Jump to content

Zepticon's Worklog (626 And Rx-7)


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Haha i would do the same to get a chance to scavenge in your scrapyards! Here they are shit and there is never anything juicy! Was at it yesterday aswell, and after 3 hours in the garage, i managed t

So a small update from me. Just had the 626 at the biennial vehicle test, and passed it with more or less flying colors :) I only had an error with the passeger side safety belt not working properly,

Tried some Autoslalom today :D

Posted Images

So i was set for a lot of error testing on saturday, and nothing went as expected. Since i cranked the battery empty earlier in the week i had it on charging so it was full. I went out and put it back in.

I then disconnected the fuel pump to make sure the cylinders was not flodded with fuel. Then turn the key, and the car fire right up! Ofcourse it dies quickly again due to the fuel in the system running out.
Then iconnect the fuel pump and cranks again. The same symptomes as earlier, and the car wont fire, but it soudns like its very close.
Next i disconenct the temp sensors and try again. After a litt cranking and throttle use it starts up. I plug in the sensor again and nothing changes.

I let it cool down and start it up again saturday night, sunday morning and now in the evening, and it fires straight up without any issues what so ever. I starts so fast i dont even hear the starter before its running.

What the shit is wrong with it :S

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

Holy crap, did you have to sell your house? That's an awesome box of OEM goodness!

Think it was about 800 dollars, 50 different parts, and in total 134 items  :D About even between 626 and RX7.

Got a FPR, temp sensor and knock sensor for the 626, and those was a bit pricy, but not to much over a premium aftermarket.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, it's easy to complain about the price of OEM parts, but how often do the cheap replacements last for 15 years and 150k miles?

Exactly! My aftermarket temp sensor lasted 2 years. This was 10 dollar more and will last much longer:) and from amayama its so cheap its really no question since i get shipping no matter if i order from The US or Japan:)

And they managed to get it shipped here in only 4 days!

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Finally i got the RX-7 put back together. New 99-spec front, some nice bits under the hood, including new vacuum hoses.
Just in time for the yearly Japanese car meeting. Even managed to score 1st place for best shine! :D

13580478_614594945375352_3974868220332579620_o.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

So, while the RX7 have been in the garage all summer, only getting 50km of roadtime, there has been little love for the 626.
But i managed to get a small mod in:

Before:
13938390_10210598448741465_293313840950916790_n.jpg

After:
13906729_10210598448821467_9103189404317282737_n.jpg

 

It has the rare "Diamond" badge that came before the evolution to the "toilet bowl":
mazda-logo-evolution.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 months later...

Long time since any updates. Not much ahve happened to the 626, but i have managed to buy myself an apartment!. Now i have a (shared) garage to put the RX in during the winter, and a spot outside my place for the 626. And my own shed!

I also got some help by a friend to fix some rust on my rear fender. He is a professional painter/detailer, and did an epic job here! I can hardly see anything after he was done!

1.jpg

2.jpg

3.jpg

4.jpg

5.jpg

6.jpg

7.jpg

8.jpg

9.jpg

10.jpg

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Awesome update on both cars! Just a heads up, if your 626 is anything like mine was, I barely had a little rust starting in the driver's side fender, but I had a hole in the unibody frame where the rear subframe bolts on. It's tucked way up in there and would be hard to reach. If you plan to keep her, just keep a close eye on the underside, too! ;)

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 9-8-2016 at 11:33 PM, PrinceValorum said:

I noticed once when I took the grille out of mine that behind the chrome toilet bowl, the cutaway behind the emblem was actually square.  I've never seen a square emblem in person, and now there are barely any of the 'eternal flames' on the road around here, anyway.

The diamond shape badge looked to much like the renault logo, so mazda had to change it. That's why there so rare.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 months later...

I know this is an old topic but I'm hoping someone can give me advice like Zepticon used to remove a P0715 code so I can get my 1996 626 inspected.

