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sharps7789

Ask Me Questions About Your 1988-1992 626 And I Will Answer Them :)

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On ‎4‎/‎8‎/‎2016 at 2:16 AM, Leev said:

 

What's an 'automatic'. I'm not following you.

lol, seriously though, as far as an air cooler, when I took the ATX out of my GT I didn't see anything that looked like an air cooler, although I really wasn't paying attention.

And correct fluid, I don't know honestly. If it was me, I'd use something silly like Trickshift of something pricey. Although who know, cheap store brand Dextron might be fine too.

When I change my oil I always add a quart of generic ATF and let it idle for 5-10 minutes then drain.

Lol!

That's strange. In the handbook for the tranny, a small rectangular air cooler gets mentioned and shown in a diagram that is meant for the tranny fluid. I wonder if it was a Gen A and Gen B difference or something. Might be something I need to look into adding.

 

I'm thinking of hunting down some ATF fluid certified for Ford MERC and DEX-II and use that since that's Mazda spec from back then. I've been using synthetic fluid and it's been a good improvement but I'm iffy about using some fluids because some just cover every single spec or exceed those specs. I was thinking of testing out Mobil-1's synthetic ATF fluid but it's an all of the above grade spec. My tranny seems to have a weird oddity to it that I don't want to exacerbate but since I've had it and changed out the fluid, it hasn't gotten worse but slightly better over time. Damned contraptions...  

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I have posted a couple of pictures of the transmission cooler in my car, a 1989 626 turbo, ATX, USA model.

You can see that the cooler is mostly hidden behind the bumper. I have considered relocating it so it gets more air flow, but haven’t done it yet.

 

I bought the car about 3 years ago. It had a bad transmission; no 3rd or 4th gear. I rebuilt the transmission and used Valvoline Dexron III. The transmission performs fine so far. The car is totally stock. It is just a daily driver for me, so I don't push it hard.

1989 Mazda 626, air inlet front, left, intercooler and AT oil cooler fixed.jpg

1989 Mazda 626 transmission cooler.jpg

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Ooooh yeah, I remember that. I did remove that when I pulled out the ATX.

 

Funny, when I bought my GT it didn't have 3rd or 4th either. I just pulled the stupid thing out and stuck an MTX in there, lol.

 

 

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Can anyone PLEASE tell me what the part is called that that sensor screws into? When changing the thermostat, we broke the bolt off. While getting the bolt out, we broke the ear the bolt screws into. We have been all over the net, and 3 parts houses and NOBODY has a clue what we are talking about. Any help is GREATLY appreciated. 

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Distributor housing. That's what I call it. I have a couple extras I think.

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So, my original motor had a T-bird hybrid turbo and 360cc injectors from a 323 turbo.
I say original because, sadly, I got over confident with the larger injectors and hurt that motor at 15/16 psi at redline.

"New" used motor installed, everything back to original, with the exception of being back on a stock turbo.

Got MJSpies custom O2 housing, Mike Knight's chip, 190lph wahlbro pump, open element air filter with a hood scoop for fresh air, the usual stuff. Back on stock boost:9/10 psi

Problem since the new swap: high rpm and sometimes mid range sputter/stutter. Not severe like a misfire but a definite stuttering as you rev through certain parts of the rpm range.

Happens mostly at/near 5500/6000 rpm in first, happens less often in 2nd then goes away in higher gears when taken to redline.

1st gear, highest strain on everything, high boost at high rpm, so I'm thinking electrical...Replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, igniter, coil. Same issue.

Lean on fuel? With (witch hunter rebuilt) 360s and a 190 wahlbro, new filter, new O2 sensor on stock boost?
Besides the possibility of a wonky distributor I've replaced the ignition system and I'm thinking I'm not leaning out. Even played with BOV settings to be sure it wasn't leaking.

Could, between the 360s and the chip and back down to stock boost levels on the stock turbo, I be possibly running too rich at places in the rpm range? (No wideband as of yet)

I've considered valve float but I've experienced that before and it always happened like clockwork at the same rpm, like a rev limiter, every single time whereas this happens enough to be annoying but not in every gear and not consistently; sometimes it pulls clean to redline in first and second and others it doesn't.

Even changed thermostat and ECT sensor for ECU. could it be Fuel Press. regulator? Fuel dampener?

Any ideas of what I could be missing would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance

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You could not pay me any amount of money to redline a 2.2 in any gear, above all 1st. Good god man. The poor engine and trans. With OEM valve springs and head design, there's no power being made up there, not without serious porting and valve train mods.

 

As far as you're problem, could be a spark gap issue. I've stuttered from that. Also ignition timing. You're playing an extremely dangerous game not having a wideband installed. Without knowing AFR, the stuttering could be anything.

 

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Hello first time poster, sorry if this has been answered. Got an 89 Mazda 626 and a question.  I had a loose female two prong plug covered by a dust boot cover that splits off from the battery positive main cable and it was just hanging there. I noticed at the end of the steering column, engine side there were two prongs around (im guessing its called) the steering knuckle and nothing connected to them. What is the plug for and/or what does it do once connected?

 

thanks

Michael

image2(1).JPG

image1(2).JPG

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19 hours ago, doenuts said:

Hello first time poster, sorry if this has been answered. Got an 89 Mazda 626 and a question.  I had a loose female two prong plug covered by a dust boot cover that splits off from the battery positive main cable and it was just hanging there. I noticed at the end of the steering column, engine side there were two prongs around (im guessing its called) the steering knuckle and nothing connected to them. What is the plug for and/or what does it do once connected?

 

thanks

Michael

image2(1).JPG

image1(2).JPG

Where I think it goes. See attached video! BUT what does it do?

mazda 626.jpg

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Hello everyone,

I am driving a 1989 Mazda 626 LX. Everything I assume is stock for that model.

Recently, my fuel pump went out on me and I needed to replace it. About a week later I tried turning it over after a couple of drive cycles and it would do the same thing that happened when the fuel pump died.

What should I do to troubleshoot the intermittent startups?

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