ReyG

Misfire 1 Continued Problem

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Hello everyone I'm new to this forum ran into it randomly while searching for possible solution to my car problem but i think its great that their is a forum just for this specific kind of car :)

Now the problem i am having is i purchased my 1997 Mazda 626 ES V6 2.5L and it started acting funny so i got it checked and they said it was misfiring from 1 so i changed the spark plug still no change i then proceeded to change the ignition coil and it ran a little better but i brought it back and it was still misfiring for the same place. What I'm wondering is what is my next possible place to check for problem i was told to change my fuel injector that leads to the misfire? i will take any suggestions Thanks

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Spark plug wires are a common source of problems on these cars. And most of us have found that the NGK blue wires are the best.

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So could i used the same wires on the car to test out if it is that specific wire? They all look brand new but who know it could be

Spark plug wires are a common source of problems on these cars. And most of us have found that the NGK blue wires are the best.

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A leaking fuel injector could cause a misfire. They are not cheap to replace so I'd have them cleaned first. Look for a local place that does "sonic cleaning".

There are plenty of other reasons for a misfire though. Burnt, carbonized, or worn valves. Worn or damaged rings. It's best to take care of the things that you can do before requiring a mechanic to tear open the engine and figure out what is causing it. Whenever a mechanic has to go into an engine you're automatically looking at a new valve cover gasket ($20-$40), timing belt $50, water pump, and fixing whatever is causing the issue. While he's in there might as well replace any faulty HLA's. Easily looking at $200-$300 anytime a mechanic has to open up your engine. So do what you can before that. If it comes to it a mechanic will have to look in there.

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Thanks for the info i wish i knew more about car i have a feeling its the fuel injector cause i've tried almost everything but i can't find a video guide on where they are or how to remove them. If i found out how to do this i might be able to remove the fuel injector and find out if that is the problem. One other thing do you think i should bring it somewhere to do a diagnostic test?

A leaking fuel injector could cause a misfire. They are not cheap to replace so I'd have them cleaned first. Look for a local place that does "sonic cleaning".

There are plenty of other reasons for a misfire though. Burnt, carbonized, or worn valves. Worn or damaged rings. It's best to take care of the things that you can do before requiring a mechanic to tear open the engine and figure out what is causing it. Whenever a mechanic has to go into an engine you're automatically looking at a new valve cover gasket ($20-$40), timing belt $50, water pump, and fixing whatever is causing the issue. While he's in there might as well replace any faulty HLA's. Easily looking at $200-$300 anytime a mechanic has to open up your engine. So do what you can before that. If it comes to it a mechanic will have to look in there.

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How could you tell if the fuel injector is leaking anyways will it be noticeable?

A leaking fuel injector could cause a misfire. They are not cheap to replace so I'd have them cleaned first. Look for a local place that does "sonic cleaning".

There are plenty of other reasons for a misfire though. Burnt, carbonized, or worn valves. Worn or damaged rings. It's best to take care of the things that you can do before requiring a mechanic to tear open the engine and figure out what is causing it. Whenever a mechanic has to go into an engine you're automatically looking at a new valve cover gasket ($20-$40), timing belt $50, water pump, and fixing whatever is causing the issue. While he's in there might as well replace any faulty HLA's. Easily looking at $200-$300 anytime a mechanic has to open up your engine. So do what you can before that. If it comes to it a mechanic will have to look in there.

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While it's possible that a clogged injector could cause the problem, I would still focus on the ignition system first, as this is the most likely culprit.

Wires can "look" new but have over 100k miles on them. They do wear out over time, they're carrying 50,000 volt electrical discharges an average of 25 times a second or so. I would also at a minimum clean out the distributor cap (scrape all of the corrosion off the terminals), if not outright replace it. Same with the rotor button.

You can test the wires, should be something like 4-6 kOhms of impedance per linear foot. I would also try the "spark in the dark" test, where you spray some water mist (from a spray bottle) around the spark plug wires with the engine at idle, in the dark, and see if you start to see sparks and light flashes....if you do, the wires need to be replaced.

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This will give you a good idea as to what happens inside your cylinder when you have a leaking fuel injector.

Unless your injector is cracked and spewing fuel out of the side of the injector then the only way you'll notice it is in how efficiently the engine runs.

First thing to try is changing out the spark plugs and plug wires. Recommend NGK for both spark plugs and plug wires. In other countries they call them HT or High Tension wires just FYI, here in the US we call them plug wires. So far the majority of the misfire topics I've come across have been solved by getting new plugs and wires.

If you've done that then it's time to have your injectors tested.

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So could i used the same wires on the car to test out if it is that specific wire? They all look brand new but who know it could be

Spark plug wires are a common source of problems on these cars. And most of us have found that the NGK blue wires are the best.

yes, switch the #1 wire with another (i.e.#3) and see if the misfire follows the wire....i.e. miss on #3.

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Good advice , a "dead miss" is usually ignition related as injectors cause rough idle/running unless it is stopped up completely or the internal coil ( or other electrical problem ) has failed.

