motomike33y

Another crank, no start issue

11 posts in this topic

Wife's 626 quit when she slammed on the brakes to avoid an inattentive person crossing the road from their mailbox.  Crank but no start.  she had it towed to a local shop, who indicated that the timing belt broke, and there was no compression.  I hauled it home, and ordered a timing belt after reading up on the forum.  took off the ps pump and valve cover, and discovered the timing belt was intact.  I then took out the plugs and checked the timing-I and E lined up when the far cylinder(#1) was at top dead center.  Looking for any suggestions before I reassemble or take things further apart. 

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I discovered the plug markings were backward, so I ws on #4, but #1 should also be at tdc.  Not sure where it lines up with the crank mark as I still have the bottom shield on

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With a crank no-start always begin with a spark test and fuel pressure test.  If they told you the timing belt was broken and it's not then that calls into question their claims of no compression too.  That means you should do a compression test and see if there is actually compression.  Did they give you a compression test result with compression numbers for each cylinder?  Sounds like they were just guessing and didn't actually do any kind of diagnostics.  If you paid for that diagnostic I would try to get my money back or request proof.  Let us know how the results go and we'll be able to lead you down the right diagnostic path.  spark test, fuel pressure test, compression test.

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no copies of anything, so I'm not sure they ran compression test-I doubted their info since the engine is non-interference, and didn't bother to do my own compression test-I'll have a chance to work on it more next week so I'll check compression and spark before I start to reassemble things.

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got compression tester and checked cylinders, 60-15-30-30.  from some of the other threads, this sounds like maybe it jumped time, but I'll have to dismantle things further to see the timing mark on the crank pulley.  I thought I and E were supposed to line up at TDC-which they did with a screwdriver down the plug hole in #1, but maybe there is something I'm missing?

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Had a couple other projects to finish(clutch in new beetle and rebuilt heads/water pump/timing belt in Subaru) so moved Mazda into pole barn and got crank pulley and guard off.  Timing appears to be lined up.  Have to check distributer and will probably replace tensioner spring, although it is new style and looks ok in place.  Any suggestions before I throw up my hands and start putting things back together?  Starter apparently died in the interim as I had to make a tool to take crank bolt out.

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Took off distributer cap and it appears to be lined up with #1 for firing.  Still want to loosen tensioner pulley and play with it to evaluate cam timing.  All indications are that some other calamity than jumping time caused the sudden no-start problem

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Those compression figures are so weird. I can't get past that. Does it stumble at all, or just no firing whatsoever?

If your compression test is showing crazy numbers, and you can verify that your marks all line up properly, then it's gotta be head related. I would re-do that test to make sure.

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So now the starter isn't working-I had to devise a tool to hold the crank pulley.  Distributer appears to be lined up right.  Timing appears spot on, tensioner spring looks like new.  I'm going to put things back together, and double check as I go.  Doesn't make sense that sudden stop would do away with compression (car was starting and running without problem) unless timing jumped-which it shows no sign of. May have to get new starter if doesn't heal as I reassemble it.  Welcome any ideas about root cause 

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Starter: Try to tap the solenoid (small part) with a drift bar and hammer, maybe it's just a stuck solenoid.

Fuel: Loosen the fuel rail test bolt (top / passenger side - think it's 17mm?) just a bit and turn key on (but do NOT crank) - should spit some fuel out around the bolt showing that fuel pump is working. (Make sure you tighten the bolt back down afterward, of course)

Spark: Pop the distributor cap off, unplug both connections at the distributor, and make sure the rotor turns when you turn the crank. Then check coil windings by following the instructions found here: https://manuals.co/workshop/mazda/626/mazda-626-1993-2001-workshop-manual-haynes/5528396/155#pf9b

Compression: If it doesn't fire at all, then it's not a compression issue.

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