RacerX

'93 626 Lemon Racer

1,749 posts in this topic

Good, then I have Mazda 6 wheels. I thought they were.

I checked the size of the tires mounted on the Mazda6 wheels. They are 215/50's. The 215/45's mounted on the Millenia wheels (55mm offset) clear the Sach's struts. I don't think 215/45 on the Mazda6 wheels will clear these struts.

So it looks like I will be buying a set of the Ichiba Hub Centric 15mm wheel spacers. That should give plenty of clearance for the back of the Mazda 6 wheels and the Millenia wheels should still fit without "rolling" the lips of the fenders.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Those of you that that race Lemons, I saw they recommend DOM cages over ERW but accept either. ERW much cheaper so I want to use that. Do they give you are hard time at the safety check with ERW cages? Last thing I want is to get there race day and get rejected. What else have you seen they are a pain about, noise, emmisions?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Those of you that that race Lemons, I saw they recommend DOM cages over ERW but accept either. ERW much cheaper so I want to use that. Do they give you are hard time at the safety check with ERW cages? Last thing I want is to get there race day and get rejected. What else have you seen they are a pain about, noise, emmisions?

I think they release the 2013 rules at the end of November. You might want to wait until then to do your cage. Their rules evolve annually. It would suck to do something this week or next and have the rules change right under you. They "highly recommend" DOM tubing and many expect them to make it the rule in the coming year or two. From what I understand, the price difference in materials is $100-$200. I had my cage built with 1 3/4" DOM tubing.

No problems with noise. Just put a glass pack on it and they will be cool with it. I ran 2" exhaust from the stock header back with 2 glass packs in series. I originally put a 3" exhaust on it with one glass pack, but that was ridiculously loud and the motor liked to rev too much. I did the 2 glass packs to create a little back pressure and keep all the low end torque at the sacrifice of a little high end HP. It worked.

Here's a link to a good description of the car as raced initially.

http://mazda626.net/...120#entry339296

The only issue we had with tech was the rear back stays from the main loop. The race fab shop ran them to the floor under the rear seat base where the rear cross member bolts to the uni-body. This was pretty reasonable and met the letter of the rules. However, the tech inspector didn't like how narrow the backs stays were connected to the main loop. He wanted them to come out further to the corners of the main loop and terminate at the rear strut towers, even though this meant the rear stays would be less then 45 degrees. He passed the car for the first race and had us add a second set of back stays from the outer corners of the main loop to the rear strut towers for the second race.

The location to mount the kill switch is less than obvious. I ended up mounting it on the A-pillar. All of my drivers can reach it there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oooops how dare I almost forget He responsible for many smiles upon my face ^_^

RacerX thank you for recomending the 98-02 mazda 626 rear sway bar upgrade for the 4th gen 626 :D

I love it

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey, I was the one that recommended it to him. I think in this very thread even. lol. It really is something everyone should do. there hella cheap and easy to toss on.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Would it be worth upgrading my stock '01 sway bar? I hate the roll in my car so I shudder to think what it must be like for a stock GE.

Is there a direct bolt on upgrade for mine?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You already have the larger bar. If you wanted to upgrade, You would need to go aftermarket like the Addco bar or along those lines.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here in the states, all our 626 front sway bars are 26mm and our '01's have a 17mm rear sway bar. If you are getting lots of body roll and you struts are in reasonable shape, I assume your rear bar is something less than that, or your end links are bad.

Both of these companies sell 19mm aftermarket rear sway bars and should fit. But, if you already have 17mm rear bar, I doubt it will make a big diff.

http://www.king6fab.com/626.html

http://store.awrracing.com/sway-bar-626-mx-6-probe-1993-1997-19mm-rear/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just got a PC with enough horsepower to crunch the data in the huge HD gopro video files. So, I finally put together a compilation video of the first race. My teammates never shared pointers to their video highlights, so I worked with the highlights from Bonnie's and my stints.

I also uploaded a similar version with background music to the team facebook page.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=180118892126488

Still doing some prep on the race car. Replaced rear rotors/pads, driver side front control arm, outer tie-rod end, rotor, and pads.

Storing the car with just water in the cooling system had already taken it's toll on the water pump seals. I noticed them leaking badly. So I also replaced the water pump.

