Jump to content

1980 Mazda 626


Recommended Posts

Car: 1980 Mazda 626 Super Deluxe

Engine: 2.0L F/MA

Transmission: 5 Speed Manual

5500_101359501733_601006733_2093110_2759071_n.jpg

Hi this is my 626 with the F/MA engine in and i have got a lynx manifold with dellorto carby setup n it not sure wat kind of setup yet to have a good look. Was just wondering if anyone new wat kind of power increase i could expext with this new setup as i have read these engine stock were 75hp. My engine also has custom grind cam extractors and full exhaust (to be redone). I was thinking of getting the cam reground bigger shaving the head a bit also. Also is there any head from a newer motor that i could put on to increase compression and power. any help would be great as i dont know much about these engine. thanks.

post-17166-12658613305479_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Unfortunately there arent too many things you can do that you havent already done.

The old MA 2.0 engine is a pretty long stroke motor (80x98mm) with this its never going want to rev that hard. The round port heads are slightly better for port flow, but not much. Changing the cam probably does the most, what are you running ? 26/66 up to 30/70 is probably a good choice, any more duration will just make you power band to narrow.

IMO shaving the head wont do alot, unfortunately the combustion chambers are pretty large and the engine already had flat topped pistons, the only way to up the compression is with dome tops.

With what you have you might get it to 120hp.

after that you need to look at forced induction.

but for a bang for your buck, an option worth considering is an engine transplant, such as the KIA FE3 from the sportage.If keeping a carb is necessary you could even look at the FE from the 929 or the F2 from the B2200, all these engines need a different bell on the gearbox tho, as they are totally different to the MA.

Or even a rotary

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Unfortunately there arent too many things you can do that you havent already done.

The old MA 2.0 engine is a pretty long stroke motor (80x98mm) with this its never going want to rev that hard. The round port heads are slightly better for port flow, but not much. Changing the cam probably does the most, what are you running ? 26/66 up to 30/70 is probably a good choice, any more duration will just make you power band to narrow.

IMO shaving the head wont do alot, unfortunately the combustion chambers are pretty large and the engine already had flat topped pistons, the only way to up the compression is with dome tops.

With what you have you might get it to 120hp.

after that you need to look at forced induction.

but for a bang for your buck, an option worth considering is an engine transplant, such as the KIA FE3 from the sportage.If keeping a carb is necessary you could even look at the FE from the 929 or the F2 from the B2200, all these engines need a different bell on the gearbox tho, as they are totally different to the MA.

Or even a rotary

thanks heaps for the info mate im not sure what the specs are ill have to ask my uncle as it use to be hes car. yeah ive been looking into forced induction but dont really wanna go down that route as of yet as im still a p- plater haha. eventually it will have a different motor anyways so maybe ill just do little things to the motor for now.

Link to post
Share on other sites

good setup the guy told me the car it was fitted to gained 120kw but as im a p-plater i cant have forced induction plus i cant really afford it at the moment. thanks for that link mate

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...

hey people im just after some advice i want to convert my car to 5 stud conversion from like a newer model rx7 and rear disk brakes. Would say the fd model rx7 stuff be good for my car or is there anything else i should look into any help would be appreciated thanks.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hmmm, anything is possible, but how much effort do you want to go to ?

I know there were similarities between the ser I, II and III rx7s and the RWD 626, but that all ended with the FC which is totally different. Rear discs did not come about until the ser III rx7 and the stud pattern changed to 4x 114.3 at the same time instead of 4x 108 or is it 110 ( i have forgotten which ).

You might need to look on an Rx7 forum to see what owners of Ser I and II Rx7s do about 5 stud conversions and rear discs.

I would guess that it might be possible to transplant S 3 rx7 stuff, and for 5 studs, IMO that'd need re drilling to make that work.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hmmm, anything is possible, but how much effort do you want to go to ?

I know there were similarities between the ser I, II and III rx7s and the RWD 626, but that all ended with the FC which is totally different. Rear discs did not come about until the ser III rx7 and the stud pattern changed to 4x 114.3 at the same time instead of 4x 108 or is it 110 ( i have forgotten which ).

You might need to look on an Rx7 forum to see what owners of Ser I and II Rx7s do about 5 stud conversions and rear discs.

I would guess that it might be possible to transplant S 3 rx7 stuff, and for 5 studs, IMO that'd need re drilling to make that work.

yeah mate its 4x110

cheers for the info yeah ill have to look around at wat other people have done and whats available thanks

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

relatively......

you would need the RWD version of the FE3 from a sportage, plus a trans from a B2000 or B2600 929 or E2000, anything with a RWD FE, F2 or G6 motor... with regards to the mounts. i am not sure what the sportage uses, but if theyre not compatible 1984 929 mounts "should" bolt up the 626 crossmember.....

Would be a worthwhile conversion to do

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...

Put a rotary in it i have been adding up costs and a 12a or 13b carb motor and engine mounts and gearbox mounts total of about $5,000 includes mod plate ect in stall motor my self.

$500=$1000 for good standerd 12a or 13b

$800 for mount fabracation.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 years later...

Hi,

So I just spent too much money on a 1979 2 dr coupe :)

It has 13 inch wheels on it and would like to know what wheels you guys upgraded too? 15x6? Also the suspensionis shot. So springs and shocks too?

I am in the United States.

Any help ?

Thanks

Unfortunately there arent too many things you can do that you havent already done.

The old MA 2.0 engine is a pretty long stroke motor (80x98mm) with this its never going want to rev that hard. The round port heads are slightly better for port flow, but not much. Changing the cam probably does the most, what are you running ? 26/66 up to 30/70 is probably a good choice, any more duration will just make you power band to narrow.

