fatmatt86

Vibration In Idle

30 posts in this topic

So I have a 2001 626 lx 2.0 and have replaced all motor mounts and have noticed a significant difference. But while stopped or in park, if I turn the A/C on, it gets shaky, my rpm gauge drops down to 600. Also if I roll up my windows in park or while stopped, my rpm gauge drops and the car shakes. I'm dumbfounded. Don't know if it is the battery or alternator or something else. In Idle my RPM is 900 with minimal shaking. When I turn the AC on or roll up the windows it drops to 750-800 rpm and my dashboard lights go dim a little and the shaking happens. Also shakes when the fan is on. Any suggestion?

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Remove your accessory belts and run the car without them. See if that at least alleviates the shaking temporarily. If it does then the issue is connected to one of your pulleys.

A crankshaft pulley (harmonic balancer) which was reinstalled incorrectly will make the engine vibrate in the same manner. So will a bad torque converter.

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I'm not sure about the later models, but in the GC that's a sign of the idle compensation not working properly.

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Okay, I will take off the belts and see if that is it, and get back and post on here if that was the issue. Looked up a torque converter on rockauto and it is $136.

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Your electrical system needs to be 'solid'........in other words, our cars' electrical system seem to be 'sensitive' to moisture. The grounding of the system needs to be secure/proper.

You need to make sure that grounding points and the negative post of your battery is 'clean'.

Add an extra ground wire from your battery and the engine/transmission.

Check and carefully clean your IAC valve.

Also, make sure the radiator antifreeze fluid is at proper level. If your motor gets too hot then your car will need to work harder to operate and heat isn't helping your electrical system.

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So I took my belts off and ran the car for about a minute. Still shakes when rolling up the windows or with the headlights on. When I put the belts back on and restarted my car, the power steering bubbled up and spilled out and it sounds like a R/C car when I turn the steering wheel. I will add some extra ground wires to it and see if that helps, but in the meantime what can I do to fix the power steering pump. I added more power steering fluid but it is still squealing.

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Disregard the power steering problem. After driving it around a couple of blocks the noise went away on its own. Back to normal. I checked the radiator fluid and filled the reservoir and as far as adding extra ground cables, would a 10 gauge wire work

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Okay forget my last post. Power steering problem still exists.

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What can I do to fix the power steering pump, or do I need a new one. It keeps bubbling up

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So I drove to auto zone and had the battery checked. They said that my alternator was going bad. Could a bad alternator be the cause of the shaking?

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If the pulley is going bad yes. If the alternator itself is faulty not just the pulley then maybe. A bad alternator will not charge a battery so you'll notice that even if you get a battery recharged that it quickly dies when you use the car next time. The power steering pump bubbling from where? Bubbling is probably a clog or air getting into the system. It's a sealed system just like the brake lines if air gets in there it will cause the power steering to fail. I actually just shot a video about that today but I didn't mention anything about bubbling or air as a symptom but yes that could be another one I just fail to mention it in my video.

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If the pulley is going bad yes. If the alternator itself is faulty not just the pulley then maybe. A bad alternator will not charge a battery so you'll notice that even if you get a battery recharged that it quickly dies when you use the car next time.

Or if it's the regulator fried (like mine) it charges the battery too well... you end up with an engine bay full of sulphuric acid and blown headlights (plus anything else susceptible to voltage spikes)

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The power steering fluid was bubbling over at the resovoir. Looked like fuzz. Light red in color. I drained the resovoir and put some new power steering fluid in and haven't had any issues. I'm wondering if the previous owner put transmission fluid in the power steering resovoir, cause it was red in color. My car hasn't failed me or died on the road. Battery was tested good and the alternator tested that is was failing, or going out.

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I changed my mounts about a month ago and it looks like one of the new ones is going bad. It has lifetime warranty so I am going to Exchange it for a new one and put it on and see if the shaking decreases.

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Here's a video I just shot on the power steering. If you have an air leak you'll need to find out where it's leaking fluid or allowing air into the system. In some cases if the power steering pipes or rack needs to be replaced that's something you'll want a professional to handle. Other things like replacing power steering reservoir is fairly easy.

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The power steering fluid was bubbling over at the resovoir. Looked like fuzz. Light red in color. I drained the resovoir and put some new power steering fluid in and haven't had any issues. I'm wondering if the previous owner put transmission fluid in the power steering resovoir, cause it was red in color. My car hasn't failed me or died on the road. Battery was tested good and the alternator tested that is was failing, or going out.

