dan atkins

What 626 Parts Are You Looking For??

31 posts in this topic

I am looking up more and more new 626 parts the more I am finding Mazda as already archived the part #// meaning no longer available.. my daily driver is a 01 626 adn there is a long list in my head of factory parts that are gone..

 

Today I just ordered more suspension spring seats for the 83-87 626's and 1 of the part #'s is now gone.. I will have enough in a week to do 1 car after that there wont be enough new parts do do it again. in less I find something that will interchange. for the 93 to 2002 cars this part is already gone.

 

So the Question in this thread for you guys is what parts are you looking for to keep your cars running???

For those that dont know I can do both Factory Mazda or Aftermarket equivalent replacement parts..

 

Post up on what you are needing or looking for and I will see what I can do..

 

Dan

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that's Ok I can do that too since a lot does interchange what color are you needing??

 

Dan

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Custom 626 headlights that doesn't cost a shitload would be sick, but I have only seen a few and I don't think they where aftermarket ones but home made or something.

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Sorry FIS but I dont have any motive to make heads lights.. 

 

Dan

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a cradle?? Okay it's connected to the passenger side CV shaft, I had a shop rethread ONE bolt into the cradle where that bracket is on the transmission holding it on. That's the best description I can give :dry: but the guys at the shop said, to do both bolts they would have to move the power steering lines, which are basically up top no where near the axle to take it out, which I had done myself. Your best bet is to actually email me since I work a lot and barely remember my pass word here. Nightwishwolf@live.com

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Not sure the technical name, but I am looking for the shims on solid lifters for the 99-00 motor.  I think they may be a Mazda only part though.

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is it the cap looking part that sits on top of the valves??

 

Dan

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One of those things that you use to hold the driver side OEM fabrik floor mat in place. Mine keep sliding away so i need something to keep it where it is supposed to be. Prefer a black one, so i guess it cant be a 626 one since they are gray? Perhaps the Protege had them in black?

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if I can still get the visor you are looking at 109.00 each side..

 

Dan

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I was constantly breaking motor mounts. Finally found someone that made the front and rear mounts in polyurethane. The other 2 on the sides in polyurethane are impossible to find for an 88 turbo manual. Also, I found that the bushings for the shifter and the linkage fall apart. Ive ruined about 3 or 4 trannies from the roll pin in the diff breaking for the carrier gears. Blown like 3 turbos. The little button clip things for the windows (glass retainers). Power window master switches. Fuel injector pigtails. Been through countless axles and wheel bearings. I have 270k miles on this thing and love it! Ive replaced/rebuilt most of the drivetrain several times, but shes a trooper!  Ive been rebuilding a lot of rotaries lately and have no end in site. What's up with a discount? My email is scmisterdeuce@hotmail.com if you need to look me up in your computer. Hahahaha!

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I am looking for a replacement interior door panel (driver's) in tan color for a 2000 626 ESV6- nothing on ebay. Appreciate any referrals.

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I assume 78-82 hardtop outer window seals are long gone. I am currently trying to adapt some other rubber bits. I am talking about the seal between the door and window, and on the back window, the body and window.

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Door rubbers to suit S1/S2 CB2 coupes. PLEEEEEASE!

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 The car is a 2001 626es with v6 2.5L california emmissions...

I have been trying to find a Fuel Tank Sending Unit/Level Sensor with no luck. 

The dealership no longer carries this part.

The check engine light is on so now I can't pass inspection due to this.

If someone has one and are willing to sell it, I'm game.

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speedracer240sxguy:

If you cannot find this part...

 

If you have a wiring diagram, see which wires go to the actual sending resistor. You can stick in a resistor where sending unit's resistor would be and then it will act like it works. I know my Mazda (1980) 626 shows something like 17-109 ohms.  So, a 60 or so ohms of resistance would show half a tank, and the computer will never know the difference. Most likely, it has failed due to the pivot connection oxidizing and not letting electricity through.

 

OR...you may be able to repair it as I did.

 

If you remove the unit, you may see rust and whitish zinc oxidation on it. I did on mine. I then popped off the little metal cover and removed the float. I then took a little sandpaper and cleaned the holes that the float rotated in. I then cleaned off the little steel wire the float is on with sandpaper, reassembled it, and it works. I am sure the assembly is different for you, but it should be very similar.

 

I hope that helps.

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I have been trying to find a Fuel Tank Sending Unit/Level Sensor with no luck. 

The dealership no longer carries this part.

Junkyard should have those, shouldn't be a problem reusing an old one.

 

 

The check engine light is on so now I can't pass inspection due to this.

Remove the bulb and pass the inspection, reinsert it after it has passed.

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Taking the bulb out doesn't change the fact that the computer has a code stored in the computer. During the state inspection the state computer will detect the code at the end of the test.

I'm a state inspector...

If I unhook the battery to get rid of the code that is stored in the computer then the ecu goes from a "Readiness" status to a "Not Ready" state and will fail.

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Putting the resistor in will make the computer think it is reading the sensor correctly, and your error code should be gone.

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Putting the resistor in will make the computer think it is reading the sensor correctly, and your error code should be gone.

Thats what Ive been looking into doing and can finally do so tomorrow. (my day off)

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