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sharps7789

Ask Me Questions About Your 1988-1992 626 And I Will Answer Them :)

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Alrighty then! First thing you need to do is jack up the passenger side of the car near the front wheel and support it with a jack stand.. PLEASE do not rely on just a jack.. then after the vehicle is secure get into your car and cut the wheel all the way to the right. you can do this process without removing the tire. Remove the 4 bolts holding on the lower splash shield and wiggle it out of the way to get to your harmonic balancer, still easy?.. take a 21mm socket and a breaker bar and place it on the harmonic balancer bolt, then wedge the breaker bar against the bottom "A" arm of the cars front suspension, then bump the key on your ignition, it should make a bump outside the car and then try to crank normally, wallah, instant loosened bolt, and now that that is loose, you need to loosen your alternator and a/c compressor to get your belts off, a 12mm wrench and socket, a 14mm wrench and socket are required for this. once you get the belts off take off the top timing cover there are 3 10mm bolts holding it on. then go back to the bottom of the car and on the harmonic balancer there are 6 bolts holding it on which are 10 mm, they should come out by hand with a ratchet and sockter then the harmonic balancer falls right off, and remember to take the thrust washer off too, remove the lower timing cover which is 2 10mm bolts on each side, you have to pull out on this cover after removing the bolts to get it off. -takes a deep breath-

 

Now you are able to see your timing belt, run the bolt back in on the crankshaft so you will be able to spin the motor over with a socket and ratchet to line the camshaft "1" with a big arrow on it up with the arrow stamped at the top of the aluminum backing plate behind the camshaft sprocket, if you look on the crankshaft its dot will be lined up with the timing mark stamped on the water pump housing.. if not the previous person timed it wrong, like what happened on my car :(, anyways.. on the tensioner loosen its 14mm bolt and use a big screwdriver pushing on the belt to move it back about 2 inches, then re-tighten it so it will hold itself out of the way for you :), then carefully remove your belt as to not move the crankshaft or camshaft sprockets, and you finally got that darn belt off! dont you just love interference engines when you are paranoid about that booger breaking? lol inspect the belt for cracks and damage such as burning, which could be a bad tensioner or idler, inspect both tensioner and idler too as they spin free and make little noise, if they are hard to spin, change them. as for the belt, id reccomend changing it with a Goodyear Gatorback, they are fairly cheap and NAME BRAND for this car and they can be found here: ( http://www.amazon.co...81&s=automotive ) also make sure your water pump has NO play in it while you are here!

 

Now its time to make sure your timing marks are still lined up on your crank and cam, carefully route the timing belt around the sprockets and tensioner and idler, when you think you have it on and the marks are still lined up loosen the tensioner bolt and retighten it hand tight, and CHECK CHECK CHECK your timing marks are lined up, if they arent loosen the belt and try again, get it right, the right timing makes all the difference, it also spells a good running motor or destruction. when its all said and done on installing the belt, start the car and make sure it still runs good, and check the belt as it rides to assure its not binding on anything, then shut the car off, and start the reassemble process :)

 

all in all its not a bad job but will consume atleast 3 hours.. being me 6'6 and about 300lbs its hard for me to work on things efficiently, but i still fit in my mazda just fine ;) if you have any questions on the timing belt process please feel free to ask and post this wherever people need help with it!

 

now its time to make sure your timing marks are lined up, both crank and cam and reinstall your timing belt

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Nice write up. One trick that I use to move the tensioner is to loosen the 14mm bolt.  Then put a 17mm wrench on the camshaft and rotate slightly clockwise. This will allow the timing belt to move the tensioner. Usually not enough, but if i use my fingers and give the tensioner a nudge it goes far enough. Then Holding it in place with the wrench still on the camshaft. I am able to tighten the 14mm bolt on the tensioner.  I am not coordinated enough to use the screw driver and 14mm in the same place. But whatever works best for each of us. 

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Nice write up. One trick that I use to move the tensioner is to loosen the 14mm bolt.  Then put a 17mm wrench on the camshaft and rotate slightly clockwise. This will allow the timing belt to move the tensioner. Usually not enough, but if i use my fingers and give the tensioner a nudge it goes far enough. Then Holding it in place with the wrench still on the camshaft. I am able to tighten the 14mm bolt on the tensioner.  I am not coordinated enough to use the screw driver and 14mm in the same place. But whatever works best for each of us. 

I also use my car as a truck with my ramps, both tool boxes, jacks, jackstands, oil, antifreeze.. everything in my trunk for working on it XD im obssesed with it

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Very nice, thanks for the info!

 

Now I have to wonder, have you ever pulled out the radiator in these cars? I was checking mine out the other day and I noticed I have some rust and lime corrosion on the very bottom left of the radiator fins. I have a spare shite 626 that I can pull some parts out of the engine bay and that one happens to have, if I'm correct, a fairly decent radiator that might actually have been a new replacement in that one. I'd like to rip the old one out from mine and swap it out from the other car.

 

How difficult is that and how would you go about doing it?

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So easy, that I almost hope you're joking, lol.

 

But seriously; a socket set, some screw drivers and it shouldn't take more than 20 minutes to swap a radiator.

 

Top brackets holding it down have 2 10mm bolts each, fan has two plugs that need to be un-plugged. Pull off bottom hose, pull off top hose, and yank it out.

 

Swapping the fan and shroud to the new radiator is straight forward. A couple 10mm bolts hold it on.

 

Drain plug is on the bottom of the radiator, left side if you're standing in front of the car, looking at the engine.

