the hanger. I would like to get these parts soon, thanks for info. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  JUST VENTING

I should have never opened this engine up, I  should have bought the book sooner. I just read where I have to get all new Bolts for the Rod's the Main's the head the flex plate.  The cost of good or OEM bolts is probably 3 + hundred dollar's. I found ARP stud's but not sure where I would find the torque ? I talked to my friend in NC about the head He told me he was blown away when they went to get valve guide's $800.00 dollar's, $53 DOLLARS per giude I called and that's the price I was given.  A junkyard engine is looking  good . I found price for oem head bolts $16.91 oem rod bolts $13.24 main bolts $10.18 

So anyone have any idea's buy from china use the old one's ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Someone really ripped you off.

Flex plate bolts?  You mean the upper oil pan plate dohickey?  You don't need new bolts for that.

Go to RockAuto and get a set of Felpro head bolts for $22, Beck/Arnley Valve Guides for $2.14/ea, and Beck/Arnley valve stem seals for $1.98 and $3.36 ea for intake and exhaust side.  I mention Beck/Arnley because the specialize in buying out old OEM stock and reselling it.  Half the time I buy their parts, they are actually Mazda parts.

I don't have a cheap source for rod and main bolts.  The ARP sets ain't cheap.  But, they are very high quality.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

   I'm back from charlotte Nc I had to do annual on my friend's plane for the engine work. I'm so deep into money on this engine,I think a person could do this cheaper than what I've done,I don't want anyone running away from doing there engine from my experience,  if you do your engine take Pic's and do it all at one time, Here is what I've done so far, I didn't want to pay the price for  OEM HB bolt's (16 bucks a bolt ) so I bought the arp head bolt's and bought a 10 oz bottle of there torque lube, I got them for $105.00, I also got new main bolts from Cross over auto for $55.00, I didn't find any deals on rod bolt's(13 buck's ea) so I got them from Trasco not sure on spelling but they are on ebay and sell a lot of OEM part's for Mazda. RacerX, There's 6 of them, The bolt's I was talking about were for the starter flex plate . This will be a long post! Now I'm not sure of the Main cap's I sent them in a box which was a stupid thing to do! I didn't mark them so I'm hoping They looked them up, they are marked in this order (A-E-L-4-C )  Hayne's manual which is not the best info, at this point I'm not real sure about the main bolt's and rod bolts, if they are TTY bolt's then it's a must to replace. There is so little info !, I got the NPR piston's and ring's from Carid its the only place I could find ? I started this project 5 years ago, that's the reason "I'm having some issues" with how it came apart which was a stupid idea. I have a aircraft engine shop and they are more like a big VW engine and simpler the block is 2 half's and the head and cylinder are 1 piece. This is the first car engine I've done in 30 year's !  Now I need a head gasket I'm hoping to get for a good price, I found the Best gray silicone, I get from the Chevy dealer here it's $14.00 a tube and is smaller so I bought 3 of them, I've used it before and I swear by it gas doesn't loosen it up!

  I will take some Pic's and post them as I put this engine together. Thank 's for the info on those part's but I just got tired of looking and just bought what I thought would be best?, I was hoping for more input but it doesn't look like a lot of people have had to do there engine, yea I know I could have done this so much cheaper, I have a valve machine and seat cutter and could have sent the block to a machine shop in K town, we only have 2 here in this small town I live in and one is closed and the other keeps your stuff for months. I'm going home I'll be back with what's happened let's hope this goes smooth ! But I'd still like to hear from more people about parts deal's or anything they have done with there engine...         

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 8/31/2016 at 3:22 PM, mcdanielsamuel said:

Thanks for the info.  I may not tear into my engine now.

Please don't let my experience change your mind as I've said I started taking mine apart 5 years ago and didn't think I would ever have to build it, I just wanted the FS9 head off of it to put on my car but I didn't get around to it. You can do it much cheaper than I did. I'm not really sure a person needs to have OEM parts to replace in the engine.. I think the head is the biggest cost. I did find a rebuilt head with cams shipped free for $350.00 but you could find someone to do a valve job for lot less. We don't have any good machine shops here so that's why I did a deal with my friend but that was a big mistake. I could have done the valve job myself and the block I could have cleaned and done the hone myself!. I don't think my block needed a line bore and decking! and the parts depending on what it needs could be bought for a lot less than what I have spent . I just like my 626 and I've had it since it was new! I will keep it now till I die or someone runs into me.      