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Thanks for all the suggestions i brought it to Mazda to be checked and they said it had something to do with EGR??? no idea what that is. I'm also looking for an oil pan for my car if anyone has any suggestion on site to purchase one

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Thanks for all the suggestions i brought it to Mazda to be checked and they said it had something to do with EGR??? no idea what that is. I'm also looking for an oil pan for my car if anyone has any suggestion on site to purchase one

Your EGR has nothing to do with a misfire! Have you followed the advice given? The dealer will soak you around $400 and you'll be the "next sucker"!

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I believe you bro they called me saying it would be $2900.00 dollars to fix everything i will be picking the car up tomorrow and getting the paperwork that tell me what exactly i need i know my oil pan is leaking and i am going to order one for 40 dollars sometime today and install it myself if its not to hard. I'm going to try taking out the fuel injector that is used for the first cylinder if anyone know which one that is please let me know and thanks everybody for all the advise once i get the car back i will be fixing it up myself cause their is no way i'm paying almost 3000 dollars.

Thanks for all the suggestions i brought it to Mazda to be checked and they said it had something to do with EGR??? no idea what that is. I'm also looking for an oil pan for my car if anyone has any suggestion on site to purchase one

Your EGR has nothing to do with a misfire! Have you followed the advice given? The dealer will soak you around $400 and you'll be the "next sucker"!

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I know its not the wire because i tested this the way you advised and it was still misfiring so the next step is to test my fuel injector.

So could i used the same wires on the car to test out if it is that specific wire? They all look brand new but who know it could be

Spark plug wires are a common source of problems on these cars. And most of us have found that the NGK blue wires are the best.

yes, switch the #1 wire with another (i.e.#3) and see if the misfire follows the wire....i.e. miss on #3.

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Thanks for all the suggestions i brought it to Mazda to be checked and they said it had something to do with EGR??? no idea what that is. I'm also looking for an oil pan for my car if anyone has any suggestion on site to purchase one

Your EGR has nothing to do with a misfire! Have you followed the advice given? The dealer will soak you around $400 and you'll be the "next sucker"!

That's not entirely true; EGR problems can cause a misfire, as it will lean out the mixture if the valve sticks open, particularly to the cylinder that has the EGR port closest too it. If the mixture is too lean, it won't fire reliably.

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I was told it was because of some carbon build up

Thanks for all the suggestions i brought it to Mazda to be checked and they said it had something to do with EGR??? no idea what that is. I'm also looking for an oil pan for my car if anyone has any suggestion on site to purchase one

Your EGR has nothing to do with a misfire! Have you followed the advice given? The dealer will soak you around $400 and you'll be the "next sucker"!

That's not entirely true; EGR problems can cause a misfire, as it will lean out the mixture if the valve sticks open, particularly to the cylinder that has the EGR port closest too it. If the mixture is too lean, it won't fire reliably.

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From what they told me it was a carbon build up which was causing my misfire 1

Thanks for all the suggestions i brought it to Mazda to be checked and they said it had something to do with EGR??? no idea what that is. I'm also looking for an oil pan for my car if anyone has any suggestion on site to purchase one

Your EGR has nothing to do with a misfire! Have you followed the advice given? The dealer will soak you around $400 and you'll be the "next sucker"!

That's not entirely true; EGR problems can cause a misfire, as it will lean out the mixture if the valve sticks open, particularly to the cylinder that has the EGR port closest too it. If the mixture is too lean, it won't fire reliably.

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Did they say where the carbon build up was? Carbon build up on a valve could cause a misfire. You can clean the EGR. You can't really clean a valve yourself unless you know how to tear down the engine past the cams.

$2900 is utterly excessive. It's ludicrous. You could buy a new engine, have it installed, and have enough left over to buy a 2nd used 626 for less than that. You could have the engine completely rebuilt for less too. Go to a different shop, get a 2nd opinion.

A re-manufactured fuel injector will run you about $80-$100. About $280 for a new one. You can go cheaper and get one or more from a junkyard car and have them tested for much less. I know of a place that will do it for $20 an injector but you mail it to them. An EGR valve will run you about $280. I would recommend cleaning it yourself instead. There are articles here about how to clean it. As for a carbonized or burnt valve that will require a mechanic to tear down the engine. Probably 3-4 hours of work. The valve itself is cheap. Figuring out why that valve burnt out and the others didn't, well it could be improper seating, valve spring, EGR, dirty gas, bad PCV, and a litany of other causes. The carbonized valve might not be the cause but a symptom. It can be replaced but without fixing the underlying cause it could happen again, probably not for a while though. There are quite a lot of things that can go wrong here including being rolled over by a less than honorable dealership.

Basically get a 2nd opinion and a 3rd if necessary. When you get a 2nd opinion for a car... don't ever mention that you've already had it at another shop and especially what that diagnosis was because it will immediately bias the results of the 2nd diagnosis. You want two completely independent test results to base good judgement on. We can only do so much from the comfort of our arm chairs. We can't inspect the engine from here. :unsure:

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This here is a picture of the paperwork i was given i ordered the oil pan and will be installing it soon but all the other problem i could use some advise in. The paper work explains some more about the EGR issue. The one highlighted are the one's they recommended i work on first.

img-318145-1-photorpm.jpg

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If any could let me know what parts i will need to fix these issue i have purchased the oil pan so far but not sure about the others.

