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davegnh

Oil Pan Removal

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Hi everyone,at the lastinspection I was told my oil pan is leaking and needs to be replaced. (1998, 626, manual trans 4 cyl.) I need to crawl under and take a look but wondered what I have to remove to take it off? I am thinking that the front pipe will need to come off--Is there anything else I need to know before I get started on this? Thanks

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Try and snug the bolts up 1st...if still leaking, remove the splash shield, the O2 sensor connector and the front pipe. (to remove the oil pan from the oil pan upper block screw one of the bolts into the weld nut hole in the pan to create a gap to get a scraper or pry tool into).

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no need to loosen anything. I just replaced my oil-pan a month ago. At first, i also thought about taking the muffler off altogether, but the wrench went there perfectly and with a little power, all the bolts came loose. Of course, the other ones are easy, just those 2 bolts are hidden, but easy even for me, the sunday mechanic. lol.

just remember, when putting on the new one, i used a liquid seal.. Works great. Put it on, let it sit there for about an hour, then put it to the engine, using your hands, put the bolts in. but don't tighten them yet..

Then, go have a couple of beers and a sandwich, and after couple of hours, go tighten the bolts. Now its like a real rubber seal. You could even replace the other engine seals like this..

But all in all, it's do-able even with the downpipe on. ;)

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no need to loosen anything. I just replaced my oil-pan a month ago. At first, i also thought about taking the muffler off altogether, but the wrench went there perfectly and with a little power, all the bolts came loose. Of course, the other ones are easy, just those 2 bolts are hidden, but easy even for me, the sunday mechanic. lol.

just remember, when putting on the new one, i used a liquid seal.. Works great. Put it on, let it sit there for about an hour, then put it to the engine, using your hands, put the bolts in. but don't tighten them yet..

Then, go have a couple of beers and a sandwich, and after couple of hours, go tighten the bolts. Now its like a real rubber seal. You could even replace the other engine seals like this..

But all in all, it's do-able even with the downpipe on. ;)

I'm getting ready to do this possibly this weekend... out of curiousity, what kind of liquid seal did you use and is it holding up for you? I have an auto tranny so I'm not sure if that makes a difference, I haven't been under there yet.

thanks

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no need to loosen anything. I just replaced my oil-pan a month ago. At first, i also thought about taking the muffler off altogether, but the wrench went there perfectly and with a little power, all the bolts came loose. Of course, the other ones are easy, just those 2 bolts are hidden, but easy even for me, the sunday mechanic. lol.

just remember, when putting on the new one, i used a liquid seal.. Works great. Put it on, let it sit there for about an hour, then put it to the engine, using your hands, put the bolts in. but don't tighten them yet..

Then, go have a couple of beers and a sandwich, and after couple of hours, go tighten the bolts. Now its like a real rubber seal. You could even replace the other engine seals like this..

But all in all, it's do-able even with the downpipe on. ;)

I'm getting ready to do this possibly this weekend... out of curiousity, what kind of liquid seal did you use and is it holding up for you? I have an auto tranny so I'm not sure if that makes a difference, I haven't been under there yet.

thanks

HI everyone, thanks for the replies. After getting under there and checking things out it turns out it was not the pan! Good thing I checked and didn't rely on my "mechanic"-- I cleaned he outside of the pan well and then expected to see a leak, after 2 days nothing--So I just painted the pan and started driving again. Oil was getting on the belts and making them slip, I needed to figure out what was wrong--After a few days I checked again, I could see some oil on the pan, not a lot. To make a long story short, it was leaking from my valve cover--It was leaking into the timing belt area and running down the side of the motor to the crankshaft pulley and onto the belts. I put a new gasket on the valvecover and the leak is fixed, I was lucky--very little oil was on the timing belt--

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Dave, glad that it worked out for you.. You can't always believe what people tell ya, until you look at it yourself.. I had the same thing happening with another problem i was told i need to replace like this many things and it'll cost me like this much.. blaah...

Stevodevo, can't remember the name of the tube, since it came off.. But look for an engine seal that takes a lot of heat, and it needs to be BLACK, if you take the red one, it's corrosive and you'll probably get a new leak in no time and this time you may need to repair the block itself.. Anyways, it's been a while and ZERO leaks.. I did find a small drop under the car one day few days ago and thought to myself, OH GOD, and i checked the oil level - almost minimum.. darn, drove it back to work, got it on the jackstand and i sighed - it was only the oil plug.. it was loose.. i fixed that and also checked my handcraft - not a single drip from the seal.. I'm pretty sure it will work for you too ;)

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