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, vtails said:

   I'm back from charlotte Nc I had to do annual on my friend's plane for the engine work. I'm so deep into money on this engine,I think a person could do this cheaper than what I've done,I don't want anyone running away from doing there engine from my experience,  if you do your engine take Pic's and do it all at one time, Here is what I've done so far, I didn't want to pay the price for  OEM HB bolt's (16 bucks a bolt ) so I bought the arp head bolt's and bought a 10 oz bottle of there torque lube, I got them for $105.00, I also got new main bolts from Cross over auto for $55.00, I didn't find any deals on rod bolt's(13 buck's ea) so I got them from Trasco not sure on spelling but they are on ebay and sell a lot of OEM part's for Mazda. RacerX, There's 6 of them, The bolt's I was talking about were for the starter flex plate . This will be a long post! Now I'm not sure of the Main cap's I sent them in a box which was a stupid thing to do! I didn't mark them so I'm hoping They looked them up, they are marked in this order (A-E-L-4-C )  Hayne's manual which is not the best info, at this point I'm not real sure about the main bolt's and rod bolts, if they are TTY bolt's then it's a must to replace. There is so little info !, I got the NPR piston's and ring's from Carid its the only place I could find ? I started this project 5 years ago, that's the reason "I'm having some issues" with how it came apart which was a stupid idea. I have a aircraft engine shop and they are more like a big VW engine and simpler the block is 2 half's and the head and cylinder are 1 piece. This is the first car engine I've done in 30 year's !  Now I need a head gasket I'm hoping to get for a good price, I found the Best gray silicone, I get from the Chevy dealer here it's $14.00 a tube and is smaller so I bought 3 of them, I've used it before and I swear by it gas doesn't loosen it up!

  I will take some Pic's and post them as I put this engine together. Thank 's for the info on those part's but I just got tired of looking and just bought what I thought would be best?, I was hoping for more input but it doesn't look like a lot of people have had to do there engine, yea I know I could have done this so much cheaper, I have a valve machine and seat cutter and could have sent the block to a machine shop in K town, we only have 2 here in this small town I live in and one is closed and the other keeps your stuff for months. I'm going home I'll be back with what's happened let's hope this goes smooth ! But I'd still like to hear from more people about parts deal's or anything they have done with there engine...         

Ah, the "flywheel" for the automatic transmission, I am used to MT setups and proper flywheels.

I re-use my flywheel bolts and never had a problem. Not sure where to buy those if I decided to do so. I think I looked into it once and came up empty handed. McMaster-Carr is where I would start looking for something like that. You need to make sure you get the right grade of bolt. I don't recall what those are. I know I replaced my pressure plate bolts with allen head bolts from them once upon a time.

You'll be happy with the ARP head studs/bolts.

Double check that your oil squirters survived the engine machine work intact.  Also, double check that they clear the pistons once you assemble to lower end.  The clearance for those is pretty tight. If one is broken, you can still get them from Mazda for about $20/ea.

I'm kinda partial to FelPro gaskets. I used their head bolts, head gasket, intake, and water pump gasket in my last assembly.  Sadly, that was the JDM motor that had problems with #3 cylinder.  The piston seized in less than 5 laps of run in time.  So, I can't comment on how the bolts and gasket would do longer term.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well things are not going the way I thought they should!!!!! I'm glad I came back to see if I could get some info, Oil squirters what oil squirter's ? I guess I should have bought the hayne's manual but they wanted 30 bucks and the last time I bought one it was not  a lot of info for what I wanted. I went to Library and took some info out of the one . I thought I'd drop the crank in and it went bad, I have 2 inch pound torque wrenches that only go to 150, I have 2 utica's one goes to 250 ftlb and the other goes to 600 ftlb for prop's, but as I put the crank in the main caps don't line up right as you tap the cap in, it be to one side or the other so I  took a screw driver and pushed them to the center of the block journal but I don't remember if the bearing tang's go on the same side or opposite . And now finding out about the oil squirter's where should they be? I didn't have any left over parts in the crate .At this point I'm ready to put this into boxes and scrape the car! I haven't seen an engine with main caps that were hard to install and the main bolt's don't have any thing to help line them up they are straight all the way down. Most bolt's have a bigger part under the head to fill the bolt hole up that would help line the cap's up ! I'm at a loss here, I haven't  had to do a car engine in 30 years , Built gas turbine's, jet engine's that have a thousand parts and remembered where they go, but this 4 cylinder has me beat.   I was hoping someone had done one here and could offer some answers I guess this isn't a popular engine to do. The book said there were arrow's on the cap's not on mine! well I'll come back tonight see if someone can help me out here. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The oil squirter/jets are located at the bottom of each cylinder.  They look like this from the bottom side of the block with the crank and pistons removed.

Jul01_0002-1.jpg

If the tip is broken off, you'll have to the replace the squirter/jet or block it off. They are pressed in. To replace, I drilled and tapped one then used a slide hammer to pop it out. Some of the Protege guys block these off to improve oil pressure. Wiseco pistons are supposedly designed to lube the upper rod bearing/wrist pin even if you delete these. I learned this from a SCCA racer that worked with Wiseco to build his MazdaSpeed Protege that he campaigned for years. Not sure if you can expect other pistons to lube the upper rod bearing properly without them.

