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plejmo

626 Coupe Saved From The Crusher

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So, I'm new on here, and I thought I'd present my project, a 1990 626 coupe, that I kinda saved from getting crushed. It was my girlfriends brothers car, but after damaging the exhaust and a few other flaws, he parked the car behind his parents garage. The car was parked there for three years before I was asked if I could help transport it to be crushed. When I saw pictures of it, I knew it was my new project car. And being that money's tight right now, a free project car was a blessing. 

The first thing I did, was to get it on a trailer, and take it to work. Then it was time to check for rust, I crossed my fingers and guess what, it was clean! Not rust free of course, but hey, it's a 25 year old car that stood near the ocean for 3 years, it's as rust free as it can possibly be. 

List of what's done:

-tear out the tasteless xenon kits
-change the sunroof, as the old one was rusted out.

-change the rear lights, just to get through MOT
-fixed the exhaust, it was pretty bad, and since the bend over the rear axle was already 2,5" I went with 2,5" from the flexpipe and back. It's still not done, need to move the muffler a bit more forward and add another one, to get the sound where I want it.
-changed the fluids, all except the transmission oil, that's on the list of things to do.
-fixed the rust on the boot lid, temporarily, going to paint the whole thing with the right color later on. Hey, it's better than rust.

that's what i remember from the top of my head. 

A few photos never hurt no one right?

 

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post-34287-0-39327100-1436735337_thumb.j

 

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Oh, and can someone tell me what this is? 

post-34287-0-61532300-1436735648_thumb.j

So, that's it for now, what do you guys think?

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Looks good.. I have saved a few Mazda from a crusher over the years so I can feel your joy when you prolong the death of a good car (Or truck)..

Nice find if you need any parts let me know as I have helped lots on here with NOS parts.. Heck I just shipped out a box of MX6 Parts (New & Used) last week to a guy in the Netherlands..

 

 

Also that switch is eithyer the back up (the ones that turnes on the lights) or the neutral switch

 

Dan

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If I need parts.. Well, the list is getting longer as I wrench on the thing. Saturday I found out why the guy at the dealership told me to buy the sway bar links as complete parts, instead of just the bushings. They are long gone! I managed to get one of the rears off, but the other side demands the angle grinder. It wouldn't have been so annoying if I hadn't ordered the bushings already. You see, I found that I could get poly bushings for less than the complete links with rubber bushings on ebay. Bad idea that.. 

I also discovered the hole in the sway bar itself is grind out by the bolt over time. So ideally I would replace that too, only problem is that my budget doesn't allow for much right now. I'll stick to what NEEDS to be done for now, and fix the rest when I can afford it.

I got some sachs supertouring shocks for the rear, for about 30 bucks a piece (new old stock). But the front shocks looks like they've seen better days, so I'll probably wont get them through MOT. 

Also, since the last owner installed HID xenon kits on the headlights, he broke off the retainer for the separate high beems, and I have a hard time getting them back into place. The easiest would be to replace them, but for now, I'm thinking about gluing the bulbs in with tec7, until I can afford new ones. 

There's also some things requiring my attention in the engine bay, but I'll get back to that, with a couple of pics at a later date.

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Why would anyone send that car to the crusher it looks pretty darn good to me.  That switch is the neutral safety switch for the manual transmission.  Allows the ECU to know when the car is in neutral.  It's a physical plunger style on/off switch, very basic on/off switch.  Looking forward to reading more updates and seeing more pictures.  Congratulations on purchasing a 626!

 

Here's a video that shows the reverse switch.  It functions identically to the neutral safety switch and in some models is the same exact part #.  This will give you a really good idea of how it works electrically and physically.  Keep in mind the video is of my 1995 which is a completely different model but the switch is still almost identical to yours.

 

https://youtu.be/RHg3cMR-_Ko?t=11m42s

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It was parked, and the owner was going to fix it, but he lost interest, which is why it stood for 3 years. Why would you need a neutral switch on a manual gearbox, makes no sense to me  :huh:. But then it's not really needed? Or will the ECU run loco without it? 

