GT_FE3

1989 Telstar Hatch Resto/mod/build Thread.

345 posts in this topic

Hey, glad to have you back! I like this project, and it sounds like you've got some really big plans ahead.

Can you swap bell housings for the corolla trans, or do you have to use an adapter and space the flywheel? Mazda is not known for building strong transmissions, unfortunately. 

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Will need a custom adapter for sure, possible flywheel fiddling too. Possible fabrication trickery for the shifter linkages as well. 6 speed with LSD would be ideal, better ratios and longer drive which would be fantastic, then it could handle more boost I'd stick around 16-18 psi, maximum of 20psi and aim for 285 whp.

I can't find an LSD so I'm not aiming for huge power/big boost, 10 -12 psi for safe reliable daily driving and possibly 14 psi absolute maximum if everything can handle it. I'm aiming for around 220 whp, more or less this all I can make as I am limited due to the driveline. Don't mind running 95/98 fuel.

Already though by the time all is said and done its $5,500. Bear in mind this is overkill and future proofed so if in future I want to upgrade I can $1,950 for MS2 including final tuning/dyno, $300 wide band kit, $400 inter cooler and piping, $700 for a turbo - TD05 16g but I would consider a good genuine used one if less $$ and possibly a smaller turbo, $200 fuel pump Walbro 255 lph, $200 for a fuel pressure reg kit, $200 for an oil line kit, $600 to have this conversion certified $3955 so far.

The parts I'm not so sure on and will likely use the remaining $1500 are:

Wastegate: $400 budgeted not sure if a cheap one will be ok

BOV - if I can use the stock turbo one I will, if not can get a new HKS for $150

Injectors. Stock evo 4-5 510-520cc should be ok for now $200, rail $200 but for $60 more I can get an AEM rail which will help if I go to bigger injectors later, IF I do the gearbox and want to up the boost I will need 1000cc to be safe as I'll be around 20 psi max although run a normal "safe" tune of 16-18 psi for daily.

Manifold. Nothing off the shelf - will have to get one made. Evo spec with FE3 flange?

 

The gearbox information I stumbled on from probetalk which I'll do before adding any psi - maybe after MS and wideband - the first 2 mods which will go in.

The n/a is a G type like the 2nd gen trannies, and the GT is an H type. Everything is bigger in the H type, and the diffs do not interchange whatsoever.

However, not all g series trans are created equal. The n/a 1G diff is a joke compared the the 2nd gen. In so much as it would be an upgrade to put the 2nd gen open diff into the 1g n/a.

Yeah the ring gear is different between the 4 cyl and V6 2nd gen, but if you were to take all the guts out of either they will swap into either case. I know a guy that did this, and I tried it for myself and it does indeed work.

I was shocked when I first saw how much smaller the 1G n/a diff was compared to all the 2nd gen ones I had seen, considering they are both G type. Since they are G type, theoretically it will swap, however would likely mean still needing to keep the 1G ring gear.

The GT diff is of course bigger than the G type 2nd gen diff, but not by a lot. Either way they are not interchangeable anyways.

A very good solution to the pinion shaft breaking is to a) weld it into the differential housing or b) drill and put another roll pin on the other side of it. I have had good results with welding mine. I've toasted 4 motors and 2 sets of 3rd gears, but never a diff.

 

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This is news to me, the second gen 4cyl G series is an upgrade over the 88-89 G series?

 

 

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I really don't know. I'll find another box if I can find one cheap and compare, may go with welding if its cheaper. $120 at pick a part, mazda wreckers $450...... lol I want a cheap stuffed one for comparison. Likely I'll get the pin welded, be gentle and pray

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http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-mx6-forced-induction/274065-manual-trans-max-torque.html

This wonderful link contains information on welding the diff pins. I am considering this option. Cheapest GE 5 speed I found was $95 and it has 287 kms, not hard to find I just wanted one free or next to free (broken) Just for comparison. Decisions. Maybe if I can swap in GE internals if they fit and weld GE diff pin. If I do I'd like a box with less than 287 k's Should be strong enough then. Better upgrade the oem Exeddy to stage 1, will do this when I start on the gearbox.

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Different ratios between the GE FS and the K series.

Fe dohc - 3.307 First, 1.833 second, 1.310 third, 1.030 fourth, 0.837 5th - 4.105 final drive.

FS dohc - 3.310, 1.833 1.23, 0.91,0.72 (0.92 on GF series)

K series - 3.310, 1.833, 1.31, 1.030, 0.80.

Its third that strips and usually after crazy power like 450 nm. Might just weld the pin in my current box - the other archillies heel and not be too hard with it. I'm not going for huge power anyway.

 

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http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&title=Ffamily-Flier&A=2526

This but with lower boost since 10:1 CR. With welded diff. I am going to play with gearboxes, seems like I'm looking for V6 internals. Can't see them fitting but that's what I'll find out when I find a cheap one.

Edit - so I'm not making another post. I'll add this to stiffen it up. Will work on 626's as well.

http://ultraracing.my/ecatalog/index.php/product/ford-telstar-1989-rear-strut-bar-rear-tower-bar/

Will get that much later once turbo stuff is all done. Have discovered Evo 8/9 manifold pretty much fits the FE3. Some die grinding needed. I'm looking towards cast for longevity. Found some mild steel ones new for $400 but they look very average. $600 for cast. Turbo options are at TD04/05 - easy since Mitsi manifold but I'd perfer Garret T28 - ball bearing for durability plus good for my lower power goals so possibly a RB25 Skyline turbo may find its way in. Likely heading for used and rebuild. GT2860 is still an option $600 new - 250-400 hp though and I'll be getting 220 tops, so its a bit of a waste with such a big turbo.