Ten years ago this Forum was a big help with my ATX to MTX swap. I was able keep the original ECU and wiring harness and with a few well placed resistors I was able to clear all codes and pass inspection.

I've spend a lot of time trying to clear the P0715 with no luck and my inspection runs out this month. I'm hoping I can do a ECU splice like Zepticon did - can anyone help?

Thanks
Larry

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

jgoaiv.png

p0715 Input Turbine------Pin 2P --> splice to Pin 4AH (NE+) Tricking the ECU with the crank sensor which mimicks the input turbine
p0715 Input Turbine------Pin 2T --> splice to Pin 4AL (NE-)

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
Just now, FIS said:

jgoaiv.png

p0715 Input Turbine------Pin 2P --> splice to Pin 4AH (NE+) Tricking the ECU with the crank sensor which mimicks the input turbine
p0715 Input Turbine------Pin 2T --> splice to Pin 4AL (NE-)

Best of luck!

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

This is exactly what I needed FIS - thank you very much.

I'm ready to make the splices but I'm a boat mechanic and don't deal with ECU's. Can you help me with the best way to make the splices. Do I cut the Pin 2P wire where it connects to the ECU and then stripe the some insulation from the wire going to Pin 4AH (NE+) and then connect the two with a soldered jumper wire? Then repeat the same for Pin 2T?

Thanks again for your help,
Larry

Link to post
Share on other sites
18 hours ago, rovatune said:

This is exactly what I needed FIS - thank you very much.

I'm ready to make the splices but I'm a boat mechanic and don't deal with ECU's. Can you help me with the best way to make the splices. Do I cut the Pin 2P wire where it connects to the ECU and then stripe the some insulation from the wire going to Pin 4AH (NE+) and then connect the two with a soldered jumper wire? Then repeat the same for Pin 2T?

Thanks again for your help,
Larry

Yeah that should work just fine, just keep in mind to disconnect the old wire for the turbine sensor.

And I have no idea of how this would affect the car or performance on an automatic, this is how you can do it to mimic the signal from the crank sensor so the code goes away if you've done a ATX to MTX swap, or if you simply are running a ATX ECU in a MTX.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

So its been a while since the last update. I had some strange sounds and the star started to behave iffy when driving this winter. I dont drive it much anymore since i my work has moved to an office where its faster and cheaper to take the bus/bike. The problem ended up being a broken rear spring. So i jumped on the fix-paint-upgrade train right away. First i went mental on Rockauto, and ordered every piece in the suspension new. The only items i didnt order was steering parts, and the Koni inserts. Everything else between the wheel and chassi is new. I started the teardown by getting out the shocks and started to refurbush the, They are badly rusted from years in the salt, so they needed some serious work. Only one of them came out easy, this was one of the rear shocks. The other rear shock needed some convincing, but came out in the end as well. The two front ones didn't budge, so i had to cut and drill the bolts. IMG_7126.jpgIMG_7127.jpgIMG_7128.jpgIMG_7129.jpg

I then had them mounted in a lathe and redid the threads properly. IMG_7142.jpgIMG_7143.jpg

 

Since RockAuto had some super cheap chinese brand shocks, i treated myself a set of brand new donor shocks for the inserts. I cut them, and then drilled the hole in the bottom for the bolts. Then painted them properly, and soaked the inside with anti-rust oil. IMG_7179.jpg

 

The rest of the suspension parts where in a sad state, so they went straight to be sandblasted. I had a full King6 suspension setup, but im only keeping the trailing arms. It got to stiff and noisy for me as i am getting older.

IMG_7167.jpgIMG_7168.jpgIMG_7169.jpg

 

Im also making sure the new parts aint gona rust, so im painting them with a few extra layers of Hammerite, before covering them with anti-rust stuff: IMG_7254.jpgIMG_7255.jpg

 

And i also decided that i needed another car: IMG_7228.jpg So now i have three 94 mod Mazdas :) This one will be a more track and fun driven budget project.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...