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ddog

1986 Gc Glx Coupe

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Hi folks, I decided to bring my 626 out of retirement. It's been sitting under a garage for about 6 plus years now where I basically used it for storage :smile:. Forgive the quality of the pics as I wasn't able to get proper shots of the car due to the location.

 

First I needed to remove all the junk inside:

 

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and that's after removing a lot of junk!

 

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Unfortunately the interior did not hold up to well..

 

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The engine is a SOHC FE. The engine was fully rebuilt before the car sat. It's got a ratchet carb (can't remember size) and a half race cam.

 

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Don't mind the excess fuel hose, I rigged up an external fuel pump, just to give the car a start after all these years.

 

I had plans to install a pair of drafts before letting the car sit.

 

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A pair of solex carbs together with a mikuni manifold for the datsun 910 bluebird. I remember the intake ports matched those of the FE head.

 

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My intentions were to change over to a fuel injected engine. I initally had planned of bringing in a MX6 or Cronos front cut from either Japan or England, with either a FS or KL engine setup, however that deal fell through last December.

 

After many years of searching for an FE3, an opportunity presented itself very recently. Someone had a FE3 engine and manual transmission for sale, however they did not know the condition of the engine and how well it ran before they obtained it. Given the age of the engine, the way it looked and the price wanted, I regretfully decided to pass up on the offer.

 

So, I am stuck with what I have at the moment. As of now, the car starts fine but will not idle, carb may need some servicing...hoepfully something minor. I may even attempt to install the solex carbs. 

 

But before that, I do remember having one issue before letting the car sit, and that was a leaking brake junction box:

 

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I will have to look into this for a replacement or a substitute.

 

 

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It might just be that the lines were a bit loose, this has happened to be, but the rust might stop you from being able to tighten them.

Don't forget to treat the chassis where the paint has been stripped thanks to the brake fluid leak. I used a zinc primer and zinc rich paint over the top after peeling all the damaged paint. was a bit of a pain and I should have done it with the engine out in hind sight.

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It might just be that the lines were a bit loose, this has happened to be, but the rust might stop you from being able to tighten them.

Don't forget to treat the chassis where the paint has been stripped thanks to the brake fluid leak. I used a zinc primer and zinc rich paint over the top after peeling all the damaged paint. was a bit of a pain and I should have done it with the engine out in hind sight.

 

I plan to take it off for inspection and cleaning. I am not sure if the valve can be serviced or not, but i remember keeping a spare of this some years back, problem is locating it.....

 

Will definitely have to deal with the fluid damage on the body too.

 

Are there any headers that can be used on this engine? Maybe something from another platform that may need a bit of modification to work. the only ones I find on ebay are for the RWD version that came in the mazda pickup.

 

You see I have a custom header which was built OK, which I had installed on the car when it was a F8 carb engine. However I remember when I rebuilt the FE engine, the headers did not mount properly anymore. They hit the oil pan, so I am assuming that maybe the FE block is a bit taller. I can probably heat the header with a torch and try to bend it enough to clear the oil pan, if there aren't any other options.

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Yes the FE block is taller than an F8, I would just take them to an exhaust place and have them weld an inch of extra pipe in just after the collector. I had to do the same thing in reverse when using an F6 which was my desperation spare motor many years ago. Cut & shut is slightly easier, but still its not going to be a big deal for most exhaust shops.

 

There are ones still available on ebay, but theyre mostly sold here and the shipping would be too much compared with a simple modification which might cost you $50.

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Unfortunately a lot of the brake components has failed. I realized fluid was not leaving the master cylinder to reach the distribution block. I took apart the master for further inspection realizing that the piston had seized.

 

Unfortunately I cannot rebuild the master as it was very rusty and very pitted throughout the entire length of the cyclinder.

 

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Also the booster was faulty and needs to be replaced. Due to the availablity of parts I may have to end using a different booster/ master combination. I had a non ABS B14 sentra booster laying around that fit perfectly into the 626:

 

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I am hoping there is a 2 line sentra master available that can work with this setup. The B14 booster is a bit smaller than the original which can be seen in the pic below. I can change this out to a bigger ABS version instead.

 

626 on the left, B14 on the right:

 

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