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mikefly045

2000 Es-V6 Radiator Fan And Cooling System Questions.

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Hello All,

I've been searching these threads regarding the 626 V6 cooling system and had a few questions regarding my car. First off, I believe everything is working fine with my car's cooling system but I have a few observations and questions:

1. When I first start my car, the cooling guage needle is at or below C on the guage. Approx 5-8 minutes later, as the engine warms up, the needle goes less than half way between the C and H, and remains there during my entire drive. Based on what I've read, this appears fairly normal for the 626.

2. On my radiator fans, the fan on the left (driver's side) turns on when the AC gets turned on, and if the outside temperature is not too warm the fan turns off automatically and may turn on again. If I've been running the car a longer time in warmer temps, the fan stays on, even if the AC is turned off. The needle on the temp guage is still less than half way between the C and H during the entire time period.

3. As for the Right hand fan (Passenger side), I don't seem to ever see it run. I'm not sure if it runs when the temp gets too high on the Temp Guage, but since I almost never see the needle go more than half way between the C and H, I don't know if it's normal for the fan to not turn on. I see a connector on top of the fan assy. Is this the connector I disconnect to see if the fan turns on?

4. We recently had 90 degree days here, and even in stop and go traffic, with AC on, my temp guage was slightly less than half way between the C and H on the Temp Guage, while normally it's quite a bit less than half way between the C and H.

After driving a bit, when I park and open the hood, it's definatly warm, and radiator hoses are warm/hot, but overall, it's does not seem like it's too hot or anything, so I believe the cooling system is working.

My main question is, should I be concerned about the right side radiator fan not running (or not running often)? I have not been able to or seen the engine (or temp guage) hot enough to see if the right side fan turns on or not.

Thanks or any advice,

Mike

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Here's a simple way to test if that fan itself (plus the relay) is working: see the Coolant Temperature Sensor? It's a 2-wire sensor, normally green or grey, at the end of the fuel injector rails, next to the timing belt cover (there's a smaller 1-wire sensor for the temperature gauge just beside it). Disconnect the 2-wire CTS and start the engine. Both fans should come on.

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Thanks for the advice. I disconnected the wire harness right at the CTS, and started the engine, and only the driver side fan came on, and the passenger side fan did not turn on at all. The CEL light is still on even after reconnecting, so I need to reset it. I believe I can disconnect battery negative cable and step brake for 30 seconds. I guess next step is relay and fan direct to battery checkout. Is the radiator fan assy hard to replace if it comes to that? What's interesting is i don't have any overheating issues, even in warm weather.

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Hmmm. I know that test works on the 93-97 626's, and I would be very surprised if it didn't work the same way on the 98-02 626's, but I'm not 100% sure. And my daughter has borrowed my 626 at the moment (while I fix her VW) so I can't try it on my 626.

Don't replace the fan yet. Most probably it's a relay. IIRC there are 3 relays for the fans in the fuse box under the hood. You could try swapping them around, to see which one works which fan, and which one is bust. (There are 3 relays for 2 fans because 1 relay controls the high vs low speed for one of the fans). Or you can test the relays with a multimeter. Or you can stick a 30amp(?) fuse in place of the relay, and see if the fan comes on.

(Do you know how relays work? A relay is just a switch, that is controlled electrically. It has 4 pins. When 12 volts flows across 2 of the pins, an electromagnet is activated which turns a switch on that connects the other 2 pins. So if you test it with a multimeter, you should find continuity (low ohms) across 2 of the pins, and no continuity (very high ohms) across any other pair of pins. And you should hear a click when you put 12 volts across the 2 pins with continuity. But it's easier to just swap them around, to figure out which ones are working.)

Yep, disconnect battery and press brake for 10 seconds to delete codes (make sure there isn't an anti-theft code for the radio, but there isn't on mine). Or just wait, and the CEL will eventually go out by itself.

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Thanks Nick for your advise. I plan to connect the fan directly to a 12V power supply to see if that runs. I have a 12V battery that I can use. If this works, then I'll start swapping replays. I'm familiar with relays and have a multimeter as well. I may even connect the multimeter to the fan wiring connector on the car side and see if I can read 12V. I can experiment around and let you all know of the results. Hopefully it's just a bad relay...if this is the case, I'll just order some and replace them easily.