I'll post up more photos as soon as I get to wrench some more on it, I know I'll be asking you guys about a few vacuum lines that's capped off  :P 

 

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So, today after work, I went to the scrapyard, and guess what? A 88-92 mazda 626 hatchback! With nice headlights, gray grill (I kinda want to try that, just to see if I like it) gear knob that probably isn't sticky as the one that was in mine (was, it's changed for a fake momo gear knob, that I hacked to see if I could get the shift boot to hold on to it), a nice shift boot (mine's not very nice), and a original steering wheel. There's currently a Dino steering wheel in mine, which is nice but wouldn't go through the MOT. Anyone got any tips on what to look for while I'm there? The plan is to go gather the parts tomorrow.

And I got some bushings today:

post-34287-0-88635300-1436808668_thumb.j

To bad I still need to buy new links though.

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After watching the reverse light switch video you can see how the switch works physically.  It's just a plunger on/off switch.  In the case of the NSS it lets the ECU know when the transmission is in neutral.  In the case of the reverse light switch it tells the ECU when the transmission is in reverse.  Those are the only 2 gear positions that are reported with stand-alone physical switches.

 

Neutral safety switch is for engine/trans mechanical safety due to load calculation and gear/fuel relationship.  Let's the engine know when you are in neutral free wheeling for example.  Has to do with the ECU making load calculations for fuel and emissions.  Physically it doesn't do anything other than let the ECU know when the transmission is in neutral, it's an on/off switch triggered when you go in or out of neutral (no engine braking effect and decel).  You can run without it but load calculations and fuel maps won't be optimized when in neutral, (starting sequence or coming to a stop sign for example).  The loss in MPG is so small it's not worth mentioning.  The engine/trans is better off with it working.  If it's broken, fix it.

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Anyone got any tips on what to look for while I'm there? The plan is to go gather the parts tomorrow.

You mentioned your sway bar was in rough shape, it's always worth checking if the junkyard one looks better. If it's a cheap DIY yard, check the price of the taillights. I know you've already replaced them, but for the right price spares can be handy. Still assuming DIY, depending on how your interior is, misc interior parts can be handy - better visors (mine were falling apart), trim that isn't cracked, etc. That's all probably low priority, but if you have interior parts you want to replace, it'll be far cheaper than if you have to hit ebay or a traditional junkyard.

If you have the smaller alternator (3 bolts), you can check of it's got the larger alternator (4 bolts). I read that autos and GTs had the larger alt, but I can't personally say. Should be a simple swap, hardly mandatory but doesn't hurt.

As for a neutral switch on a manual trans, it could also be used to turn off cruise control if it comes out of gear, as a backup if the clutch switch isn't hit. I have no clue if the 626 uses it for this (never tested in my 95), but it's a theoretical good use for one.

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So it'll run better at idle, and generally be happier with the switch working. Then it's worth fixing it. Thanks for the info!

Yeah, I was thinking about switching that sway bar, hopefully they can lift it on the forklift for me, that way I can get that switch too  :P 
I just had a quick peek, but it seems that seats and such was more abused then what I have, but I'll check if there's anything worth keeping as spares. Since it's a 2,2l, I'm considering taking the intake, and valve cover. That way I can polish them, without letting the engine internals collect dust.

As I mentioned, I have a few vacuum lines in the engine bay that's just plugged, thought I'd might take a look where they are supposed to go, and take them off, as mine is cut. Every part I can reuse from that hatch is a part I don't have to buy. To be honest, I'd like to rip out the engine and trans, just to keep it as a spare. Unfortunately I don't have anywhere to store it. 

I'll be sure to snap some photos while at the junkyard  :smile:

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Turbo or Non-Turbo.  Good to put that in your specs since there are separate sections in the WSM for turbo and non-turbo.  Helps me to help you look up diagrams and procedures.  In the case of the NSS though it will be the same for both variants.

 

4A-093.jpg

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So, I didn't get to go picking parts yesterday. You see, this isn't really a car junkyard, it's more of a recycle center. So they just drain the fluids and crush the cars. I have a friend that works there, and he was going to open the gate so we could pick the parts I wanted. It so happened that they needed someone to work at night, loading a ship with steel, so he had to cancel. Hoping I get to go today. 