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I have a question. Is it possible to replace the steel coolant line coming from the passenger side of the engine to the right side and back, where the bypass hose connects? Brilliant PO hacked this up for some reason on my car, and hosed it together and it always leaks. Changed the hoses but the only way it won't leak is if I use some gasket maker or the like.

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I have a question. Is it possible to replace the steel coolant line coming from the passenger side of the engine to the right side and back, where the bypass hose connects? Brilliant PO hacked this up for some reason on my car, and hosed it together and it always leaks. Changed the hoses but the only way it won't leak is if I use some gasket maker or the like.

Yes, buts it is a pain lol

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Hey Sharps7789,

I'm brand new to these forums because I'm in the process of restoring my girlfriends GD 626. There is a lot of work to do and I'm mostly confident with a majority of it however an insight into this vehicle is defiantly needed as I'm normally working on my Celica instead haha the cars are worlds apart. 

My first question before many more to come is: Where on earth is the horn? I can't find it anywhere and nobody on the internet knows haha, Please Help

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I have a question. Is it possible to replace the steel coolant line coming from the passenger side of the engine to the right side and back, where the bypass hose connects? Brilliant PO hacked this up for some reason on my car, and hosed it together and it always leaks. Changed the hoses but the only way it won't leak is if I use some gasket maker or the like.

Yes, buts it is a pain lol

 

 

Can you elaborate? I need to pull one from the JY. Seems like there might be a bolt there, but the A/C compressor might have to be moved out of the way?

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I agree that they are wimpy. I hit them the other day and it was like "Really? That's it?!" No one would even notice me blasting those...

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I've once considered installing train horn in my car. Then I realized I may not physically have the actual electrical power to even do that. So I decided to downgrade it to a horn I can easily install but is stupidly loud and obnoxious and also able to keep me entertained. :)

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I have yet to hook up my horn, after changing the steering wheel years ago.

I know it sounds silly, but I find it fairly easy to just use my BOV as a temp horn till I hook it up. A quick sneeze. (HKS w/ purple fin)

You probably wouldn't belive how many times in one week people just slowly drift into my lane, seconds away from grinding into the side of me.

Give it a little gas, maybe 1 or 3psi, and a quick sneeze to get their attention. You should see how southern californians swerve. Its frightening, I blame p/s.

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If you want a loud horn pull one from an F-Series Ford truck.  They're plenty loud and it's a Ford so the wiring should be similar enough.  I don't know a lot about horn circuits in other vehicles (maybe they're all done the same way).  Our horns are 1 wire positive feed horns that are grounded by the horn button.  Providing ground is what activates the horn.  It's easy to short them and have a horn that is always on (frustrating to deal with).  That's why during accidents people's horns get stuck on.  It's due to front end damage that provides the always energized horn wire with a new ground.  It's annoying but it's for safety.

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That's a good idea, DJ. My trucks horn is definitely better, so that may be an easy route to go.

Train horns are illegal, at least in VA.

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Im running Hella Supertones for horns on my Mazda6 and adore them. Typically a suburu thing, but there over 130DB's. So they get some attention. There are some clones of them on Ebay pretty cheap, and have been thinking about grabbing a set for the 626.

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My next question. What is the easiest way to change the speakers?

back ones arent too bad, remove the 3rd member light cover and drop backseatrests down and remove the cover, and there they be, front ones... gotta take lower dash apart.

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My next question. What is the easiest way to change the speakers?

back ones arent too bad, remove the 3rd member light cover and drop backseatrests down and remove the cover, and there they be, front ones... gotta take lower dash apart.

 

 

 

I actually just did my front ones yesterday, really easy thing to do. You remove the lower dash assemblies on the driver and passenger side (also VERY easy to do, like there are probably 7-10 screws to undo) and there you are, front speaker access! From there, it will depend on if you have the OEM speakers or aftermarket ones. I had shitty old aftermarket ones that I resoldered some wiring to the existing wires and installed them from there. I DO recommend Blaupunkt audio, wow!

 

There is also a link somewhere around here that shows the wiring harness for the stereo that is from the '99 626 but is almost identical to the '91 minus a few color changes. That might also be pretty helpful if needed.

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Two more questions!

 

This is something that comes up every so often around here ESPECIALLY during the summer, R-12 to R-13 refrigerant conversion and AC maintenance. Being an idiot, I never got around to redoing my AC last summer as I thought, hey, I'll just suffer through the last two months of summer, no biggie. As God as my witness that isn't happening again...

 

So, the plan of initial attack is to replace all the O-rings. Where and how many have to be replaced? And how the hell do you undo this piece?!

post-29393-0-98029600-1394129778_thumb.j

 

I want to pull out the compressor and flush out all the old oil and replace it with R-12/13 compatible oil but last summer when I tried to do it, none of the nuts or anything were going to budge and I was too concerned I'd destroy some of the piping to go any further. Any tips or techniques to do this? And I'm assuming to replace the receiver dryer, the passenger side headlamp assembly needs to be removed before pulling that out?

 

And next, I'll be replacing my tranny fluid this weekend along with the fluid filter. I'm also assuming that underneath the black pan here, the filter is within it?

post-29393-0-44472300-1394129980_thumb.j

 

Many thanks!

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My next question. What is the easiest way to change the speakers?

back ones arent too bad, remove the 3rd member light cover and drop backseatrests down and remove the cover, and there they be, front ones... gotta take lower dash apart.

 

 

There was no need to remove the tail light cover when I did them in my '90. Still no walkthrough on how to replace that coolant pipe? :)

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