I do know from personal experience that they can break off due to contact with a piston.  If a tip is broken off, the motor will have low oil pressure.  The jet on the #3 cylinder in one of my motors broke and that motor ran about 5 psi to max 40 psi oil pressure once the motor came up to temp.  The motor ran a couple races that way.  But, it made me nervous as hell.  I eventually swapped out that short block.

You'll find more expertise building FS-DE motors on the Protege forums.  Those guys invest more in their motors and turbo setups.  The average 2.0L 626 just isn't sexy enough or worth enough to justify the cost/effort to rebuild the motor.

These motors are pretty simple. But, assembling any motor without a factory service manual is likely to lead to problems.  Look here for online links to several different factory service manuals for the 626 and other Mazdas.

http://www.pmx626.info/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good info here!  Ya not too many rebuilds going on here on the 626 2.0l.  I need to get around to pulling my engine and seeing what is really going on.  Also, I need to ask around for a machine shop that is quality in my neck of the woods.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I got the oil jets back from my friend , I don't know how they got them out without drilling them but were talking a very Big time NASCAR shop for some big racer's, I think that what ever they want company's are willing to fork over for advertising. He sent oil and spark plugs, I'm sure that these came from sponsor's!,,, he  beat the pants off me for the trade we made. So I've been travailing around working so here's what I have gotten done, I looked for the info for how to aim the oil jet's and ended up just pointing them at the wrist pin and some needed to be bent but I decided to leave them alone I checked the clearance to piston and it's about 1/8" so that should work but I think an Oil pressure gauge would be great idea! I had gotten a 10oz bottle of ARP Lube that was over kill !!! The stuff makes a mess and you don't need much, I think you could get couple 1.69oz tubes and that would be enough. I an going to put the head on today , and start hanging the ALT-power steering pump AC all the small stuff takes as much time as building lower end. I'm glad I kept all the parts off my daughters car. The problem I had lining up the main cap's I took crank out and got them set up (they can move 1/16 -3/32 because of the bolt diameter) and that would be very bad in the long run, I built a girdle to place over the crank and then drop main caps in. I don't know why the bolt holes are so big as compared to the bolts or maybe a wider bearing or a larger bolt diameter or pins like the rods have! I used the silicone I got from Chevy dealer to seal main girdle and oil pan. So I'm hoping that I can get engine in next week and be done with this project. I imagine this would have been more fun if I didn't have  so many issue's . I think the big thing to building a 2.0L is the oil jets the rest is basic. Maybe someone should write a SIMPLE guide to putting one together and the things you should look out for and the SPEC'S so you don't have to buy the Hayne's manual .

   On a lighter note I had someone from the airport give me an engine from a Protege 2.0L, it's a newer one they didn't know what year but it has the exhaust on the rear and also gave me a FS9 head (no cams) but has all the valves and springs in it. I think the Protege engine would have been the engine to use because of the design. I could go to Pull a part and get computer and wire harness for cheap, but for now I'm just hoping the engine runs good , I wish I could start this while on the floor to see if it was going to leak oil it be easy to fix now then in car, I will put up some pic's when I get done and my grandson decided he wanted to paint it RED I don't care he's a good kid and helps me when ever I call him so what ever he wants I'm happy to give him.

  So I'll be back in a few day's I have to go back to AZ and finish some work (105*)         

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have no clue how they got those oil squirters out without drilling them.  I wouldn't worry too much about aiming them precisely.  It sounds like you have the clearance, that's the most important thing.

That Protege motor would have been a good lower end to rebuild.  It has a forged crank instead of the cast crank in your motor.  Not a big deal since this motor isn't gonna make a lot of power anyway.