My 626 is non turbo, and I believe the one at the junkyard is too, if it is turbo... Well, then I'll just unbolt the subframe, engine and trans as a unit and do a motor swap, who doesn't prefer a turbo over non turbo, right?  :P

Really looking forward to getting this on the road now, especially since my subaru got crashed on monday (not my fault)  :(

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So, annoyingly enough I didn't get the chance to pick the parts today either  :unsure: 

But, I did get the narrow "tuning wheel nuts", so I could mount up the summer tires today. Keep in mind, the rims will be painted and polished. The lip will be chrome, and the center I'm thinking silver/champagne. I kind of regret not going with a bit bigger tire size, even though the 195/45-16's are bang on the rolling circumference of the original tires. Well, they'll probably be gone by the time they're going back on (btw Sailun Atreszzo's smoke like hell! :angel: )

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I fixed the horn today, the wiring for the horn button wasn't done right, easy fix (didn't snap any pics of it though)

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If I'm not mistaken, that front and rear body kit is STUPID rare.

 

I can't stand body kits on the GD myself, but those kits sell for $$$$ to the right buyer.

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Well, I believe it's an original Mazda add on kit, am I on to something? I'm not a big fan of big body kits myself, but I kinda like this (at least the front and sideskirts).

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Finally! 

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And the poor donor car looked like this afterwards

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However, I didn't get the neutral position switch, as the car was on the ground (with no wheels), so I'll have to buy a new one (which I can't really afford right now)
Did get the headlights though, but one of them cracked when I pulled it out, not a big deal, since I can just move the bulb holder over to the one's on the car. 
Decided to take the airflow sensor as well, I have a suspicion that mine is a bit loco at times. 

I'll start wrenching on it tomorrow, more updates then  :P

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Yesterday was a good day, didn't get too much done, but had a great time.  Weather was great, we had a little barbecue, and just enjoyed wrenching on our cars. I switched over the bulb holders from the junkyard headlights, to mine. Also I found out I was missing the plastic trim on top of the headlights, so I switched those over as well. 

I'm having a problem finding out what's causing the engine to run badly. Sometimes it runs great, other times it sounds like it's only running on 3 cylinders. Rough idle, and lagging as it goes through the rev range. I have a fresh set of NGK plugs in it, but I suspect it might be the AFM that sometimes run a bit off. It smells like it's running really rich. Tried switching the coil wire over from the parts motor as it was a bit loose, but no difference. Going to pull the plugs to see if they're showing any signs of something wrong, change the AFM (Want to clean the other one first, what should I use there?), change the plug wires, and see if any of that makes any difference. I'm also told, that the car had a problem starting and running when it's cold outside (-2 celcius), anyone have any clues to what might cause that?

Here's the only picture I took yesterday, not really car related though  :P 

post-34287-0-43444600-1437304479_thumb.j

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Easy test for the VAF, unplug it while it's running. If there's no change, or it runs better, it's likely bad.

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I know, but I'm suspecting a periodic fault, as it sometimes runs really good, and sometimes it's struggling to run. 

I've gotten my hands on a Momo steering wheel, which is pretty worn. But as there are no tears in the leather I'm going to give dying a try. I really like the Dino wheel currently in the car, but it might not pass MOT, and the Momo will (as it is approved for road use). I will probably find use for it in another car sometime, so it'll be a fun little project.

I'm having a little trouble finding out what sway bar links is the correct ones. I believe the rear are shorter than the front, but the one's I find on ebay look a little too short, is the coupe different from the rest? Can anyone help me get the original part numbers?

Might put in a few hours of wrench time tomorrow, and snap a few shots of the car in general (I've been lazy with the pictures)

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Got to put in some wrench time today, and I'm happy to say it now runs "good".

Found out that cylinder nr 3 did not fire, and began searching for the problem. Did it have spark? The spark plug wires was junk, so I swap'd over the ones from the spare head. No luck there, checked for spark, and it was there alright. Took out the spark plug and turned it over while covering the spark plug hole with my hand. No gasoline smell, no gas. Why? checked the wiring and all seemed ok, took out an injector from the spare head, and set ahead swapping it over. Sure enough, the injector on cyl nr 3 had a hairline crack on it. Got everything done, and it fired right up, and ran pretty decent. Still, it seems to be running a bit rich (any hints on how to fix that is much appreciated). 

Snapped a few pics, but as I forgot to bring my gf's camera along, it's crappy iphone 4 pic's (I'm not really a phone geek, and as long as it works, I'll keep it. I'd rather spend my cash on cars)

It's hard to see because of the picture quality, but here's the crack on the injector. 

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All done for the day:

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Here's that Dino steering wheel I like so much. It looks right if you ask me:

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Can't wait to get the exhaust done, it sound terrible now  :unsure:

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Payday=Car parts day!

