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djdevon3

Cleaning Hydraulic Lash Adjusters (Hla's)

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All credit for This article goes to Silver_Bullit over on the ProbeTalk.com forum. There is another good HLA article on Miata.net worth reading too.

DISSASSEMBLY:

1)The basic HLA. And pusher/lifter housing…

img-315705-1-HLA_Cleaning_001.jpg

img-315705-2-HLA_Cleaning_002.jpg

2) Pull the HLA out of the lifter housing. As seen here using a pair of robogrip pliers.

img-315705-3-HLA_Cleaning_003.jpg

img-315705-4-HLA_Cleaning_004.jpg

3) One little clip ring holds the HLA into its housing, seen here.

img-315705-5-HLA_Cleaning_005.jpg

4) Pull the two (2) halves of the HLA apart.

img-315705-6-HLA_Cleaning_006.jpg

img-315705-7-HLA_Cleaning_007.jpg

5) Now you have the small half and large half of the HLA, along with the larger spring.

img-315705-8-HLA_Cleaning_008.jpg

6)Pull the ball keeper off of the end of the small half of the HLA.

img-315705-9-HLA_Cleaning_009.jpg

7) The result of #6, the spring in the background is the larger spring. There is also a very small spring that presses against the ball; it is located inside of the keeper, as seen in this pic...

img-315705-10-HLA_Cleaning_010.jpg

img-315705-11-HLA_Cleaning_011.jpg

img-315705-12-HLA_Cleaning_012.jpg

8)The smaller half of the HLA and the oil ball.

img-315705-13-HLA_Cleaning_013.jpg

There the HLA is now completely disassembled, wasn't so hard was it.

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REASSEMBLY:

Do not put any oil in the HLA while it is apart, let them soak in a can of oil overnight and fully compress them the next day before installation.

Fully dismantled...

img-315706-1-HLA_Cleaning_014.jpg

1) Put the ball into the shallow end of the smaller of the two halves of the HLA.

img-315706-2-HLA_Cleaning_015.jpg

2) Put the VERY small spring inside of the keeper (kind of blurry, sorry).

img-315706-3-HLA_Cleaning_016.jpg

3) Put the "keeper" with the spring inside of it onto the end of the smaller half of the HLA, make sure that the spring is against the ball and that it is pushed all the way into place.

img-315706-4-HLA_Cleaning_017.jpg

4) Now place the larger spring into the end of the larger half of the HLA, make sure that it is straight.

img-315706-5-HLA_Cleaning_018.jpg

5) Assemble the two halves of the HLA so that the large spring and "keeper" are touching one another. Also, make sure that the deep end of the small 1/2 of the HLA is facing out/up.

img-315706-6-HLA_Cleaning_019.jpg

img-315706-7-HLA_Cleaning_020.jpg

6) Use a small needle or pin to push the ball down so that the internal pressure can be relieved so that the HLA can be compressed fully, compress it fully and pull the pin/needle out.

img-315706-8-HLA_Cleaning_021.jpg

7) Reassemble the HLA and "pusher", "lifter"... Put the end of the HLA that has the opening in it into the pusher/lifter first.

img-315706-9-HLA_Cleaning_022.jpg

A theory of mine about the HLA and their ticking:

The internal oil pressure CAN'T be higher than the valve spring rating (i.e. 80 psi spring, 80+ psi oil pressure), for one thing our engines don't run oil pressure in that range. Next, if they did then the valve would never fully close due to the fact that the HLA would never partially compress.

My thoughts on the subject now lead me to believe that the HLA gets about 1/2 maybe 2/3 of the internal pressure of the valve spring. (e.g. 80 psi spring, the HLA has an internal pressure of maybe 40-65 psi or so) Due to this, the HLA compresses slightly when the cam turns, but the hole in the HLA is small enough so that the oil pressure can't bleed off fast enough and the valve opens due to the sudden spike in internal pressure.

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Very cool write-up, this will be pinned :D

Well, be careful with how you compare apples to oranges.

Pressure is force PER UNIT AREA. Valve spring load is in units of POUNDS, so they would be 80 lbs, not 80 PSI. With the HLA, you would take oil delta-pressure [oil pressure minus air pressure on the top side of the head, which will be a slight vacuum]; let's say this is 50 PSID. Multiply by the normal area of the HLA piston....probably around 0.75" or so judging by the pictures.....which is 37.5 lbs-force. The tiny little spring inside also adds some amount of force, perhaps 10 lbs.

So, 80 - 37.5 - 10 = 32.5 of effective static spring pressure when the cam lobe isn't depressing the valve, at speeds high enough to where the oil pump is operating at relief. At idle, you only have maybe 25 PSI of oil pressure, so there is more preload on the valves.

As you guessed, the oil orifice is sized such that the lifter only collapses a tiny bit while the lobe is depressing the valve, as this is only perhaps 20% of the cam's profile; the rest of the time, the cam is not depressing the valve, and the HLA expands back out as oil fills it back up.

When there is sludge built up, either in the HLA, or in the oil passage feeding it, the HLA doesn't recover fast enough, and you will start to hear it ticking as the cam lobe slaps the surface.

