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How To Change Valve Gaskets On A M626 1.8 16V 1998 Manual?

15 posts in this topic

Hey,

I am having trouble with my 626 GF 1.8 16v 1998, manual...european model. It is eating oil quite a lot.

When I first bought it from a turkish guy "Mohammed Ali"... the oil level was low and I did not pay attention to it, because it was in a normal limit and there were no leaks on the engine. I drove it for about 2 months when the oil lamp turned on two times for a second and then off again. I went immediately to the shop to buy new oil and filter to change them. The big surprise was when I let down the old oil, and it came out only 800-900 ml instead of 3.7 as it should.

After this, every morning when i drive to work, it comes out white smoke with oil smell. It stops after about 30 seconds up to 1 min.

So when the engine stays off for more than 3-4 hours, some oil is leaking somewhere through a gasket.

Then I started to ask questions about the problem: where does the oil go if not outside!?

I have checked the coolant for any oil spots and it was clean, the spark plugs were dry, the bindings as well. So i went to the workshop for a compression test, which ended up OK.

I have also bought a complete set of gaskets.

I am pretty sure that the problem is one or more of the "simering" sealing gasket, i don´t know the english terms for that, but they are at the top of the valve. I don´t know how to upload a picture here for better accuracy.

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Valve cover gasket has nothing to do with the car burning oil. You need to have the head serviced by a machine shop unless you want to do it yourself. Sorry there are no 1998-2002 workshop manuals available online that I know of.

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Can I please contact you by mail or Skype? If so, give me your mail adress or Skype name, so I can upload a picture of what i mean. Otherwise, my english is not so good in mechanical terms.

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Sorry I only provide support through the public forums so that everyone else here can participate and learn from issues. I'm pretty sure you mean a blown head gasket and not a valve cover gasket. A head gasket is completely different from a valve cover gasket. I believe Wiking is from Denmark and he could probably help you out in your native Danish language. Contact Wiking he is skilled and can probably help you.

If you have a question about a section in the head removal or reassembly videos let me know. The 1.8L isn't going to be exactly the same but the procedure is very similar. Unfortunately those here in North American have no experience with the 1.8L because we never received that version of the 626. The 1.8L was only available in Europe, Asia, and Australia.

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Well, I am Romanian, but I live in Denmark :). The thing is... I have made many operations on Opel Vectra, Ford Focus and a little on Mazda, but never inside the engine. So my question is...: can I do this operation at home and do I need any special tools? Or is it something I can do with a "regular tool box"?

I saw on your tutorial no.5 that you took off the 2 axels, and just before you took out the spark plugs you could see what you call the HLAs. I think there is my problem. There is a head gasket inside, right?

I took also some pics of my engine some minutes ago, they are uploaded here.

post-30913-0-16580300-1342385590.jpg

post-30913-0-10595000-1342385823_thumb.j

post-30913-0-38698500-1342385827_thumb.j

post-30913-0-43922700-1342385831_thumb.j

post-30913-0-90565300-1342385835_thumb.j

post-30913-0-74451600-1342385839_thumb.j

post-30913-0-46291700-1342385842_thumb.j

post-30913-0-41629800-1342385847_thumb.j

post-30913-0-64460400-1342385851_thumb.j

post-30913-0-32245300-1342385855_thumb.j

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The first picture shows what I want to change, I am sure there is my problem! Can anyone tell me the name of that?

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The first picture shows both the head gasket and valve cover gasket. The head gasket is between the head and block. The valve cover gasket is attached to the valve cover also known as the engine cover gasket in different countries. Here in North America we call it the valve cover gasket.

Changing it is a very simple process and would be the same as the 2.0L. I looked for a tutorial on the 2.0L replacement but couldn't find anything which is a big surprise. I'll put that on my list of videos to make.

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Devon, in that picture he's talking about I think he's referring to the extra bit he drew where he seems to be pointing at HLAs or something...

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Devon,

I took pictures of the gaskets I´ve got in the set. I think it´s 99% chance that the oil leaks into the engine through the "valve seals/gaskets", which you can see at pic no.5 .

There are NO oil spots in the coolant.

The oil is NOT leaking outside the engine, not even a drop.

The coolant does NOT dissapear.