Ordered up a new alcantara leather shift boot, along with a new (probably fake) Momo gear knob. I cut a groove in the one I had, to try and make the original boot hold on to it, but the boot was old, and teared when I stretched it a little. The knob I went with was the small set screw design, as I plan to rip off the top part of the shifter, to make it shorter. (Read about it being glued on in a thread on here somewhere)

Also, since the spark plug wires is old, and somewhat corroded, I ordered up a set of new ones. With the color of the car being red, I had to go with red ones, right? The cheapest ones I could find (without too much searching) was Taylor spiro-pro from Summit racing. Now, I have no experience with Taylor, but I kind of trust summit, without ever having bought anything there before (weird really).

Going to mount up my Sacks supertouring rear dampers tomorrow, finally got the dust boots today.

 

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So, the lift was busy today as my boss was wrenching on his Nissan S14. I figured I'd do something else then. I had a wire loose in the engine bay, and tracked it inside the car. Took out the kick plate, and found this:

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They were hooked up to these:

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It all went to this:

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And I figured it's not original, as you're not supposed to have two of these:

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I found out the speakers wasn't hooked up with speaker wire, so my interior ended up looking like this:

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I also found these, does anyone know what they're for?

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I guess this is the original speaker wires?

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I have a love/hate relationship with electrical work, I love to hook up things, and route them properly, but I also have a case of OCD when it's not done properly (routed nicely, zip tied so they don't rub on everything and such). So when I find something that's not done right, I HAVE to fix it. Well, it was fun, and I got a couple of ideas about what I want to do with the interior of the car. Also found out the passenger side has a few cracks in it, so I'll keep my eyes open for a donor parts. Unfortunately the car I got the head from had blue interior, so I can't (or won't) grab interior stuff from it.

Got a leather dye today, going to dye a Momo steering wheel. Maybe I should post a write up on the how to section if it's successful?

Today my engine suddenly wouldn't run properly. I'm really sick of searching for the cause, but the next step (which really should've been done already) is to empty the gas tank, pour on some new gas, and change the fuel filter. I already have the filter laying around.

Also, when I was picking up my dust boots for the rear struts, I just happened to ask what price they could give me on the sway bar links I need. To my surprise, they were cheaper then both ebay, and the cheap-parts-places we have online here in Norway. So I ordered them. They told me it would be a week or two before they got here, but hey, it's not like the car is road worthy yet anyways.

Hopefully I get some time to work on it tomorrow.

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So I bought a new car today, a 1989 626 2.0L mtx. I got it for 300$. It looked something like this when I got it this morning:

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And after some hours of wrenching, this is what I was left with:

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The funny thing is, when you send a car to be crushed, you get 365$ for it. So I got some much needed parts, and earned a few bucks at the same time. I didn't take a picture, but in the trunk there were a set of brand spanking new lowering springs for it. Not sure if I'll be using those, or the ones that's already on my car. 

Also, I got some monroe front struts, as mine are leaking, and have no damping effect what so ever, saved about 240 bucks there. the neutral position switch seemed fine (going to check it with a multimeter to make sure it's working before I install it), but I had to cut the wires as I didn't have a 24mm wrench, only a socket. I'm a little bummed about that, but it was either that or no sensor. Got the solanoids (hope they're the same on the 2.0 and the 2.2 litre engines), some dash trim, a radiator, a set of nice headlights to keep as spares, and different bits and pieces.

Really looking forward to getting those front struts, and the new rear struts mounted, and crossing my fingers the solanoids, new fuel and fuel filter will take care of the rough idling. Also, I'll be changing my exhaust setup, a 2,5" cat will cost me around 120$, and the original cat on this looked fine. So I'll be going with original exhaust to the cat, and go with 2,5" piping from there. It'll save me money, and get the car on the road faster. I really can't wait to go for a spin, I've never really driven the thing, other than in and out of the shop.

 

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Since you have a car carrier and don't have to pay for a tow truck you came out ahead.  That's crazy.  Sucks that the car went to the crusher though. :(

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Sucks that the car went to the crusher though. :(

Yeah, that's true. It was a bit nasty inside, and the brakes needed some work, but except from that, and that door being smashed in, it was really not in a bad state. If I had a place to keep it, I would probably have fixed it so my gf could have it. 

But I figure, it's better that it's parts get a new life in my coupe, then if it would be crushed as it was.

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