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jmorrison

How Do I Remove The Axle Nut

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I have a 95 mazda 626 automatic, I need to replace my passenger side cv axle, I banged out the locking dent and used an 18 inch breaker bar with a 32 mm socket and a cheater pipe, I put all my weight on it ( 230 lbs ) and this dam thing wont even budge. my tires are on the ground and the brake is on. I need help have no clue, Is there some sort of trick? please help. need this done asap for work.

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Heating the nut with a blow-torch might help. But there's no magic trick. Just a lot of force. I broke a 2 foot breaker bar trying to remove one once.

Sometimes you can rest the breaker bar on the ground, and drive the car slowly forward or backwards.

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Leverage is your friend. Try slipping an even longer pipe over the breaker bar. I keep a 7-8 foot pipe handy for those sticky situations.

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It's not something silly like a left hand threaded nut, so you're tightening the nut rather than loosening it?

Old Aussie saying for standard RH threaded nuts - "righty tighty, lefty loosey!"

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Since the axle nut has is locked into the axle (hammer part of it into the groove of the axle), the left handed thread is not needed. It can be stubborn at times and hopefully the axle isn't rusted to the hub.

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Yeah it should not be LH thread.

I've used 1 1/4" galvanised construction pipe before (a 10ft length) on the end of my 3/4" breaker bar top undo axle nuts before (before I invested in air tools)

+1 for the longer pipe

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^ sounds exactly like my breaker bar. Its a galvinized pipe used for chain link fence's. I installed a nice 6ft tall wooden fence a few years back to replace a shitty small chain link fence in my yard. And kept all the pipe to use as breaker bars. I only have 2 left now as most of my friends have took one home for the exact same reasons.

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If you need to put that much force on a 1/2" breaker bar keep in mind that it could break your tool. I've been fortunate enough not to require such force on my car but if I did, I would feel more comfortable going with a 3/4" breaker bar. Those things are beefy and used by diesel truck mechanics.

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For all who plan on doing work on their cars alot, I suggest a 3/4" set, I've found that they've come in very useful over the years, I've used it to get crankshaft bolts out, axle nuts, bell housing bolts.

Even if you dont need the genuine strength of the 3/4" drive the extra leverage is helpful.

Since then I've added a 3/4" air impact gun and some impact sockets in commonly used sizes, and i've had to resort to using them too, there are some occasions where bolts and nuts get rusted on or whatever and these tools make the job alot quicker and these days thanks to ebay even good stuff isnt that expensive.

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