It sounds like the motor is coming together pretty well.  Good luck with it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I started looking for Head gasket, I looked at all of them and finally ordered a Mazda gasket, I was going to get from dealer here but found it cheaper on Ebay($66.00) and that was cheaper than ones that I looked at Auto Zone and Advance Auto and NAPA and others. I also was able to borrow an engine stand. I didn't get the O-rings in the gasket set for thermostat housing and also for the Temp sender on the back of the head. On the head gasket I did a 30-60-90lbs, I think that you could use even a cheap head gasket with block, head decked and studs as long as it had the combustion sealing ring many I looked at like Fel Pro didn't have that. I was lucky I kept all the brackets for the Alternator, AC, Power steering pump, but I still had to look at my car to see how all the brackets went!! It's been 6-7 years since I took it apart. I with the help of my brother inlaw built a girdle for aliening my main caps, I could move them back and forth about a 1/16" so that helped I don't know why they didn't drop in the block where they should be. Next I found a small hole in the crank and started picking at it and the side of counter weight opened up so I had to trim it , at the factory they drilled the holes right on the edge on a lot of them. See pic. The rest of the build went ok , I didn't install cams yet since I haven't put timing belt in yet. There is still a lot of small things to do hose's and thermostat, I wish that I had kept the engine mounts and I hope that I can pull the engine with everything still on it. I did rebuild the tran's a couple months ago so thats all good. I did rotate the engine to see how good the compression is and with the valves all closed it's pretty good. I also took 2 vales out to see what his valve job looked like and it's dead on I lapped them, he said they don't lap valves as it could leave grit behind and I can go with that as I don't lap valves when doing a valve job on aircraft cylinders. I chucked them up in drill press and wiped them down and it took a bit of the black nitrite off the intake with scotch bite so I stopped that. I'm sure they will beat the seat in after I fire it up. They have a SERDI valve machine so they come out nice. I am Happy this peoject is about done now I need to paint the car and put shocks on and I like to get disk brakes for the back cause this car has never stopped very good and I have replaced everything master & wheel cylinders drums and disk,  no ABS. So here's some other.pic's I took The intake is something that I need some ADVICE on it is a VICS I think it has butterfly's at the bottom, I could take them out and plug the holes with some small freeze plugs the air between cylinders is joined I guess to help the volume overlap like they do on cams. Or I could clean up my org. ( I'm tried of cleaning parts it's a real job!) I've read that Mazda had to do a lot of rebuilds because the screws in butterfly's coming out ! I still have the computer for the 02 but I didn't keep the wire harness, I could go to pull a part and take one out but I'm not sure it would be worth while, and be a lot work! So I hope next week to get this in the car next week!  20160928_171335_resized.jpg20160927_184042_resized.jpg   20160921_125758_resized.jpg20160928_171603_resized.jpg   20160918_153656_resized.jpg   20160903_191759_resized.jpg  20160903_103358_resized.jpg     20160921_125701_resized.jpg  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I wanted to talk about doing a valve job, if you use your valves and cut seats you will need to check your valve clearance. before you put the head together mark each valve where it goes and put a bucket and disk to check it I used .010 , you can save yourself some Money by cutting the top of the valve to get your clearance  this way your not buying disks. I got ahead of myself and didn't do this till I already had the head on but I had about 20 extra disk and was able to get them right. You could also have the disks cut on a valve grinder with a special attachment. If you do this remember to put the cut side down because you take the hard face of ! ,you could have them sent off to have them Nitrided but that may be expensive, I always have aircraft parts sent for nitriding so I can though in some extra parts. This should keep you from buying disks from Ford or Mazda, The parts person told me that they come in a pack of 4 and they were all the same thickness, which doesn't make sense to me, it seems that you should be able to buy them in different sizes one or two as needed ! There probably is a supply house that does sell them one ay a time in different sizes but not where I live. I will look and see if I can find someone and post it if I do.        

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is a very good point. The valve shims for the FS-DE (I forget the diameter) are very difficult to find in a wide variety of thicknesses. I never found a satisfactory source. They are expensive and rather limited from Mazda and Ford as well. I agree with your suggestion to cut/grind the valve tip to maintain the clearance.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can get them from my local machine shop.  Any where that does head rebuilds routinely should have them laying around like poker chips on the floor.  Make friends with your local machinist.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know the owner of one of the two shops in town and he doesn't do anything but small block Chevy and Ford's he's the one that gave me another FS9 head. The other shop is closed for a while his wife passd away. I've been looking on line I have only found one seller but they are 3.338mms which I can't use. I need about 8 different thicknesses, I've got the exhaust side but need to do intake and I might have 2-3 that will work so the number might be more like 5-6. I'll have do some work on it tomorrow. I'll get back to you. Sometimes small towns are nice but I have to go to kTown  to get almost everything I need and that hasn't been good lately not even the big NAPA shop has anything. I have friends at the Ford dealer but they can't get them except 4 of the same size. The Mazda dealer here in town has to order every part I've bought and it takes 3 days to week or more. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, RacerX said:

This is a very good point. The valve shims for the FS-DE (I forget the diameter) are very difficult to find in a wide variety of thicknesses. I never found a satisfactory source. They are expensive and rather limited from Mazda and Ford as well. I agree with your suggestion to cut/grind the valve tip to maintain the clearance.

I was going to buy the disk holder but it won't work on my Neway valve cutter and it cost about $65.00 , need a stone valve machine to use it I thought about taking the head off but it took 2 weeks to get mazda head gasket. At this point I just need a few. I called a Race engine shop about doing the shims but he said it would kill the cams, I tried to tell him that you put the cut side down but he just didn't get it oh well. I should have thought about this before I put the head on but I forgot about this as I don't build car engines I do simple aircraft engines that haven't changed in a 100 years! They are big VW engines. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...