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My Fsde --> Klde/klze Swap Experience.

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First off, i am gonna tell a bit about myself and my car, for future reference, and for people who may not have seen it or read my posts.

I am 25 years old, with a masters degree in Industrial Design. I have no education or experience what so ever from mechanical work other than what i have taught myself from reading the Internet and trying things myself. The engine swap was much simpler than i had expected. It it basically a big LEGO set :D My car is an European 1.8l FP engine, with the rare Automoderna body kit. A link to my picture thread can be found here.

Since the car looks awesome (at least thats my personal opinion) its ashamed that it can be outraced by almost anything with 4 wheels (even a Prius) so a new engine was required to get the performance to match the looks.

1 - Documentation

The biggest problem i met, was Norwegian governments, and the traffic safety laws that put strict regulations on modifying your car. In order to get an engine swap approved, you need to be able to document that your car (chassi) was delivered or can handle the power of your new engine. You also need to document what kind of modifications you have to do to the rest of the car in order to get it safe enough to road use. This documents have to come either from Mazda (the official national importer), or any independent test facility such as TÜV and Dekra in Germany. So unless Mazda can supply this paperwork, its gonna cost you a lot.

My papers came from Ray Crowe at Malloy Mazda, and even if its not exactly whats required, i managed to convince the officer in charge of my application that it was enough. And i was allowed to start the swap.

2 - A donor car?

Before you start the swap there is a few things you might want to do make the swap as easy as possible.

Get a donor car. This is the most important thing i learned from the swap. The donor car was for me a treasure. My 1.8l is a 94 model, and i was able to find a 93 model V6 donor car for less than the engine itself would have cost me at a salvage yard. With a donor, you will have a lot of extra spare parts, basically two of everything on the body. You will have the complete engine, plumbing, electrical system, and all the harnesses. And most important off all. You know that it works. So troubleshooting is alot easier when you are certain that everything is compatible with each other.

3 - Tools

My toolbox is, to say it mildly, small ;) (yes, thats a pun) it consists of the following:

- Set of metric wrenches from 8mm to 17mm

- Set of sockets and wrench from 8mm to 22mm

- Different size extensions for the sockets

- Pliers and a Vice Grip (this is a must have!)

In addition to this, i was lucky enough to share a workshop with someone who had alot of other tools available.

Since my parts was from one of them "x piece mechanics tool sets", they where quite small and easy to break.

So i borrowed the following from others.

- Heavy duty wrench ranging from 17mm to 22mm

- Heavy duty socket wrench with sockets from 14mm to 17mm.

- Heavy duty extension/torque arm for sockets

- Extra heavy duty socket and 2m torque arm (steel pipe) for the hub nuts.

Additional useful tools/items:

- Engine hoist

- Transmission jack

- Oil/fluid pump to fill the gearbox

- Break/clutch bleeder (makes it super easy to one-man bleed)

- Rust remover (CRC/WD40)

4 - Engine Removal

This is for removing both the V6 from the donor, and the I4 from your car. The I4 was a lot easier to remove since is smaller, but You will have to get everything loose eventually anyway. The car needs to be on jacktstands, but make sure its not to high for your enginehoist. I have tried to write it in the order that i removed it in whens swapping:

- Remove the front bumper, lights foglights and hood.

- Remove the side fenders, and all the plastic surrounding the wheel.

- Drain the fluids from the engine (cooling, transmission oil, powersteering oil)

- Remove all plastic protection from the sides and under the engine.

- Remove the crossmember (from side to side)

- Unbolt the headers from the collector

- Unplug the exhaust sensors

- Remove headers and the rest of the exhaust

- Unbolt the transmission from the shifter linkage.

- Unbolt the driveshaft mount on the right side if the transmission.

- Unbolt the transmission mount on the crossmember (front to back)

- Unbolt the rear engine mount from the transmission. (unbolt the rear engine mount completely, if you have space)

- Remove the hub nut. (first break the splint so it can be turned, then apply the brakes and use a long torque arm.)

- Unbolt the shock and spring assembly

- Unbolt the brake caliper and bracket (but dont disconnect the hose from the caliper)

- Use strips to hang the caliper at the top of the spring.

- Loosen the bolt on the ball joint, and if possible lift the hub away.

- If the hub is stuck on the joint, just bend the hub to the side so you can force the CV shafts out.

- Use a crowbar to loosen the driver side CV shaft from transmission. Wedge it in between the shaft and transmission and hammer it, but be careful with the oil seal.

