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itsamecameron

Klde Vs Klg4 Vs Klze

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Not sure if any of you knew or not but Ferrea makes a 1mm oversized valve and much better valve springs and retainers for the ZE heads. I had it done with a full radius grind on the heads ($3000). My engine guy here in Indy has been building race engines for numerous high profile racers for years and has really helped open my eyes to a lot of the BS that all the little tuner shops say is important. Hes not cheap and neither were the valves and accessories, but according to him 400 hp would be easy to get with a turbo and the valve upgrade very necessary! If you look at the attached picture it you will see the valve fully fill the area now and even though 1mm doesn't look like much its a lot of extra air flow.

I am still trying to find forged pistons and rods but seems as though I will have to have them made. I plan on putting 10-15 lbs of boost on my ZE. Stock rods won't survive long I am sure of that!

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Also so everyone is aware you can find KLZE Curve Neck engines with the 10 - 1 compression and ZE cams...I have one. I chose it for better turbo piping and overall fitment in the engine bay. I Bought it from Japan. I had them break the heads off and teak pictures of all the part numbers to confirm. Doesn't do me much good on the bottom end as I am totally replacing everything but the crank. They also sent me the ECU so the Dyno guys have a better starting point for burning a chip for me.

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I would still love to know the exact answer for ZE cams going into G4 heads. haha

ZE is HLA, G4 is SLA, and from what i have read, they don`t match. You can have your cams regrind at ColtCams.com tho, for a couple hundred bucks.

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I would still love to know the exact answer for ZE cams going into G4 heads. haha

ZE is HLA, G4 is SLA, and from what i have read, they don`t match. You can have your cams regrind at ColtCams.com tho, for a couple hundred bucks.

darn, this will have to be done then.

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You can put a turbo on any engine in the world. The question you should be asking is, should you?

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there's probably 100 turbo KL's over on PT. if that answers your question. lol. the KL is very easily turbo'd. you can even buy everything off ebay to do it. there is no real work to do it. id say the most custom thing you have to do is have an oil drain added to your oil pan.

and you can def turbo anything. i have a SOHC honda riding lawn mower with a mitsu 9B turbo on it to prove that. lol

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You'd need to fabricate some custom engine mount points (welding required). The 5th gen B truck actually used the same engine from the 3rd gen 626. It would actually be easiest to swap in another F2 or FE. If you want to try a KL of any variant you'll definitely want to make friends with a local welder.

The 6th gen B truck had a completely different engine but since it's an I4 along the same lines as the FS then the Kl should fit. It's going to require some custom fab work but I'm sure it's possible with enough determination. If you had a 6th gen B then I'd probably recommend searching out a DSM engine instead like the 4G63 similar to the stuff used by JafroGarage because according to wikipedia the 6th gens switched to Mitsubishi engines.

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Correct me if I`m wrong

 

I noticed many on here saying the de is the crank you don"t want, Unless I missed something. I agree that ze`s and g4`s are good if you want bolt on hp`s but if you want to run high boost and demand even more power the de is forged and nitrated where the others are only casted (so not as strong).

 

I have been planning a build for a while and thought this to be true but if not please let me know. I believe I have read it a few places

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Correct me if I`m wrong

 

I noticed many on here saying the de is the crank you don"t want, Unless I missed something. I agree that ze`s and g4`s are good if you want bolt on hp`s but if you want to run high boost and demand even more power the de is forged and nitrated where the others are only casted (so not as strong).

 

I have been planning a build for a while and thought this to be true but if not please let me know. I believe I have read it a few places

 

Only way to know is to take them apart and compare for yourself.  Esp. with a used motor, you don't really know what's in there unless you inspect it carefully.  I'm not sure you'll be able to tell by looking if something is forged, cryo-treated, etc.  You would probably need to take some specialized measurements, i.e. metal hardness, torsional stiffness, etc.

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Correct me if I`m wrong

 

I noticed many on here saying the de is the crank you don"t want, Unless I missed something. I agree that ze`s and g4`s are good if you want bolt on hp`s but if you want to run high boost and demand even more power the de is forged and nitrated where the others are only casted (so not as strong).

