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99 Mazda 626 Will Not Start

7 posts in this topic

My husband and I know very little about cars,

our car would not start a few weeks ago and we found out it was the battery, so we replaced it with a brand new one. Now it keeps dying on us, it works fine during the day and then the next day it won't start at all, he thinks it may have something to do with the ac since we have noticed it dying when we use the ac all day, we have tried jumping the battery today and nothing, no clicking sound when we try to turn it on or anything. The lights inside work and the radio, we can't figure out what's wrong, and I haven't found anything online either. Please if anyone has any ideas they would be much appreciated.

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From your description, it seems the alternator isn't keeping up with the electrical demand. It may also have ruined the new battery by not keeping it charged while you are driving. Once you get it started again, check with a voltmeter for at least 13.2 to 14.0 volts at the battery while it is running. If it is less that 13.2 volts, the battery won't charge. Using the a/c requires a lot of amperage, which is why it seemed to run down faster when you used the air.

Otherwise, you may have what is called a "draw" or drain on the battery at night, like an interior light left on or stuck relay, which will kill a battery overnight. I'm going with alternator though.

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sounds exactly like what happened to my M626,.. overhauled my alternator and its all good to go :happy: although im not exactly sure what my mechanic did,.. :mellow:

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My hunch would be a loose or dirty connection at the battery terminals. Because that would also explain why it wouldn't start when you used jumper cables.

But my second guess, like mazdadoc, would be a flat battery due to a bad alternator, because that would also explain why the old battery died. (And maybe the jumper cables didn't work because you didn't get a good connection with the jumper cables, which often happens.)

Buy a cheap ($20 or less) digital multimeter. It can tell you if the battery is flat. It can also tell you if the alternator is charging the battery. Put the red lead on the + battery terminal, and black lead on the - battery terminal. It should read around 12.5 volts, if the battery is good. And it should read (I'm trying to remember) over 13 volts when the engine is running, if the alternator is good.

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I will have my husband check this out when he gets back from work, cross fingers its not an expensive fix! Thanks for the ideas!

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The alternator itself is about $150 ??? (I can't remember exactly). But it is hard to replace, because it is in a difficult place. Maybe 2 hours labour at a garage??

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Alternator! Zoom zoom psshhh :blink:.....

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