- The passenger side should come loose without force if you unbolted the mount as said earlier.

- Remove all the "plastic" form the engine bay. (battery, VAf sensor, airfilter etc)

- Disconenct the throttle wire

- Remove the radiator and plumbing.

- Remove the powersteering plumbing

- Disconnect all fuelhoses going to the engine

- Disconnect the clutch line at the driver side engine mount (use the vice grip)

- Disconnect the engine harness from the fender harness.

- Disconnect the ECU harness from the fender and engine harness.

- Unbolt the front engine mount.

- Attach the engine hoist to the engine

- Unbolt the driver and passenger side engine mounts. (Removing them completely will make removal and installation a breeze.)

- Hoist the engine out.

5 - Harness swap

To swap the harnesses you need small hands. Or patience. Here is how i did it.

- Remove passenger and driver seat.

- Remove center console and dashboard.

- Remove CD/DVD player and ventilation/AC controll unit.

- Remove steering wheel covers

- Remove speedometer cluster

- Remove glove compartment.

- Remove all plastic covers under the dashboard.

- Remove ventilation fan and plumbing behind the glove compartment. (to reach the clock connector)

- Remove the fuse box inside the car.

ECU harness:

- Unplug from ECU and dash harness

- Push the connectors out and into the engine compartment.

- Unscrew the harness from the firewall, should be the only thing keeping it in place.

Fender harness:

- Disconnect all the clips and mounts that hold it to the frame from the passenger side turn signal and all the way to the fuse box.

- Pull the connectors out from the inside of the car through the hole in the driver side fender. (or push em from the inside, that might be easier)

- Unbolt the fusebox and make sure the rest of the harness is loose, then pull everything out.

Dash harness:

- Start on the passenger side and remove the tweeter plug, fan plug, then the plug on the clock and on the ventilation control plug.

- Then remove all the cables and clips from behind the CD and AC controll.

(- there is a ground point behind the CD/AC rack that is impossible to get out. I just cut it of and made a new one that i put on the ECU screws)

- Thens tart from the Fusebox and unplug every connector from the ABS/Airbag/AC control and from the steering wheel.

- All the wires should now be on your driver side floor, going up into the speedometer cluster, then down again on the other side.

- Now just lift everything up through the speedometer cluster hole, and remove it.

6 - Things to fix while the engine is out

- Install the ECU harness back where it belong.

- Change the plumbing for the Powersteering pump.

- Wash and clean the engine compartment and parts that is hard to reach.


- Remove/install ABS system

- Change brake and fuel lines.

7 - Installation

- Reverse of removal.

8 - Useful tips

- Completely remove the part of the rear engine mount that bolts to the transmission. Install it again after putting in the engine.

- Completley remove the driver side and passenger side mounts.

- Buy the official workshop manual form Mazda AND the Haynes Manual

9 - Parts needed to be changed

Since i did a 94 to 93 swap, that may or may not ahve been the reason i had to swap every harness. and a lot of other parts. I would recommend to get a donor of the same year and if possible the same level of extra stuff as the one you got, if you want to save yourself some work. What i had to swap out excluding the engine itself was this.

- Engine harness (should be on the engine but i mention it anyway)

- ECU harness (connects to the engine harness and the ECU, goes through the firewall on the passenger side)

- Dashboard harness (ECU harness and Dash harness didn't match)

- Fender harness (Engine/ECU harness and Fender harness didn't match)

- Steering column (dash harness connectors from 93 didnt fit on the 94 column)

- Speedometer cluster (2 extra cylinders made the RPMs go crazy. It showed me 10k rpm on my testrun)

- Crossmember (side to side, since there was a thin metal thing in the way on my I4 one, the I4 may still fit if the metal is removed)

- Rear engine mount (transmission side, there was two different mounts delivered with the 626, with different width. Your old I4 will fit if you use the I4 bolts)

- CV shafts. Since the V6 ones are bigger im required to change them to get approval.

- Radiator and plumbing.

- Powersteering plumbing.

That should be about it, form the top of my head.

If there is any questions or similar i will answer them and update the post if thats needed.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Haha..hey that's not a bad write up from right off the top of your head, ofc its a little long and i didn't read all, just kinda skimmed, I like pics tho, they're easier to understand ;) u should edit some in and have this moved and stickied, I believe you covered the gist of it, from the axels to the wires, very nice job, hope it works well for you for years to come!

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