The P/S fluid in my Accent was red in colour. Then again some systems just use DOT3/4 like the brake system instead of dedicated fluid. Perhaps a mixup?

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Yes it's red. It uses ATF (automatic transmission fluid). The same stuff you put in your automatic transmission is used in the power steering system for the 626. Some cars might not be like that but ours certainly is.

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The power steering fluid was bubbling over at the resovoir. Looked like fuzz. Light red in color. I drained the resovoir and put some new power steering fluid in and haven't had any issues. I'm wondering if the previous owner put transmission fluid in the power steering resovoir, cause it was red in color. My car hasn't failed me or died on the road. Battery was tested good and the alternator tested that is was failing, or going out.

The P/S fluid in my Accent was red in colour. Then again some systems just use DOT3/4 like the brake system instead of dedicated fluid. Perhaps a mixup?

No do not use DOT 3/4 or any other brake fluid in your or any other power steering system!! It has the hydraulic power needed but does not have the lubricator properties which are vital to the moving parts of a power steering system. As well, brake fluid wants to absorb water from the atmosphere. Water will damage your power steering components. It requires the water-expelling properties of oil-based hydraulic fluid. Brake fluid is used in the braking system due to lack of moving parts (for the most part) coupled with the extreme temperatures the fluid must endure at the calliper.

Many, if not most, power steering systems use automatic transmission fluid (ATF) as the proper fluid. It has the same requirements as an ATX. It uses hydraulic pressure to operate while using the lubricity of the oil to lubricate its' moving parts. Unless the manual specifies their own brand of PS fluid (these systems have special materials In them and so need proprietary conditioners in the fluid to keep everything going), it's just going to be regular ol' Dex IV or something. Do NOT use these special proprietary brands of PS fluid, made specifically for other cars, in a system which calls for regular ATF, such as the 626. The regular "power steering fluid" sold at car parts shops are normally just ATF rebranded as power steering fluid. They claim to have extra special conditioners to help the seals in the system. The fact is, ATF already has seal conditioners which are also needed in the ATX system. Some brands of "power steering fluid" will alter the colour of their product to make it look like you're getting some special thing.

The fact is, for the 626, you use Dexron III or IV. It should be red in colour. This is what the manual states, both owner's and factory workshop manual. Also says it on the reservoir cap.

If the bubbling/squealing PS system on your car happened after you put the belt back on, then perhaps your problem lies there. Maybe you installed it incorrectly? Tensioned it too tightly? If air did get into the system, then it will want to froth and bubble. You want to raise the front of the car up on jack stands (not wheel ramps), open up the cap of the PS fluid reservoir and run the steering wheel back and forth, full lock to full lock, over and over. This will keep running the fluid through the system and as your reservoir is now the highest point in to system due to jacking the car up, all the air will work itself out eventually. Don't hold the wheel in full lock for more than a couple seconds as this runs the pump at max power and can burn it out, with air in the system. The fluid will keep frothing until it sorts itself out. If a bunch of fluid bubbled out before, have some new fluid handy to keep the system topped up to the proper level.

On another note, if you're going to all this trouble already, perhaps a full PS fluid oil change is a thought?

Good luck.

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Thanks for the advice. I think the problem was from over-tighting the belt, cause when I loosened the belt it no longer bubbled up. I did however (and this was before reading roritor advice) drain the reservoir and i filled the reservoir with the standard auto zone power steering fluid. It was clear in color and wasn't automatic transmission fluid. Would you suggest that I drain the reservoir of the clear stuff and fill it back up with atf? Or will the clear fluid be okay? I did this last Friday and haven't had it bubble over or squeal. What do you think? Also @djdevon3- I watched your video on YouTube and if your power steering is still leaking, I would suggest Lucas power steering. It is about twice as much as the regular stuff, but it is guaranteed to stop leaks or your money back. My old truck used to leak power steering fluid and I had to buy a new bottle of the regular stuff about every 4 days. I finally bought a bottle of the Lucas power steering stop leak stuff and haven't had to buy any PS fluid in over 5 months. Good stuff.