The white smoke that comes out from the exhaust when the car did not start minimum 3-4 hours...smells like burned oil.

I fill in about 300 ml oil every week.

The sparks are dry.

Please note that the cylinder head gasket is 100% the same like yours, regarding the 2 small covered holes which you saw on yours. Mine has also 3 layers, so it is correct. It is written "VICTOR REINZ" on it.

I´ll try to name them how I know it:

1. Cover gasket ( it has a code on it: FS01)

post-30913-0-43391300-1342548310_thumb.j

2. Cylinder head gasket

post-30913-0-37264000-1342548437_thumb.j

3. Intake gasket

post-30913-0-24908400-1342548630_thumb.j

4. Exhaust gasket

post-30913-0-16680900-1342548501_thumb.j

5. Valve seals/gaskets

post-30913-0-16251100-1342549007_thumb.j

The set contains also a few more rings and a gasket (i think it´s from the coolant binding in the right side of the engine, the one you said in your tutorial that it looks very nice after you took it out), but these are not important for my problem.

The gasket set was made in Spain by Dana Corporation www.glaser.es

This is the result of the compression test:post-30913-0-75112500-1342549816_thumb.j

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The compression specs for the FP and FS European version is 15.0 bar (213 PSI) maximum. Minimum is 10.5 bar (150 PSI). The biggest allowable difference between cylinders is 1.9 bar (28 PSI).

Cylinder #1: 13.2 bar (193 PSI)

Cylinder #2: 12.8 bar (188 PSI)

Cylinder #3: 12.0 bar (176 PSI)

Cylinder #4: 12.2 bar (179 PSI)

Difference between cylinder #1 and #4: 1.2 bar (17 PSI)

Looks like your problem is coming from cylinders #3 and #4. When you see 2 cylinders directly next to each other that are producing low compression it usually means a blown head gasket. You could have bad valve seals and piston rings too so don't rule that out. Also bad cam timing can produce faulty compression results. Make sure your engine is in time before a compression test is done otherwise it will completely negate the results you get.

It is possible to remove the head yourself and reinstall everything just as I did in the video. I did not work on the valves myself. I sent them to a machine shop and recommend anyone else to do the same. Leave valve jobs to the professionals to ensure the best results. Yes you can do it yourself if you are determined but don't expect professional results.

Here is the workshop manual which includes the FP & FS engine. 1997 Mazda 626 European WSM I hope that helps you with any questions you might have about specifications.

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Thank you for your fast answer and info!

But as you said, the max allowed difference between the cylinder pressure is 1.9 bar. Mine is 1.2, which is in the normal limit, I suppose. A mechanic where I took the test said it looks very good :rolleyes:. Timing is ok on the engine.

Hopefuly the problem is at the cylinder head gasket or valve seals, which I can manage with!

I will consult with the manual and see if I can get more info out of it and I´ll get back with new info or solved problem by the end of the week.

Do you think I can get another set of cylinders or cylinder rings from a scrap yard? I wouldn´t count on that but it´s a possibility.

PS: did you notice what I wrote regarding your cylinder head gasket?

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Using junkyard rings is a gamble. If the head hasn't been removed and there is no rust on the rings then you can probably use them. Just make sure to inspect them really well with a caliper or micrometer. I know rings are expensive but honestly when it comes to internal engine parts I would only go with new parts. If the rings blow then you'll be right back to tearing down the head again and you'll wish you did it right the first time.

Yes I saw your comment on my youtube channel and I responded.

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It´s not about the comment on youtube! It is about your dillema on your cylinder head gasket. You said and showed that 2 of the small holes in your gasket were covered up and you did not know if it was right or wrong. And as I saw on my new gasket, it is the same...in one side they are covered.

Try to see here:post-30913-0-81480400-1342558295_thumb.j

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Oh yes that. I figured that out soon after I made the video that they are plugged on purpose to raise the pressure of the coolant. I'm not sure why they made those passages to begin with only to block them off with the gasket. Perhaps an engineer made a miscalculation on the flow of the coolant or the water pump wasn't as strong as they'd hoped. Who knows.

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Do your valvestem-seals first (they're called 'paraplyer' in danish), you can change them without removing the head. Hopefully that'll fix your leak.

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