Jump to content
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
diqiu

Tips To T-Belt And Water Pump Replacement.

Recommended Posts

I just replaced the timing belt and the water pump for my 96 Mazda626 2.0L. Last time it was done by dealer around 200kkms, now it's 310kkms.

post-26932-053904600 1280710649_thumb.jp

Look at this picture, it's about to break at anytime! Sweating......

I read the instructions written by Trebuchet03 from here, it helps a lot, here is the link:

http://www.mazda626....and-water-pump/

I follow all the way according to the above link, except two portions which I did my own way, I'd like to share with those guys who may want to DIY.

The first portion is the wp pulley, it's naughty, turning away whenever I tried to loosen the screws. Then I used a chain lock(cost $14 bucks),

post-26932-070781800 1280710718_thumb.jp

It never moves again.

The second portion is the T-belt alignment. The stubborn valve springs keep making the both sprokets inward side, the "I" and "E" are not straight, trend a bit V shape. It's hard to put on the T-belt correctly without helps.

Fortunately, there is a nut shape piece existing from each of the camshaft, where you can use 24mm or a slide wrench to force the sprokets backward and keep the TDC mark in straight level.

post-26932-013314000 1280710819_thumb.jp

Now your hands are free, and you can do it alone easily.

P.S. Before I took the original timing belt off, I marked two points shown from the photo, there are 12 teeth in between. I replaced the new timing belt not only based on the TDC mark, but also paid attention to the count of the teeth as the reference, everything match, and the engine runs perfectly.

post-26932-074684400 1280763979_thumb.jp

Good luck!

post-26932-053904600 1280710649_thumb.jp

post-26932-070781800 1280710718_thumb.jp

post-26932-013314000 1280710819_thumb.jp

post-26932-074684400 1280763979_thumb.jp

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i just did this on my 93. and i found it much easyer to order the cam locking tool from otc. its like 10 bucks it allighns your cams you can only fit it in one way. makes the job head ache free.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For the water pump pulley, you don't need to buy a special tool.

- 10mm wrench to hold one bolt tight

- Slender ratchet to loosen another bolt while you hold the other

- Once you have a bolt out, use one of the small valve cover bolts from the edge of the valve cover (it's the exact same thread as the water pump pulley bolts, but longer) to run thru the back of the pulley, but not tight. Just finger-loose

- Remove the other three bolts while the valve cover bolt holds the pulley for you

- Spin the valve cover bolt out

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i just did this to my dads 99 626 and i used two vice grips on the camshaft parts the looks like nuts and some bailing wire worked beautifully. and it had to change the water pump because it was leaking out the weep holes. now if i can only get the engine rpm to stay steady at speed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×