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Good advice fatmatt86 thank you. I'm probably going to pick up a PS pump at the junkyard just in case I need one. It's just easier for me to swap in another one. I'll check the belt tension though. I wouldn't be surprised if I over tightened my belt too. Why pick up another PS pump if I might not need it right now? Because I collect parts for the one day when this stuff will eventually fail. Everything mechanical fails someday and if I plan on keeping the car for my lifetime then best to start stocking up. Doesn't phase me one bit but I don't recommend everyone take that approach and get it diagnosed correctly and preferably professionally. ;)

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Personally, I'd drain it and refill with Dex3/Merc4 or better. Unlike brake fluid, Dexron spec is backwards compatible. But whether you put in Dex3 or Dex4 or whatever, I'd personally still drain out the clear stuff and replace with what all the manuals call for. But that's just me. You gotta make the final call with your car. Kinda like how some guys run synth motor oil and some don't. Or synth ATF and some don't!

Figured the belt was over tensioned. I figured Devon's was, too. Actually that comment was in that long post that never made it to Devon's page.

And Devon, I totally get your stock-up mentality. I, too, plan to never sell my 626. I'll drive it till it'll literally drive no further. That's why I don't really take depreciation into calculating ongoing costs of the car. Only insofar as calculating the cost of insuring it. I stock up on parts that I know fail easily. Even simple stuff, like that rubber accordion boot that lives between the front air scoop and the air filter box. Those things rip all the time due to the rocking motion of the engine and the stationary motion of the air scoop. I have like five of those rubber boots! And cracks in that don't even affect the idle or anything, but still!

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If you're going to change out the fluid, don't just drain the reservoir and refill it once. Do exactly as I said to get the air bubbles out. But every time more fluid runs In to the reservoir, suck it out and dump it in a container. When no more fluid is coming through then start to refill with whatever oil. Keep running lock to lock until the fluid stops emptying from the reservoir into the steering system and there is no more frothing.

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The power steering fluid was bubbling over at the resovoir. Looked like fuzz. Light red in color. I drained the resovoir and put some new power steering fluid in and haven't had any issues. I'm wondering if the previous owner put transmission fluid in the power steering resovoir, cause it was red in color. My car hasn't failed me or died on the road. Battery was tested good and the alternator tested that is was failing, or going out.

The P/S fluid in my Accent was red in colour. Then again some systems just use DOT3/4 like the brake system instead of dedicated fluid. Perhaps a mixup?

No do not use DOT 3/4 or any other brake fluid in your or any other power steering system!! It has the hydraulic power needed but does not have the lubricator properties which are vital to the moving parts of a power steering system. As well, brake fluid wants to absorb water from the atmosphere. Water will damage your power steering components. It requires the water-expelling properties of oil-based hydraulic fluid. Brake fluid is used in the braking system due to lack of moving parts (for the most part) coupled with the extreme temperatures the fluid must endure at the calliper.

That's what I thought at the time. Extremely skeptical, but Hyundai were adamant to use DOT3. Fortunately it appears the OP has a solution to his problem!

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So I have a 2001 626 lx 2.0 and have replaced all motor mounts and have noticed a significant difference. But while stopped or in park, if I turn the A/C on, it gets shaky, my rpm gauge drops down to 600. Also if I roll up my windows in park or while stopped, my rpm gauge drops and the car shakes. I'm dumbfounded. Don't know if it is the battery or alternator or something else. In Idle my RPM is 900 with minimal shaking. When I turn the AC on or roll up the windows it drops to 750-800 rpm and my dashboard lights go dim a little and the shaking happens. Also shakes when the fan is on. Any suggestion?

 

So I have a 2001 626 lx 2.0 and have replaced all motor mounts and have noticed a significant difference. But while stopped or in park, if I turn the A/C on, it gets shaky, my rpm gauge drops down to 600. Also if I roll up my windows in park or while stopped, my rpm gauge drops and the car shakes. I'm dumbfounded. Don't know if it is the battery or alternator or something else. In Idle my RPM is 900 with minimal shaking. When I turn the AC on or roll up the windows it drops to 750-800 rpm and my dashboard lights go dim a little and the shaking happens. Also shakes when the fan is on. Any suggestion?

 

Hi 

 

I am experiencing the same vibration issues and similar symptom after getting my all of mounts replaced, 5 of them. For your car, is this problem now fixed ? How ?

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Changing the motor mounts did help a little. Also got new tires which helped minimize shaking at high speeds.

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