If it is the fan, I'll most likely replace the fan assy myself with a friend, depending how hard it is to do the job. I've never really worked on cars, so I'm fairly new at this, but at the same time, I have technical skills, so hopefully this will be helpful.

I need to find a good repair manual, and in the meantime, my car does run fairly cool, so I'll just have to keep monitoring the engine.

Again, thanks for your help! This is really a great forum!

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To the OP:

I just typed up a really long detailed post in the I4 section. I'm going to re-work it this evening and make it into a tutorial for testing the fans.

Cliffnotes:

There's two fans. The one on the drivers side of the engine is the cooling fan. The one towards the passenger is the condenser fan. When the AC is off and under normal driving conditions, the cooling fan (drivers) will only turn on when the coolant hits a certain temperature. Under normal driving conditions this will rarely turn on as the air flow over the radiator will keep the coolant with the desired temperature range. In heavy stop/go traffic or prolonged idling, the fan will turn on to draw air across the radiator.

When you turn on the AC, the cooling fan always turns on. If the AC is on the cooling fan should be on. There is the occasional time where it won't be on (cold weather) but for the most part the fan on the drivers side will be on when your AC is on. The fan on the passenger side is the condenser fan. This fan will turn on and off in unison with the compressor. When the compressor kicks on, the fan kicks on. It keeps air flowing over the condenser and the compressor. Ever notice when you're driving with the AC on and it gets colder as you drive? That's why.

Unplugging the coolant temp sensor will throw a CEL trouble code. Pretty much every car with a coolant temp sensor will turn on both fans if this is not connected. It works on my '87 Celica and also on my '89 Celica with a '99 JDM imported motor. It's a failsafe in place to keep the car from overheating.

Test the fans, test the wiring, test the relays. I'll post something later tonight with detailed pictures and an EDU on how to fully troubleshoot and repair cooling fan problems.

Here's my post in the I4 section

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4thgenceli; good and useful post. One minor thing: on 93-97 models the two fans are the other way around -- the main cooling fan is on the passenger side. Just in case someone with a 93-97 uses this for help.

mike: the only difficult thing about replacing a fan is getting access. IIRC (I did it on my old 93) it's just a question of removing 4 10mm bolts, and they are a bit hard to reach if you don't remove the radiator. If you remove the 2 bolts that attach the top of the radiator to the frame, you can move the radiator a little. (The radiator just lifts up if you remove those 2 bolts on top.)

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Thanks NickR.

I was just speculating since the diagrams/manuals I have access to really don't specify which is which so I figured both where the same. If it's mounted anything like the I4 fan shroud, removing the upper radiator mounts, the 4 bolts with a 10mm 1/4" socket and sliding it toward the driver fender, rotating it 45 degrees then sliding it back over to the passenger side before rotating it another 45 degrees will let the whole shroud assembly come out without (many) issues. Just keep in mind to move the tranny cooler lines and wiring before trying to move or turn the shroud.

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Thanks all for the advice. I have not had a chance to do any troubleshooting yet due to my work schedule, but when I get off work, I want to hook a DC Volt meter up to the fan wiring harness (after disconnecting from fan's harness) for the passenger side fan and see if I can read voltage (I believe it should read approx 12 volts DC?).

Also, how long does it take for the CEL to go off on it's own. I did not have a chance to diconnect the negative battery terminal yet for ECU reset, but I may be able to do so this afternoon. I'll keep everyone updated on what I find.

This is such a great website/forum....with the advice of the forum, I hope to keep my car well into 200K mile range (I have 121K trouble free miles now).

Again, thanks for everyone's help!!! I'll pictures of my car shortly too.

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I think it should give 12 volts DC.

I'm not sure how long it will take the cel to go out. Maybe a couple of kilometers?

