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I had 4 gallons of c10 lying in the storage room - so figured why not.

 

It was a mix of 4 gallons of c10 and probably 3 gallons of 93 - so that's probably what.... 99-100 octane?

 

on 93 it should do no less than 320-330 whp @ 12 psi.  Just not so aggressive timing.

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Just take the t-belt tensioner off, and use a jack to compress it by holding it between the jack and one of the crossmembers under the car. You then slide a pin into a hole in it to keep it compresse

I always forget to update this thread - and I'm sorry.   It lives!  pig rich on idle, but that's just tuning that I need to take care of.   And just because it was working - a small update on

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That's cool, I've never had a need to run race gas before.  I'm not sure how the octane mixing rating works.

 

Still, that's got to move in a nice weight car like that.  Lots of new cars are coming with big hp numbers from the factory, but they have some serious weight associated with them, too.

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Honestly - first time I really put the ol' schtick to it - it scared me pretty good.  Torque Steering isn't normally this bad - but when you don't expect it to literally rip the wheel out of your hand.... welll..... you get the point.

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That's a beefcake of a P5.  Congratulations!  Not a fan of the paper mache stuff on the bumper.  MCM only did that because their paint job was ruined anyway and they didn't give a crap about that car.  You have way too nice of a paint job to go do that.  Looks way out of place, sticks out like a sore thumb.  Just my opinion, keep it clean.  Great job on the intake manifold.  Looks very clean.  What kind of paint did you use?

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Occasionally clean it with soap and water either a sponge or wet towel.  If you let oil get on it eventually it will bubble up the paint where oil seeps into the paint.  Oil will eventually get on it just from fumes in the engine bay.  It will require occasional cleaning. Doesn't look like you have a problem with regular cleaning and maintenance though.  Looking good in there.

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it's filthy as of now.  I figured my last batch of vc gaskets could handle the job, but alas..... they aren't.  Leaky and drippy are getting replaced soon.

 

Anyone with more experience on which set of vcg's to pick up next?  I've tried OEM - they lasted 2 NA builds, but went kaputt as soon as they saw some boost.

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I'd probably ask on ProbeTalk, or the Probe FB page.  I can't think of any active members on here besides you with a turbo KL.

 

I wonder if you could just lightly torque the valve cover more?  That seems like a dangerous game, though.  Or possibly some RTV gasket maker/sealer?

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it's filthy as of now.  I figured my last batch of vc gaskets could handle the job, but alas..... they aren't.  Leaky and drippy are getting replaced soon.

 

Anyone with more experience on which set of vcg's to pick up next?  I've tried OEM - they lasted 2 NA builds, but went kaputt as soon as they saw some boost.

 

You need to vent the crankcase pressure UPSTREAM of the turbo (or run a catchcan).  Otherwise, you will have gaskets blowing out all over the place (including the crank main seals).  You may have done that (I didn't go back and re-read this thread, it's been a while since I looked at it) already.  If that's not the cause, then make sure you use a thin film of RTV on both faces all the way around (this works like a charm for me), torque them down slowly and evenly, then recheck torque a few times over the next few drives.

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upstream of the turbo?   Please enlighten me - as that seems like something I havent even thought of.

 

A catch can - yeah.  That'd get me vented and recapture the spent oil, but I don't think it's a very plausible "endgame" plan.  I'd rather vent my crankcase pressure properly, but being that it's been done several times already - loads infact - I'd like to hear your plan Snail!  

 

I tried torquing it down a bit more tonight - it worked for the backside leak that's lowest on the cover, but didn't even touch the leak on teh front.

 

Next?

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upstream of the turbo?   Please enlighten me - as that seems like something I havent even thought of.

 

A catch can - yeah.  That'd get me vented and recapture the spent oil, but I don't think it's a very plausible "endgame" plan.  I'd rather vent my crankcase pressure properly, but being that it's been done several times already - loads infact - I'd like to hear your plan Snail!  

 

I tried torquing it down a bit more tonight - it worked for the backside leak that's lowest on the cover, but didn't even touch the leak on teh front.

 

Next?

 

 

If you vent downstream of the turbo (between the turbo and intake valves), you are pressurizing your entire block with the turbo pressure.  That adds lets say another 15 PSI, which is a whole atmosphere.  You will be popping seals and leaking oil all the time.  Your engine is now basically a big balloon full of hot air.

 

The idea with having the PCV vent back into the intake is to burn off the blow-by gases.  On the stock motor, the vent is just upstream of the throttle, which is simply atmospheric pressure (well, a little below, but not much in most cases).  Moving it upstream of the turbo brings it back to stock, in that you are back to near atmospheric pressure (or just slightly below).

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Ihone, a catch can isn't a hack solution, you put it in line with the PCV, and it just strains all the crap out of the "air" mixture being vented into your intake tract, just like Snailman recommend. I wouldn't do it any other way.

Just ask the intake valves on my MS6, you don't want that oily nasty crap in your intake side of things. It's coated the inside of my turbo inlet, intercooler, throttle body, and intake manifold, not to mention caked the intake valves.

I didn't think of this earlier since my car is setup like that from the factory. I haven't figured it all out yet. Or much of it at all. :P

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I must be dense tonight, guys.

 

After reading Snail's post - I'm still confused.  So, please let me know if this is what you're talking about - 

 

Vent it to a spot PRE-turbo?  Pre-boost?  

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  • 3 years later...

HELP HELP klze p5 build guy in need. My setup will be a lil diff. I have the curved neck kl31 101 1a1, running a pnpms2 with aemsmartcoil w/ quadspark , probe trans lightened flywheel, actdualstage clutch 
more will come lator but any wiring pics and info any of you have will be greatly appreciated. the pnpms2 ecu changes a few things but I want to run my 93 probe wiring harness on klze p5 the basic way to get it running Then add quadspark and othe stuff lator to stop confusion and I'm not referring to the cluster. I need to know what p5 wires stay and what gets deleted same on the 93 probe wiring harness being that we don't need all the emissions crap. do I tap probe charging wires to p5jbox or run separate? and the fuel pump what was done to run your fuelpump? did you run dedicated or use the p5 wiring but with probe fuelpump wired in the protege5 fb place? I know alot about auto wiring but this makes it diff being that its obd2 car but adding in an obd type standalone to an engine that used half the harness that the usdm kl used. PEASE HELP lol

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