popsy626

starting problems on my '82 626

6 posts in this topic

It has happened before but today i went to start the mazda 2.0l ma engine and it cranks fine but wont start. I have done all the usual tests for fuel (no problems) and spark. I found im not getting any spark to the plugs so ive checked the dizzy cap. And took out the dizzy completly to tare it down. In the meantime i was told by a friend to check if the coil lead has spark. Which it didnt. Now my predicament is. Is it the coil buggered up or could it be the wiring. Was working ok 2 days ago. And now that ive taken the dizzy out ive put the engine at top dead center and put the dizzy back in with location markings facing up. Have i now stuffed the timing as the bolt allows you to spin the distributor to adjust it. Or will it work in any position. Im worried if i buy a new coil i still wont get it started.

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Always remember - ignition, spark and fuel.

Were you getting power to the coil?  You can check this just by turning the ignition to the on position, and use a test light or multimeter to see if there is power at the positive terminal of the coil. 

Power to coil is good, then check coil, leads, cap, rotor button, points.  Can sometimes be the fusible link near the battery karking it, causing this problem.

Spark is good, then check carby is getting fuel.

 

The distributor has a timing mark on the casing and dimple on the rotating shaft.  Line these two up to re-install the distributor.  The rotor button roughly points to the 10 O'clock position when installed.

If you have been rotating the motor and are not sure where the timing is, simple check is to remove No 1 spark plug, rotate the crank to the timing mark, and check where the piston is by using a long screw driver.  If the piston is at the top of its stroke, the screwdriver will touch it very quickly.  If you are 180 degrees out, the screwdriver will go into the bore much deeper.

 

Once you have the piston in the right spot,  you can install the " timing marks aligned" distributor.  Then, if you have not played with the points gap, you should be able to fire it up and re-check the timing - points gap and dwell.

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Power to the coil is good coz i did a jump straight from the battery and still same problem. But no spark from the coil to dizzy. Leads r good plugs are good. Dizzy cap is worn but would it just stop like that if it was a part deteriorating?. 

I can find top dead center but does that indicate piston 1 being at full stroke or? And the adjuster bolt holding the dizzy in. Is that my timing adjustment? As i dont have a timing light, is there a default pisition for the adjustment. When i took it off it was roughly in the middle. 

I replaced the points gap mech with new 1 so i did fiddle with it. Is there a specific way it gas to go on. I know it has adjustment but how long is the contact supposed to be open for. I dnt have a feeler guage so i might have to buy one 

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Ouch, you are going to learn like most of us had to - with points distributors, trial and error! :blink:

If you are going to keep you 626, then you are really going to need a 626 manual (there are a bazillion of them on ebay), good timing light - preferably with a Dwell function on it, and feeler gauges(handy).  Oh, and a 12V test light is really handy as well!

This is how some of us remember the 4 stroke cycle - suck-push-bang-blow.  This translates to Intake-Compression-Expansion-Exhaust

Piston as close to top as possible on the compression stroke NOT exhaust while watching the timing mark on the crank pulley.  If you go past the mark, then rotate crank twice to get you back to compression stroke again.   This is why the adjuster on the distributor is slotted, to allow timing adjustment.

Points have two basic adjustments:

1. When to open and close - this is controlled by the rounded corners (cam) of the distributor shaft rotating past the points arm to open and close them.   This is timing.

2. How wide/long the points are open (gap) - this is controlled by the larger screw hole on one side of the points base plate.  This is dwell

 

With a test light, you can set the timing statically (engine not running).

1. Rotate crank to line up the timing mark on the compression stroke.

2. Install your dissy - remember the rotor button should roughly be pointing at 10 O'clock.  Lightly nip the lock nut up.

3. Grab your test light - put the clip on a good earth.  i normally use the strut mounting bolts - they're nice and handy.

4. Put the test light probe onto the negative (-) terminal of the ignition coil.

5. Switch the ignition to the ON position, not ACC (you shake your head, I have seen people do it! :rolleyes:) - there should now be power at the coil.

6. Loosen the lock nut and rotate the distributor clockwise until the test light goes off.  Almost there!

7. Now rotate the distributor anti clockwise until the test light just turns on.  Stop, hold and tighten the lock nut into position.

8. Turn the ignition off and put the high tension lead back in.  Timing set.

 

Now, you should be able to set your points gap! :thumbsup:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Yay i finally got it started. Was the coil and i had the timing a bit messed up. Dam thing backfired n blew out my muffler lol but at least i got it running. Thanks for the help

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