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I had more time to troubleshoot my cooling fans yesterday after work. I disconnected the wiring harness from the passenger side fan, and even when turning on the AC, I did not read the 12-14 volts. To compare, I also disconnected the wiring to the driver side fan, and as soon as I turned the AC on, I read approx 14.3 volts, then turned off the AC, and volts went to zero. I reconnected the drivers side fan back up. As for the passenger side fan, I took a 12Volt RC Airplane Li-Po battery and connected directly to the fan, and it worked! Now, I can at least eliminate the fan assembly as being the issue. The next step is checking the relays. My concern is the relays (relay covers) seem very difficult to remove. I may order new relays prior to checking them out, in case any get damaged. I see that they only cost approx $5-6 each, so not too expensive.

As for the CEL, it still did not go off, even after multiple drive cycles and 60 miles, so I went to Autozone, and they let me borrow their scanner, and I was able to clear the code that had to do with me disconnecting the coolant temp sensor. It was the only code, so I felt comfortable clearing it. I'll end up buying my own scanner soon anyways.

This morning, I decided to do a reset of the ECU by pulling the negative battery lead, and creating a fresh profile of my driving habits. Since my radio is easy to program, I just reprogrammed it during the 3 minutes of idling after restarting the car. The negative battery terminal was in need of cleaning, so this was a good opportunity to clean it. Knock on wood...the car is running very very smooth, including smooth idling as well. I'm halfway through my tank with the Redline Si-1 injector cleaner (Similar to Techron Plus), and I check my oil every other day during this treatment to ensure no problems. I'll get an oil change in a few weeks anyways.

I'll update when I'm done troubleshooting the relays.

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You seem to be working through this very methodically. Good to hear the fan itself is OK.

I just checked my 2000 626. I noticed 2 things:

There are 3 grey relays just next to the fusebox, that I think are for the fans. (There are 3 fan relays in nearly the same plce, except inside the fuse box, in my 94 MX6 V6.)

There are a couple of 30 amp fuses inside the fusebox, that say "cooling fan" and "AD fan".. My *guess* is that they are for the fans. You might want to check your "AD fan" fuse.

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Hi all,

Here is a problem I have...

Mazda Millenia 2002, 2.5 KL, 145k miles, original owner. Never had any problems with the car.

Recently in a hot summer day staying in traffic I noticed the engine is overheating.

Pulled over, open the hood: condenser fan (passenger side) is working with AC on but radiator cooling fan is off.

As soon I turned AC off, both fans began working normally till temperature dropped.

During next few days I did next:

1. Check both fans by connecting them directly to battery - both are OK;

2. Replace temperature switch - no changes;

3. Check all fuses - all are OK;

4. Bought an extra relay for "swapping" purpose - no changes;

5. Finally with starter on key position, disconnected thermal sensor - only condenser fan is kicking in (passenger side), and radiator cooling fan is not.

Regardless to all of these radiator cooling won't work if AC is on.

Any suggestion?

Thanks. 

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On 28/07/2014 at 20:22, ltivarovsky said:

Olá a todos,

Aqui está um problema que tenho ...

Mazda Millenia 2002, 2,5 KL, 145 km, proprietário original. Nunca tive problemas com o carro.

Recentemente, em um dia quente de verão no trânsito, notei que o motor está superaquecendo.

Puxado, abra o capô: a ventoinha do condensador (lado do passageiro) está funcionando com o AC ligado, mas o ventilador do radiador está desligado.

Assim que desliguei o AC, os dois fãs começaram a trabalhar normalmente até a temperatura cair.

Nos próximos dias eu fiz o seguinte:

1. Verifique ambos os ventiladores conectando-os diretamente à bateria - ambos estão OK;

2. Substitua o interruptor de temperatura - sem alterações;

3. Verifique todos os fusíveis - todos estão OK;

4. Comprou um revezamento extra para fins de "troca" - sem alterações;

5. Finalmente, com a partida na posição da chave, o sensor térmico desconectado - somente o ventilador do condensador está sendo chutado (lado do passageiro), e o ventilador do radiador não está.

Independentemente de todos esses resfriamentos do radiador não funcionarão se a AC estiver ligada.

Alguma sugestão?

Obrigado. 

I have the same problem! Were you able to solve the problem?

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