 

I have been planning a build for a while and thought this to be true but if not please let me know. I believe I have read it a few places

 

Only way to know is to take them apart and compare for yourself.  Esp. with a used motor, you don't really know what's in there unless you inspect it carefully.  I'm not sure you'll be able to tell by looking if something is forged, cryo-treated, etc.  You would probably need to take some specialized measurements, i.e. metal hardness, torsional stiffness, etc.

 

ya I agree, but that info is out there, I was just hoping some one can confirm it. I`ve read it many times, someone must know, maybe I`ve read it enough It is trustworthy :huh:

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Correct me if I`m wrong

 

I noticed many on here saying the de is the crank you don"t want, Unless I missed something. I agree that ze`s and g4`s are good if you want bolt on hp`s but if you want to run high boost and demand even more power the de is forged and nitrated where the others are only casted (so not as strong).

 

I have been planning a build for a while and thought this to be true but if not please let me know. I believe I have read it a few places

 

Only way to know is to take them apart and compare for yourself.  Esp. with a used motor, you don't really know what's in there unless you inspect it carefully.  I'm not sure you'll be able to tell by looking if something is forged, cryo-treated, etc.  You would probably need to take some specialized measurements, i.e. metal hardness, torsional stiffness, etc.

 

ya I agree, but that info is out there, I was just hoping some one can confirm it. I`ve read it many times, someone must know, maybe I`ve read it enough It is trustworthy :huh:

 

 

If it helps, the only two KL's I ever had blow up on me were a KLG4, and a KLZE.  One got rod knock, the other threw a rod through the block.

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ya I agree, but that info is out there, I was just hoping some one can confirm it. I`ve read it many times, someone must know, maybe I`ve read it enough It is trustworthy :huh:

The info i got on cranks, is that DE and ZE are identical. There are some variations in the different years due to small changes. Then you have the G4 crank that is a bit lighter than the rest.

It is said that the DE and ZE are forged, while the G4 is cast.

Also note that from what i have managed to find, Mazda have never used the DE or ZE terms. They have only 3 engines for the GE platform: KL, FS, FP. And the KL had several variations depending on the application it was used in. You have the version we refer to as "DE" that are used in the USDM and EDM GE platforms. Then you have the DE in the Millenia. Then also the "ZE" in the JDM MX6, and the "ZE" in the JDM Millenia. All of them use the same bottom end, with the only variation being pistons, cams heads.

From my research, the "best" stock-ish engine to get is a KLG4-hybrid, with a DE crank, ZE pistons, DE-heads and cams, and ported heads. If you want off-the-shelf upgrades, i would do KLG4 block, DE crank with drilled oil galleys, forged pistons/rods, colt cams grinded for SLA heads, ported G4 heads, G4 IM, and bored G4 TB.

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Sorry, that's right, I grouped the ZE with the G4 on that issue, which I shouldn`t have, the ZE should have a forged crank. The downfall I was having with the ze for me is higher compression as someone mentioned in an earlier post, 

 

With lower ratios you can run higher boost, It would be nice to know what parts are different to achieve the different comp numbers. I am assuming its just the pistons 

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It is just the pistons in most cases. They tend to use the Millenia as a baseline with the larger wrist pin, and then make different comp pistons for it.
Personally, i would do what prince recomends, get a higher comp pistons, and run less boost. It require better tuning, but i think its going to be a better car:)

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Will KLDE / KLZE (93-97) exhaust headers bolt up to the KLG4 (1998-2002)??

I believe they do, but I cannot confirm this.

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Yes they work fine. I put probe headers on my 2000 v6

 

The headers themselves line up.  However the downpipes dont line up nor are the same length.

 

This is what I bought...

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Exhaust-Header-MX6-Probe-KLZE-93-94-95-96-97-2-5L-V6-/361182223744?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5418235d80&vxp=mtr

 

Returning.

 

So, basically I can't find an exhaust for this vehicle.  Sux.

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