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The oil pan is sealed using a good silicone sealant though you can buy a oil pan gasket at most parts stores. Be sure the oil pan lip is not bent/distorted/damaged . Since you need to replace the valve cover gaskets you will have to remove the intake , this will be a good opportunity to to clean it especially the EGR ports . I strongly agree that a dirty/clogged/malfunctioning EGR can cause your problem. See this link for more info on cleaning. All of the info ( torque specks , step by step, parts/gaskets ) can be found in the KL section of the workshop manual - DOWNLOAD .

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Thank i actually purchased oil pan gasket too with the purchase of my oil pan. So should i wait and get all the parts together and do the job in one shot? What i'm having problem is that i'm new to the whole car repair and i don't know where or what the EGR is? i'll google more on it but if anyone as pictures of it i would glady appreciate it.

The oil pan is sealed using a good silicone sealant though you can buy a oil pan gasket at most parts stores. Be sure the oil pan lip is not bent/distorted/damaged . Since you need to replace the valve cover gaskets you will have to remove the intake , this will be a good opportunity to to clean it especially the EGR ports . I strongly agree that a dirty/clogged/malfunctioning EGR can cause your problem. See this link for more info on cleaning. All of the info ( torque specks , step by step, parts/gaskets ) can be found in the KL section of the workshop manual - DOWNLOAD .

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That download link does not work? I'll try searching for it

The oil pan is sealed using a good silicone sealant though you can buy a oil pan gasket at most parts stores. Be sure the oil pan lip is not bent/distorted/damaged . Since you need to replace the valve cover gaskets you will have to remove the intake , this will be a good opportunity to to clean it especially the EGR ports . I strongly agree that a dirty/clogged/malfunctioning EGR can cause your problem. See this link for more info on cleaning. All of the info ( torque specks , step by step, parts/gaskets ) can be found in the KL section of the workshop manual - DOWNLOAD .

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The EGR is below the throttle body on both the I4 and V6 models. You will have to remove at least the main intake boot to get to it.

Looks like that place is overcharging you by 400%. It costs $50 for a valve cover gasket and takes about 20 minutes to replace and that's if you've never done it before. It's just a piece of rubber. That's got to be one of the most mind blowing diagnostic print out's I've ever seen. They spelled recommend and stumble wrong. If they can't even spell recommend then they shouldn't be recommending anything other than going back to school.

P0400 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Malfunction

To my knowledge there is no such thing as a Mazda P1700 OBDII code. So they either got the code wrong or made it up.

According to them you've blown your intake manifold gasket. Which very well can cause your car to rough very rough and possibly misfire. Along with a stuck EGR all of this is fixable yourself with a little time and effort you can save yourself (according to them) over $2000.

What you'll need:

Oil Pan + Gasket

Intake Manifold Gasket

EGR Valve Cleaning Kit (two hands and some throttle body cleaner)

Valve Cover Gaskets (front and rear)

Socket/Ratchet set

2-4 hours of free time depending on how fast you want to do it. I'd clean the EGR and let it sit out overnight to dry, reinstall in the morning. You could do all of this in 1 day and not have to miss work the next day.

As far as the steering and suspension stuff goes I'm not good with that. You'll need someone else to help out there.

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I'm almost ready to start this project but i have one more question i'm kind of confused about the Valve Cover Gaskets how do i know which one to buy? how do i tell which is front and rear i found one online that said Valve Cover Gaskets set does that mean it brings both? and where are these installed. Ican't wait to start working on my car and i want to thank everyone that gave me information about how to do it.

The EGR is below the throttle body on both the I4 and V6 models. You will have to remove at least the main intake boot to get to it.

Looks like that place is overcharging you by 400%. It costs $50 for a valve cover gasket and takes about 20 minutes to replace and that's if you've never done it before. It's just a piece of rubber. That's got to be one of the most mind blowing diagnostic print out's I've ever seen. They spelled recommend and stumble wrong. If they can't even spell recommend then they shouldn't be recommending anything other than going back to school.

P0400 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Malfunction

To my knowledge there is no such thing as a Mazda P1700 OBDII code. So they either got the code wrong or made it up.

According to them you've blown your intake manifold gasket. Which very well can cause your car to rough very rough and possibly misfire. Along with a stuck EGR all of this is fixable yourself with a little time and effort you can save yourself (according to them) over $2000.

What you'll need:

Oil Pan + Gasket

Intake Manifold Gasket

EGR Valve Cleaning Kit (two hands and some throttle body cleaner)

Valve Cover Gaskets (front and rear)

Socket/Ratchet set

2-4 hours of free time depending on how fast you want to do it. I'd clean the EGR and let it sit out overnight to dry, reinstall in the morning. You could do all of this in 1 day and not have to miss work the next day.

As far as the steering and suspension stuff goes I'm not good with that. You'll need someone else to help out there.

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