waris93

Need Some Help Please :)

27 posts in this topic

Hi guys I am new in this forum,

I recently bought a Mazda 626 2.5 V6 Manual 1994 model, Just got my p's so had to go with something cheap,

Now this car has been siting outside for almost a year because last owner didn't registered that car.

I am having some problems with cooling Fans, Accelerator, Radiator water leak, and also engine dies during driving means RPM drops to 0 :/

To make it easy I made one video here you can see what problems I am talking about :)

Please watch both parts. Any help will be really appreciated :)

Edit: There is a video I made to explain what I did to fix that problem :) Admin can you please mark this thread as solved. Thanks

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that upper cap isnt your radiator cap. the lower one by the radiator itself is by where its leaking. the leak looks like that plastic housing probably has a crack in it. which means it will need to be replaced.

for the fans, just unplug the connector going to them, and use a test meter to make sure there even seeing power. it could be a bad fan assembly, or something before the fans like a bad fan sensor, or relay.

the issue with the idle when you accelerate is probably just the engine needing a tune up from sitting and not being ran. id slap some new spark plugs, spark plug wires, a new distributor cap and rotor, and a new fuel filter. those all are supposed to be replaced pretty routinely anyways.

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OK. I watched the video.

1. See the yellow cap near the oil dipstick? That's called the "coolant filler cap" (as monoxidechild says). The other yellow cap, on the radiator, is the real radiator cap.

2. I think your radiator cap is faulty, and that's why it's leaking. First, just check that it is a spring-loaded cap, and not a simple flat cap (the coolant filler cap is just a simple flat cap). Second, it may be that the rubber gaskets are bad on the radiator cap, and that's why it's leaking coolant. I would replace that radiator cap.

3. You may also have a coolant leak from that big rubber hose. But I couldn't see it very well.

4. That interior fan switch you turned on controls the interior fan inside the car (by the passenger's feet), not the fans on the radiator. So it's not surprising the radiator fans didn't turn on when you moved that switch. They aren't supposed to. They turn on automatically when the coolant gets too hot.

5. You say you are driving along and the rpm suddenly drops to 0 and the engine dies? Maybe, 5 minutes later, when it cools down, the engine can be started again? That is the classic symptom of distributor failure. It's a common problem. You need a new distributor.

6. The misfire, when it won't rev up, might be the distributor also, or it might need new spark plugs and wires.

But it looks to be a very nice looking car. Which country are you in (right hand drive car)?

And welcome to the board!

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I am in AU :)

Can someone please point me out to ebay links and how much distributor and fuel filter will cost, because the only place I can find distributor, fuel filter here will be mazda dealer and they'll ask alot I am sure.

I will check radiator cap again today and see if its faulty cap :smile:

Thank you for all the info and sorry about "Coolant filler Cap" and "Radiator cap" was confused :P

Is fuel filter hard to install ? :whistle:

Edit: GOD just spoke to mazda dealer, Distributor will come from Japan and will cost $1684 :blink: Seriously Mazda.

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A new distributor costs about $150 Canadian (about the same as Aussie$) from a parts store (not the dealer) here.

The fuel filter is not hard to install, but it is a little awkward to get your hands in there.

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The fuel filter is accessed be removing the air intake scoop and air filter housing. It is also advised to unbolt the cruise control diaphragm and move it out of the way as this will give you more room. The filter basically lives right under the cruise control diaphragm. If you have ABS then it's going to be an even tighter fit to get your hands in there as that's where the ABS pump also lives. Once you access the filter, just unbolt the filter housing (2 bolts) and disconnect the outlet hose going out the top. The tough part here is the hose going in the bottom is really short and so you have almost no room to manoeuvre. Try to spin the filter upside down to have access to the underside (inlet) hose. I also found that those hoses can be stuck on really tight, often necessitating them to be sliced off. In this case, slice up as little as you can to get the hose off, as this will effectively make the hose that much shorter for reassembly, as you'll need to cut off the sliced bit in order to have a proper hose ending.

The filter should be super easy to get. Just go into AutoPro, AutoBarn, SCA, Repco, Burson's, etc. and ask them to order the Ryco replacement. It's OEM spec. They've always cost about $33.

As for a disty, I dunno. I'd either call some Mazda wreckers or even talk to Burson's or whatever. As well, I think AutoZone in the US does international post. Just a thought...

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Today I spended some time on working out my problems and messed up things more. Radiator cap is faulty as NikR said (Good catch) :smile: it is spring loaded but rubber on the cap is falling out.