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Very good info guys. What are your thoughts on shimming the oil pump ( link 1 , link 2 ) and the zr1 filter mod(s). I have read it helps in regards to oil starvation to #5 cylinders than can occur with the KL's but it seems there is still a debate as to how much it helps the HLA noise.

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I didn't write the article. Only archiving it here because the article over at ProbeTalk doesn't have the images visible. You have to click on each one which is a pain in the butt. Plus the images for the reassembly are completely broken.

I went through the original .doc and ripped out all the necessary images and replicated the OP's article for our forum. This is for archiving only.

If you have any questions about it contact Silver_Bullit over at ProbeTalk. In my opinion any enthusiast forum that has HLA's in their cars should archive this. It's an excellent breakdown and rebuild of an HLA. Currently we have the best version of this article with all images showing and nicely formatted.

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1. Prepare three containers. Place enough diesel fuel

into each container to cover a lash adjuster when it

is standing upright.

Container A will be used to clean the outside of

the lash adjuster.

Container B will be used to clean the inside of

the lash adjuster.

After cleaning the adjuster, use Container C to

fill it with clean diesel fuel.

2. Place the lash adjuster into container A and clean its

outside surface, using a nylon brush if necessary.

3. While gently pushing down the internal steel ball

using stiff wire (0.5 mm diameter), move the plunger

through 5 to 10 strokes until it slides smoothly. This

will remove dirty oil from the lash adjuster and

loosen the plunger.

The steel ball spring is extremely weak. If the

wire is pushed in with too much force, the lash

adjuster will be damaged.

If the plunger remains stiff or the mechanism

appears to be abnormal, replace the lash adjuster.

4. Remove the lash adjuster from container A. Then

gently push down the steel ball and push the

plunger to remove the diesel fuel from its pressure

chamber.

On DOHC engines, point the oil hole toward

container A. Do not point the oil hole toward

anyone.

5. Place the lash adjuster in container B. Then gently

push down the internal steel ball using stiff wire (0.5

mm diameter). Move the plunger through 5 to 10

strokes until it slides smoothly. This will clean the

lash adjuster’s pressure chamber.

6. Remove the lash adjuster from container B. Then

gently push down the steel ball and push the

plunger to remove the diesel fuel from its pressure

chamber.

7. Place the lash adjuster in container C. Then gently

push down the internal steel ball using a stiff wire

(0.5 mm).

Do not use container C for cleaning. Foreign matter

could enter the pressure chamber.

8. Stand the lash adjuster upright with its plunger at the

top, then push the plunger downward firmly until it

moves through its furthest possible stroke. Return

the plunger slowly, then release the steel ball and

allow the pressure chamber to fill with diesel fuel.

9. Remove the lash adjuster from container C and

stand it upright with its plunger at the top. Push the

plunger firmly and check that it does not move.

If the lash adjuster contracts, repeat Steps 7 through

9 to fill it completely with diesel fuel. If it contracts

again, replace it.

10. Stand the lash adjuster upright to prevent the diesel

fuel from spilling out. Do not allow it to become

contaminated by dirt or other foreign substances.

Install it in the engine as soon as possible.

I hope these steps may help you.

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I have a 95 mazda 626 and have a ticking sound which I belive r my lifters but when I pulled my lifters out I could not get any of them to come apart and none of them have any kind of movement in them. This may be a stupid question but does that mean they r all bad...this is my first time working with this type of lifter

 

Thanks

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You must use a vise to compress them.  If they stay stuck closed when compressed that's when you leave them sitting in some solvent over night.  They will slowly decompress sucking in the solvent very slowly overnight and hopefully allowing you to work on them easier the next day.  If that doesn't work then replace them because it's going to be more trouble than it's worth.  They don't compress much, only a millimeter or two.  If you get no movement sit them in solvent or low viscosity motor oil like 5W-0 synthetic, you want it to decompress and suck something in that will help clean out the internal oil with the next squirt.  Hope that helps.

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I socked them in Disel fuel and in oil they still would not move and I also tried different kinds of clamps to get them t ok compress but there was no movement in any of them and that's after over 24 hours of socking

5 hours ago, djdevon3 said:

viscosity

 

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On 13.9.2016 at 3:56 AM, lilmike said:

I have a 95 mazda 626 and have a ticking sound which I belive r my lifters but when I pulled my lifters out I could not get any of them to come apart and none of them have any kind of movement in them. This may be a stupid question but does that mean they r all bad...this is my first time working with this type of lifter

 

Thanks

So have you actually dissasembled them?

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I tryed everything. I could not get them t ok compress or t ok come apart the only thing I could get them to do is spin and that's it

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First minute of the video shows you how to pull the inner part.

 

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I tried pulling them just like that using plyers,vise grips, and a few other things that I could get a hold of them with and still couldn't get them apart I just don't understand why they r being so difficult to come apart all the videos I've watched they come apart fairly easily I even had one of my buddies try and he couldn't get them to come out on all 16 of them

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Post a picture of it. I would just asume the reason it's hard to get apart is because it's sealed and you create a vacuum inside, but if you work a bit with em they should pop out.

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