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MRCapps

New Owner With Questions

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Last night I purchased a 1984 626 2.0 diesel non turbo. I am pretty happy with my purchase and cant wait to get the little issues fixed up and have it running right. Couple of things, for one, it leaks diesel around the spring for the fuel lever (i am guessing its on top of the injection pump?) Can the seal be replaced or do I need an entire injection pump? Also, at around 68 mph, the engine starts to shake a bit. I am hoping that it is due to not getting the fuel pressure it needs because of the leak. Only way to be sure is to fix the leak and see what happens. Anything else I should start chasing? Also, where is a good place to get parts for these? I need a passenger side rear view mirror but have only found the driver side one... Thanks guys.

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These cars are rare, welcome to the club.

The fuel pump has some known problems with age, Depending on where you live there are different brands and models of IPs fitted. I gather from your expression of speed in MPH you must be in the US or UK.

In Australia our cars had Zexel IPs and they dont seem to have this problem.

The engine shaking at 68mph, that seems very specific speed wise, are you sure this is not a driveline issue, like wheels out of balance or bent, damaged driveshafts or CV joints ?

As for parts like mirrors, check out ebay. I have a collection of parts if things get really desperate, but shipping may not be viable from where I live to you.

Another useful resource for information is: http://autos.groups....elEscortOwners/

The USDM spec 1984-1987 Ford Escort diesel had the same engine as the 626, although the IP is an ND and may or may not be the same as what you have, but otherwise alot of the information is useful and the rest of the engine parts are the same.

What else should you do...replace the cam belt immediately if you dont know when it was last changed. The belts are not expensive (ebay again) and its not overly difficult to change if you have done cam belts before. The RF diesel is an interference motor. In case you are not aware of that term it means if you break the belt its highly likely that the pistons will slam into the valves doing all sorts of damage.

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Well thank you for the information. I am in the U.S. I thought the same thing about the shaking. I pushed in the clutch and let it roll downhill at the same speed and it was smooth which gave me the impression of it being an engine/trans issue. I will have to check into getting a cam belt soon for it. I will also be changing all fluids, tightening all bolts and cleaning up as much as I can. This will be my daily driver as I bought it for a mpg saver since I drive 120 miles a day. I want it to be in great shape and to last a long time. Tonight I will start looking into parts for it on ebay. How many miles do these things last? I got it with a little over 175k on it....

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My WSM says 100,000km ~62k miles.

I dont know how long the motors last. Mine has god roughly the same milage on it as yours and looks to be capable of going for that much again. It depends how well looked after it was.

I replaced my injectors, and if you have one with a faulty spray pattern, or low opening pressure they can cause extra engine vibrations. They only last about 100k miles, and you should get them checked at 50k miles to make sure the opening pressure and spray patterns are good.

Otherwise check that the cooling system is in tip top shape, whatever you do dont let the water level drop, the heads are extremely susceptible to damage through overheating. One overheating event can be enough to warp it.

Check your heater core, these tend to spring leaks when theyre this old. They usually just seep rather than split. I replaced mine this car and the other gas turbo one. 30 odd years for a heater core isnt too bad.

Other than that, keep an eye on your oil pressure, my engine has lousy bearings which put down to oil contamination. The previous owner never changed the injectors and one was quite bad, I suspect the diesel fuel was contaminating the oil and thinning it, which is bad news. These early model engines didnt have a high volume oil pump on them unlike the post '87 ones so bearing wear tends to cause a big drop in oil pressure.

I plan to regrind my crank at some stage. You could put a thicker oil, I went to a 20w-60 from the recommended 15w-40 for one oil change but I noticed that while the oil pressure was better it seemed to cause a slight loss of performance.

Mine also has a sligh oil burn through worn valve stem seals. Its not bad, but I will replace them at some stage too.

I have got ~39 US MPG, although Its dropped closer to 35 the way I usually drive. Some Escort owners claim to get low to mid 40s. I dont know what sort of driving they do, I suspect if you had a flat road where you traveled at a constant 55mph it would be quite good.

Check out my thread over at MX6.com: http://www.mx6.com/forums/mazda-626/237259-chief-tools-new-car-1984-mazda-626-diesel.html

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