PrinceValorum 303 Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 Are antique plates different than historical plates? I know in Ohio at least they don't seem to be enforced much. One guy I knew DD'd his BMW Bavaria for over a year with historical plates and no issue. I can't think if I remembered you getting a 3 or not. Another friend bought the same car at the same time, lol. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
XeNoMoRpH 226 Posted August 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 There is no difference. You can get vintage plates like what I have on my MG which go up until 1972. After that, the year is no longer part of the plate and you get a generic antique plate (black with white text or yellow with black text). It varies on how police enforce it. I feel like I mentioned the 3, but who knows where. It gets awesome fuel mileage (54mpg when I really try). I've raced it more than my Miata in the past two years which is sad. Anyway, happy to get this moving again. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GT_FE3 16 Posted August 20, 2017 Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 Vintage plates and rules sound like a real pain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
XeNoMoRpH 226 Posted August 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2017 There are advantages. I pay no personal property tax on the 626 (here you get to pay taxes on stuff you "own"), no annual inspection (not necessarily a bad thing), and no annual registration fee. Either way, it now has antique plates on. The plate itself is a solid piece of aluminum that was conveniently not the same dimensions of the normal plate. I had to modify the plate a bit to get it to fit in the license plate holder by trimming the top a bit and all the corners. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
XeNoMoRpH 226 Posted August 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2017 Weather was looking good, so I decided to try it out. I unfortunately had locked my key in the car before, however I knew the driver's side rear window was hanging on by a thread. A bit of downward pressure and it went down. Excellent, I'm in. I took the door panel off, removed the window regulator, and installed the new one. Works perfectly. While there I decided "Why not start it?" So I did. A lifter is stuck which I expected. I will add some ATF or Marvel's Mystery Oil and see how it helps with the plan of doing an oil change. Otherwise, I may have to check the HLAs and see if any are not functional. It has been a while after all... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ND28 108 Posted August 26, 2017 Report Share Posted August 26, 2017 If you were to use ATF fluid, how much and for how long would you run it for before an oil change ? Antique plates here in FL are sky blue with whithe lettering , it has crossed my mind a few times lol. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
XeNoMoRpH 226 Posted August 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2017 Probably 30 minutes to an hour for ATF. I haven't done it, but the internet says so. MMO was a better solution, so that is what I went with. Let it heat up and cycle the fan a few times. The lifters quieted down. I ended up driving it to fill it up. I'll need to service the brakes in some manner. New TODO items Speedometer doesn't work, so I assume the speedometer cable The turn signal kept engaging as I turned the wheel to the point the mechanism broke and now the left turn signal will be on since that is the new resting position. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PrinceValorum 303 Posted August 27, 2017 Report Share Posted August 27, 2017 I did the MMO on my 626, something like 250 miles before the oil change. I couldn't believe the difference, it totally stopped the lifters from ticking. It actually came back shortly after I changed the oil. I didn't continue trying it, as I was dubious of what was in the MMO and what it was doing to different seals and such. Man, that turn signal issue sounds like a fun one... I can't even think what would cause that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ND28 108 Posted August 28, 2017 Report Share Posted August 28, 2017 I had a similar issue with my 92 MX6 GT, the headlight switch stock would leave the lights on when turned off, replaced it with a junkyard unit, no issues since. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Leev 140 Posted August 28, 2017 Report Share Posted August 28, 2017 I don't plan on keeping my 626 GT, so if you need random stuff feel free to ask. Depending on what the part is I probably have it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GT_FE3 16 Posted August 28, 2017 Report Share Posted August 28, 2017 ATF works, good on the cheap. This is according to some of my uni lecturers who said they've used it. I have yet to try it myself but probably will soon, getting ATF anyway for the Capella when I get it. 7 hours ago, Leev said: I don't plan on keeping my 626 GT, so if you need random stuff feel free to ask. Depending on what the part is I probably have it. What's the next car going to be Lee? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
XeNoMoRpH 226 Posted August 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2017 Leev, pretty much anything that doesn't seem available anymore I would consider. For example, the stuff below that I'm about to go over, I would love one that isn't broken/repaired. It took me all day, but I mostly repaired the turn signal. I removed the steering wheel and found a random spring and this piece broken. I looked around and figured it out. Attached is a picture of how it is on my Miata (I was hoping I could use the part from it) The spring sits on the white piece and puts pressure on the metal ball. That ball goes into the grooves (left signal, neutral, right signal) and gives the audible click noise. Seems easy enough to repair, right? It took me three attempts: JB-quik epoxy (failed) Super glue and JB-quik epoxy (failed when installing) Drilled the two pieces, inserted metal rod from a clothpin, super glue, and JB-quik (maybe?) I tried it for about 10 minutes. I am already thinking of my 4th, 5th, and 6th attempt on what I will try (additional support with metal, remaking the whole thing in metal, transplanting the whole Miata piece over because I feel I can make it work) I have to fix the speedometer next followed by the ignition/fuel/vacuum issue, which ever of the three it is. Sometimes on start, it takes a lot longer to fire up. When I hit any sort of boost, the car shutters and bucks. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Coke Robot 13 Posted August 31, 2017 Report Share Posted August 31, 2017 I'm just reading all this thinking how nuts it is that in three years where I live, I can put collector's car plates on the 6. That is old af. But hey, I'm hoping they actually make a new RX model by 2020 in time for my car's birthday! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GT_FE3 16 Posted September 1, 2017 Report Share Posted September 1, 2017 On 8/31/2017 at 6:21 PM, Coke Robot said: I'm just reading all this thinking how nuts it is that in three years where I live, I can put collector's car plates on the 6. That is old af. But hey, I'm hoping they actually make a new RX model by 2020 in time for my car's birthday! Yeah its funny I can't quite believe the GD series was launched 30 years ago. I have a few car magazines from the launch and all the specs like drag co-efficiency and interior decibel level are better than the competition at the time. The driving dynamics are advanced for the time and they still drive nicer than some modern cars today. I wonder if they will make another RX. I guess it will be quite difficult due to emissions and such. I resprayed a quarter panel on my friends RX8 which he sold. Fun car, sounds amazing when on the loud pedal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
XeNoMoRpH 226 Posted September 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2017 I don't see a RX happening for a long while. Mazda is moving forward at a great pace with the SkyActiv engines and will start diving into hybrids and electrics. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
XeNoMoRpH 226 Posted June 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 It has been a long time since I have updated this. I had not touched the car in a long while until last month. I started troubleshooting by checking for vacuum leaks (none found), fuel pressure (all checked out), testing the VAF (within specs), etc. I narrowed it back down to ignition and was looking at how I wired up my external coil because I definitely did not remember what I did. I have a Pertronix Flamethrower HV which seems fine. I pressed the ignition cables on the distributor and one clicked. So yeah, that was it. A loose ignition wire on the distributor cap. I'm happy it is mostly normal again. After that, it blew out the exhaust flange gasket after the car. I fixed that and then the muffler had all these holes in it. I didn't want that Walker crap anymore, so I got a Magnaflow bullet style straight through muffler. That is almost done except I need an exhaust tip. It is still breaking up a bit when I get on it hard in 2nd and 3rd. I'll have to play with it more, but overall I am happy that it mostly works. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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