I tried opening Distributor so I can take Model number etc and buy a new one. I removed Air intake which is connected with Air filter to get better access to disty. Dumbest thing I did was I removed all 3 wires from disty cap. and after that stripped the first screw head :no:post-31197-0-47155900-1347895799_thumb.j

After that I tried putting everything back. which I did but sadly car won't even start up now. Engine cranks but it won't start up. :logik: By mistake I also tried starting a car without putting wires back to disty head.

In what order I'll need to put it back so it can start again, also there is one wire in top of disty which suppose to be click in but it doesn't. you don't even have to force or pressure that wire to come out as soon as you put your fingers on that it will come out.post-31197-0-51769500-1347895843_thumb.j

and can someone please also tell me what is that wire is for it was sitting underneath my battery. post-31197-0-55131200-1347895998_thumb.j

That sticker was on my disty. :blink:post-31197-0-61853100-1347896034_thumb.j

Thanks everyone you guys are really helpful.

Edit: and also does ground wire on battery suppose to get hot when you're trying to start up your vehicle ?

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You have forgotten which order to put the wires back on the distributor cap?

Look at the distributor cap and you will see little numbers stamped on it. Connect those numbers to the cylinder numbers:

Firewall

1,3,5

,2,4,6

Radiator

If you can't read the numbers on the disty cap, they are probably:

4,5,3 along the top

6,1,2 along the bottom

When you are looking at the disty from the battery.

Just use a small bit of tape to secure that electrical connector in place tightly.

That was good news on the radiator cap.

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Here's your distributor on ebay, complete with cap and rotor, for $120. Notice that it has the same part number as on your sticker.

http://www.ebay.com/...E-/230684080269

I don't know what that white electrical connector under your battery is for. The looms on our cars always have extra wires for options that aren't on all cars. Maybe it's for an auto tranny?

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I am really sorry NickR for late reply was so busy today :smile:

Thanks heapss :biggrin: for providing me link to disty and explaining me numbers I will have a look tomorrow, I am so scared because car is not even starting now. I probably did something wrong with disty :happy: If I put my spark plug cables in wrong order my car will not start ? If so then it makes sense but if it does then :(

and I have no idea what is that extra harness is for :)

I want to ask something, Do you think it'll work if I'll replace only Distributor ? and do other things later maybe after 1 or 2 months ? Because I want to avoid any extra cost, also I will have to save some for registration and whatever parts will cost :smile:

Just one more thing. I asked some wreckers here for disty they said they have it but they're asking $200 plus postage which will be around $20 but thats original came out from car. SO which one do you think I should buy :smile:

THanks again

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Yeah unused connectors under the battery are usually for diagnostics or the auto tranny. That one is definitely not diagnostics related. I think NickR is right about it being a leftover from an automatic transmission harness.

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if your spark plug cables are plugged in wrong, then your car wont start.

so dont worry about it not starting. its probably just the cables.

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Yep. If your spark plug wires are connected wrong, the car very probably won't start. (Sometimes, if only two are connected wrong, it will start but run very badly).

I would say replace the disty first. Get the new one off Ebay. Next replace the plugs and maybe the wires (if they look old).

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Yahooo Got my Disty Out Today....

Here is a picture of distributor just to remember position :smile: and can you also see the oil below disty looks really bad I don't even know where is that coming from is there any way to fix that, Front side is more dirtier then that :biggrin: ? post-31197-0-87338100-1348054470_thumb.j

Do you guys think Spark plug looks alright or I'll need new ones ? post-31197-0-13241000-1348054569_thumb.j

One of my spark plug caps wasn't coming out then I tried forcing it out and that's what came out. :whistle:post-31197-0-29386900-1348054699_thumb.j

This was the reason why it was stuck in. Maybe Engine got very hot. post-31197-0-44681500-1348054826_thumb.j

AIr filter does it look alright ? post-31197-0-10801200-1348054957_thumb.j

Distributor Out. post-31197-0-23378000-1348055092_thumb.j

Distributor Cap. post-31197-0-99867500-1348055222_thumb.j

This is Air Filter housing as Djdevon3 said any AIr leak can cause Accelerator problems, So do you think it can cause any problems ? its broken from back side as shown in picture. :smile:post-31197-0-47537900-1348055294_thumb.j

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The oil leak below the distributor was probably caused by a bad O-ring on the end of the distributor. As you can see in your image the O-ring needs to be replaced. Since you got a new distributor it will hopefully come with a new O-ring on it too. Your spark plugs are filled with oil. That could be due to bad valve seals or blown head gasket. Might want to look into that down the road. You're obviously going to need a new set of ignition wires. No, the crack in the air filter box isn't going to cause any negative impact other than allowing dirt and debris to get past the filter. You want to look for air leaks between the intake manifold and the VAF sensor (located on the intake tubing behind the air filter box). The VAF measures the volume of air going into the intake system. If there is a leak after that then you'll see some driveability issues. The air filter is good doesn't need to be replaced yet. The distributor cap looks ok too.