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Right so I've decided the easy way - TD04/5 , stock cast iron Mitsi 4-9 exhaust manifold, found a cheap one. Maybe stock Evo 4 rail and injectors too, haven't got to full researching fuel rails and injectors. I already have a FE3 flange which I will get welded. Possibly more cast welding trickery with a stock down pipe. Yes I know I can flow way more etc get better power with custom stuff but I want a clean looking engine bay and want to retain the heat shield with the only real giveaways being bling IC hoses and BOV and possibly wastegate.

Thinking about adding Mazda 323 GTR vents to the bonnet to aid cooling. Just the side ones moved into the middle by the exhaust manifold for aesthetics/cooling later when the turbo stuff is all done or maybe Evo style. Lol not trying to build an evo, just a few parts seem to match somewhat easily. Might just leave bonnet alone - F2T's have turbos and don't need vents.

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Since this is my only car right now I've focused on getting it legal and I serviced it today. A few more scratches around it which I'm not impressed with but that's what I get for leaving in in my parents garage I guess. Before I parked it the left side skirt suffered some damage when the hand brake slipped and it grazed a curb chipping the gel coat. So I filled it and gave it a quick repair, painted it today. What I never showed was my interior. I changed my mind about custom trimming and got this instead. I would have stuck with what I had if it was clean and undamaged. Its not finished and this is the next thing I plan on doing making 1 good seat from 2 crap ones, both have damage on opposite sides. Once they are all once color I'm happy. This will require VHT vinyl dye or Dupli-color equivalent, which I'll do anyway since the sun has faded the black material to blue. Not bothered if the fabric isn't a 100% match, as long as the colors match. It will be getting a big scrub as the other seats did before I put them in the car.

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Turbo stuff still happening slowly. Need another family car over a turbo set up, because not everyone can fit into this car, which all going to plan should happen this Monday I really hope. It's a 1997 Capella - this one is a white GF wagon and it is mint with just on 144,000 kms. Mazdaspeed bodykit and possibly FS-ZE - its another Jap import.

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Took me a good few hours. I attempted to clean the material last night - laundry detergent, soap and gave it a soak better but not perfect. For a diy job came up good. Better if I had the actual material, once it gets vinyl dye it should be less conspicuous. I stitched from the insides, swapped the foam from my seat since it was better, stitched the lower bolster section on Need the car tomorrow morning so for a quick job its pretty good. Lots of hog rings which I replaced with cable ties.

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Took me a good few hours yesterday as well. I attempted to clean the material last night - laundry detergent, soap and gave it a soak its better but not perfect, side bolsters are a bit yuck still which I'll fix. Overall for a DIY job came up good. I stitched from the inside, some patches will be seen but it does not worry me too much, less conspicuous once I use vinyl dye. I swapped the foam from my original seat since it was better, stitched the lower bolster section on properly. I had to have it done by this morning so for a quick job its pretty good. Lots of hog rings which I replaced with cable ties. I should secure the seat cushion fabric better - I just used 4 cable ties as a quick job and its apparent I need more, which will happen come vinyl time.

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On 9/15/2017 at 5:30 PM, GT_FE3 said:

Turbo stuff still happening slowly. Need another family car over a turbo set up, because not everyone can fit into this car, which all going to plan should happen this Monday I really hope. It's a 1997 Capella - this one is a white GF wagon and it is mint with just on 144,000 kms. Mazdaspeed bodykit and possibly FS-ZE - its another Jap import.

Got it today - Monday 18/9/17 after a 400 km trip which it performed flawlessly. Its now 9.15 PM and too dark for pics. Got all the seats, may bore you guys with a few pics. Not going to build it, just give it a good polish some Mazdaspeed bling and a service, keep her running. Should get a shot with both cars together.

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Washed and service the wagon. Also washed TX5 and put side skirt on. Need double sided tape so its on properly. Also has surface rust which needs a quick fix before skirt goes on.

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I did the front seats with vinyl dye, they are drying. They are meant to be black but the factory dye fades to blue as you can see with passenger seat. I did the rear ones with dye when I put them in a fair while back. Finally it now has a color matched interior. Not really bothered that the materials don't quite match on the drivers seat as it didn't cost me a cent to do where as I'd have to go junk yard hunting and usually doors are off and/or window are down which means the weather and animals can get in....  seat covers never fit properly and to me look terrible - I did try them and within a week they were gone.

 The steering wheel is crumbling. I'd like something different, I like the neo chrome horn ring so that's happening. I still have my old SAAS (cheap) Steering wheel but I like the split spokes of these ones cant decide between silver gold or black for the spokes.

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While it was drying I gave the paint some TLC. Sure it was shiny but the paint was dirty the water was yellow even after 4 passes. I also started to fix some of the paint damage. Hoping tomorrow is good I'm going to bring out the polish.20170908_154843.thumb.jpg.392c15b237929f114315b6d56514af01.jpg.804371cc5cfb57d891c9dfa5a3fba3ba.jpg

Is now:

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This looks bad. It left a small dent

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Now:

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After the clay bar:

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20171013_185805.thumb.jpg.aad61ed39fb44a6753404a41186611b7.jpgToday after using ultimate compound and then scratch and swirl. Some big scratches still there overall its shinier and clean. Didn't do the kit or front bumper because they will be repainted. Same with the mirrors

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Today after using ultimate compound and then scratch and swirl. Some big scratches still there overall its shiny and clean.

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Looks nice. Nice to see some Telstar love...it seems that here in Australia few people seem to care about old Telstars and 626's....about 9 months ago I actually came across a GD at the wreckers that looked like a complete time warp. Looked like it had the original paint, panels were all perfect, interior was like a new car. If I had the money and space for another car I probably would've made an offer for the whole thing and saved it.

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