Currently, I am cleaning the throttle body and replacing the IAC. I found a great deal for a IAC on RockAuto. Although I discovered why it was so cheap. It doesn't include a base gasket. It did come with a gasket, but it was a EGR valve base gasket. Go figure.

img-349978-1-20121124_140944.jpg

While I have the throttle body off, I cleaned up the heater hose by-pass and removed/crimped the exhaust pipe to the EGR valve. Removing the exhaust pipe and crimping it is easier then blocking off the EGR valve. Doing so reduces the heat and gunk build up in the intake, injector tips, throttle body, and IAC.

img-349978-2-20121124_154041.jpg

We are also updating our theme/paint scheme. We are sticking with the Mini Cooper Saloon theme. But, one of the LeMons judges mentioned that his wife owns a Mini Cooper and it is yellow. In his opinion, "all Mini's should be yellow". So as a surprise for the next race, we're gonna show up to tech/BS inspections with a yellow Mini Cooper Saloon with ghost Union Jack roof graphics to match the BS judge's wife's Mini.

img-349978-3-20121124_140850.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have the car put back together with the new water pump and IAC. The idle is smooth once again and the pump seals are all good. I also finished freshening up the rotors and pads. I also installed a $35 front strut brace I bought off ebay. It's quality is suspect but it can't be any worse than nothing, especially after we took the hit to the drivers front quarter panel.

Three coats of Rustoleum and the car looks very yellow now with none of the green showing through. We'll mask and paint the roof black next. We will re-do the Union Jack on the roof in silver and white duct tape. This paint/graphic scheme matches one of the LeMons judge's wife's car. He jokes with us each time he sees us that Mini's are yellow. So, we are giving him a yellow Mini for the next BS inspection. I'm betting we get 0 laps yet again. Of course, we probably would have gotten 0 laps without the paint job. But, what's the fun in that?

I still need to install the tach and fuel gauge so I can ditch the factory gauge cluster. After that, a new front end alignment and we are good to race.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did you end up using any Water Wetter in the radiator, or just straight water?

That painting project almost looks like fun. Almost.. ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No I was lazy and left straight water in it. The water pump seals didn't last six months. Lesson learned, the plan is to keep a 50/50 mix in the car for storage and swap for straight water on the race weekend. My Dad told me the other day that they used to put a splash of brake fluid in the water when he worked in the motor pool with the National Guard. I'd use a bottle of water wetter before I would try that. I may try it for the next race. They don't check it during inspection.

I am digging the yellow. I had planned to paint over it when we re-themed for next year. But, it's grown on me. So, I'll have to plan a theme that is compatible with it. I was thinking of doing the D.B. Cooper Saloon next year. I could get a surplus parachute and hang a foot or two of it out from under the rear trunk and glue down some "monopoly" money poking out from the trunk and rear doors. I could dress in a dark suit and sunglasses with a parachute pack strapped to my back and the rest of the team could dress as airline pilots and flight attendants. Anyone have other suggestions?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

BTW, I started up the car and ran it long enough to come up to temp and open the thermostat. When I turned off the car, I reached around the back of the motor to reconnect the lead to the oil pressure gauge. I expected it to be quite hot back there. To my surprise, the intake manifold was still cool to the touch on the underside.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My Dad told me the other day that they used to put a splash of brake fluid in the water when he worked in the motor pool with the National Guard. I'd use a bottle of water wetter before I would try that.

Lol my friend's dad told us that they used to wash their cars with kerosene as well. I don't know if he was thinking of the army trucks from when he was in Nam or what! Needless to say, his wife's Beetle has very dull paint from where he used a Scotch Brite pad and kerosene to remove road tar... :rofl:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Awesome paint job but you forgot to mask off the tail lights. Thank you for the video. It was extremely enjoyable to watch a 626 get it on around the track.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The tracks require we taped the lenses with clear packing tape. So we will place the tape when we are done painting.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That makes sense. Probably so if you get hit, and they get broke, the pieces dont fall on the track and become a potential danger to blowing a tire.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How is the engine holding up?

And how are similar cars doing?

I ran across this article on a different forum and they were talking about how the Mazda I4s and V6s don`t do well at these races. They are vague in their description of what exactly goes wrong, but I would imagine that a well prepared car with some auxilary cooling and maybe an extra oil sump with a secondary pump both remotely located (if all these items are allowed in the race) would be trouble free.

http://blog.caranddriver.com/lemons-wisdom-vs-conventional-wisdom-17-cars-that-should-dominate-but-dont-camaro-supra-gti%E2%80%94ahoy/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The motor is doing good so far. The V6 may be more problematic. Take those articles with a grain of salt. I'd bet the average probe or 626 isn't half as prepped as the average BMW, miata, or Alfa.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Definitely learning a lot here from this thread! I just picked up a 1995 626 V6 for $400. You might see a KL LeMons car running around the track next year...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You'd better take some video then. I'd love to see that. Really enjoying RacerX's 626 pass Porche 911's on the track. You would be in a different class with the KL though and would be up against much bigger motors.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@ RacerX

That is what I was thinking about the article after rereading it. What I didn`t take into consideration is the variation of preparation for different cars by different teams. I don`t see why a well sorted 626 I4 or V6 wouldn`t do well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now