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The oil leak below the distributor was probably caused by a bad O-ring on the end of the distributor. As you can see in your image the O-ring needs to be replaced. Since you got a new distributor it will hopefully come with a new O-ring on it too. Your spark plugs are filled with oil. That could be due to bad valve seals or blown head gasket. Might want to look into that down the road. You're obviously going to need a new set of ignition wires. No, the crack in the air filter box isn't going to cause any negative impact other than allowing dirt and debris to get past the filter. You want to look for air leaks between the intake manifold and the VAF sensor (located on the intake tubing behind the air filter box). The VAF measures the volume of air going into the intake system. If there is a leak after that then you'll see some driveability issues. The air filter is good doesn't need to be replaced yet. The distributor cap looks ok too.

Thank you Djdevon3.

I will be ordering new Disty next week, I am out of money right now :P and will also order some new wires, can you suggest me any good ones from ebay might order disty and wires together. I did checked for Air leaking between intake manifold and VAF sensor. But it looks fine to me. :smile:

,But I am really worried about oil leak its all over the valve cover. Maybe needs new Valve cover gasket ? I will do these things later right now I want this car running :)

Here is a list of things I want to do now.

1: Replace a radiator cap with new one ( Probably it will fix the coolant leaking issue)

2: Replace a distributor and Cap.

3: Replace spark plugs and cables.

4: Change Oil.

This car hasn't been looked after from last owner so it needs lots of cleaning and work, Can you please suggest me if there is any other things I should do before taking this to streets. THANK YOU :)

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Sure the economical quality wires are the NGK blue. I don't know the model # of the wires for the V6 off the top of my head. You should be able to find them at RockAuto.com or any local auto parts store. Actually I was going to say that part of the oil on the spark plugs is probably from the valve seal or blown head gasket. The oil on the threads though is probably from needing a new valve cover gasket(s) (there are 2 on the V6) so yes add that to your shopping list too.

I always recommend getting a compression test to new 626 owners so you know the health of your cylinders. To make sure she's road worthy most US states require an inspection to be done. That's a really great way to make sure it's road worthy. Other parts of the world such as Australia I'm not familiar with road ready requirements. Take it in for at least a tune up is advisable but seems you are taking care of many tune up items yourself so good job on that. You might want to change out the fuel filter and transmission fluid just to be safe. Again it's best to do as much as you can yourself (or a shop) so you know the status of all the important details for your car.

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Any cars more then 5 years old have to have road worthy test :smile: But they don't really care about your engine problems Oil leaks etc, They'll check your brakes, windscreen damage, mirrors, headlights, Indicators etc, Usually they have really big list to check every shop has their own different, Currently this car is not registered, So before taking it for a road worthy test, I am trying to fix anything I can because once your vehicle is written off from them, Then you'll have to get it repaired within a small time frame (14 days or something), So Yeah :biggrin:

This might be a stupid question but do you know if this particular model supports keyless entry ? Tried searching on internet but no luck :)

Thanks again :thumbsup:

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If you get the ditributor off Ebay, it comes with new O ring, cap and rotor.

That spark plugs looks OK.

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If you get the ditributor off Ebay, it comes with new O ring, cap and rotor.

That spark plugs looks OK.

Thanks NikR, Do you know if 94 v6 hatchback ones are keyless entry ones or not ?

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I've no idea about keyless entry.

ahh thats fine thanks anyway mate :)

Did you do any mods on your car ? Like LED lights etc ? Is it possible to see any pictures of your car :)

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Some E-spec versions did not come with keyless entry. A quick way to find out is to attempt to put the car into the "remote programming mode". There are a few topics around here where it's been discussed before. A search will yield you results.

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Some E-spec versions did not come with keyless entry. A quick way to find out is to attempt to put the car into the "remote programming mode". There are a few topics around here where it's been discussed before. A search will yield you results.

http://mazda626.net/...95/#entry332272

http://mazda626.net/...ly/#entry326310

http://mazda626.net/...rk/#entry324884

Thank you DjDevon3 Definitely can't try now because battery is dead and also can't start engine, I will try later and let you know thanks :)

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Here's a video I made a while ago that shows the procedure. If you get a single chime response after doing the key in/out process then the car will accept a keyless entry remote. ;)

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