IMO shaving the head wont do alot, unfortunately the combustion chambers are pretty large and the engine already had flat topped pistons, the only way to up the compression is with dome tops.

With what you have you might get it to 120hp.

after that you need to look at forced induction.

but for a bang for your buck, an option worth considering is an engine transplant, such as the KIA FE3 from the sportage.If keeping a carb is necessary you could even look at the FE from the 929 or the F2 from the B2200, all these engines need a different bell on the gearbox tho, as they are totally different to the MA.

Or even a rotary

Link to post
Share on other sites

What do you consider too much? You have to decide whether you want the "old school" look or a hot rod.

What plans as far as upgrading engine - if any? How far and how much do you want to spend?

Wheels:

I would have preferred my S1 coupe to have kept the old school look with the 13s, but once I put the big brakes on

nothing less than 16s will fit. My S2 coupe has 16 x 7 Dragway rims with 205/55 x 16 tyres

I am running 17 x 7 rims with 205/45 x 17 tyres om my S1 - almost exact rolling diameter to the 13s originally on the car.

I don't know if it is the same in the US as Oz, but finding rims with 4 x 110mm bolt pattern and 20P or 25P offset,

is very difficult.

Suspension:

If you want your car looking like a low rider, then S1 or S2 RX7 struts will fit and lower the front approx 3", plus give you

ventilated front brakes. You can't use S3 RX7 as bolt pattern is different - 4 x 114.3mm, then S4/S5/S6 RX7 went 5 x 114.3mm.

Do your homework, if you have a half decent suspension shop close by, lower springs and heavy duty shocks for a stock 626 is plenty.

These options are readily available in Oz.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, all I want is larger wheels and a un-tired suspension. I don't want to hot rod it or low rider it. Just upgrade what it has. The springs and shocks are shot and the 13's seem to take a beating on anything other that glass smooth roads.

14's would probably work even.

I'm just thinking spacing, steering clearance, rubbing clearance of the tires etc.

I don't think the car I have can take to harsh of a suspension, probably have shocks shooting out of the strut towers!

It is my commuter car but with after market carb, a fuel regulator, HID's, electric fan, 2 and 1/2 inch straight through exhaust. I think the previous owner shaved the heads. Dont know what else.

So, I just want to make it ride nicer, shake and shimmy less, handle pot holes better, and be real loud :)

The 5 spd works pretty well, old clutch on last legs. What is a good clutch to replace with? Something with a little bit grabbier plates, springs etc? Nothing crazy.

Thanks.

What do you consider too much? You have to decide whether you want the "old school" look or a hot rod.

What plans as far as upgrading engine - if any? How far and how much do you want to spend?

Wheels:

I would have preferred my S1 coupe to have kept the old school look with the 13s, but once I put the big brakes on

nothing less than 16s will fit. My S2 coupe has 16 x 7 Dragway rims with 205/55 x 16 tyres

I am running 17 x 7 rims with 205/45 x 17 tyres om my S1 - almost exact rolling diameter to the 13s originally on the car.

I don't know if it is the same in the US as Oz, but finding rims with 4 x 110mm bolt pattern and 20P or 25P offset,

is very difficult.

Suspension:

If you want your car looking like a low rider, then S1 or S2 RX7 struts will fit and lower the front approx 3", plus give you

ventilated front brakes. You can't use S3 RX7 as bolt pattern is different - 4 x 114.3mm, then S4/S5/S6 RX7 went 5 x 114.3mm.

Do your homework, if you have a half decent suspension shop close by, lower springs and heavy duty shocks for a stock 626 is plenty.

These options are readily available in Oz.


Rotated6_2, on 21 Feb 2013 - 03:39, said:

Link to post
Share on other sites

These are some of the aftermarket parts available over here. If all else fails, you can always go genuine.

Pedders

http://www.pedders.com.au/catalogue

Monroe

http://www.monroe.com.au/trade-corner/catalogue/catalogue-search.html

Kings Springs

http://svc097.wic026v.server-web.com/catalogue.htm

Both my coupes ride on lowered springs. The S1 is on Monroe gas struts & shocks - rides really nicely even with 17s.

The S2 is on Pedders heavy duty struts and shocks(it was built to do track days, so VERY firm).

Clutch

http://www.exedy.com.au/clutch-finder

Wheels

If you're not happy with the range of wheels available in 4 x 110mm PCD and 20/25P offset,

then you could always use hub adapters to change your bolt pattern. These are not legal for us to use

over here.

http://adaptitusa.com/4-lugto4-lugadapters.aspx

Ebay US

http://www.ebay.com/itm/KYB-363022-Susp-Strut-Cartridge-Front-for-Mazda-626-1979-1982-/251083835322?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AMazda|Model%3A626|Year%3A1980&hash=item3a75c347ba&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMC-Ford-GM-Mazda-Nissan-Toyota-Rear-Shock-Absorber-Left-Right-Set-Pair-New-/350703139668?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AMazda|Model%3A626|Year%3A1980&hash=item51a7893b54&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sachs-KF606-01-New-Clutch-Kit-/360543180539?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AMazda|Model%3A626|Year%3A1980&hash=item53f20c56fb&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRW-Autospecialty-Clutch-Kit-Set-10-53006-1979-82-Mazda-626-2-0L-Gas-excl-Turbo-/260991361591?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc44c2237&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Exedy-OEM-Clutch-Kit-Mazda-626-79-81-2L-/310224765106?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item483ad640b2&vxp=mtr

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 11 months later...

I've heard bad things about Monroe shocks going bad in anywhere from several weeks to several months. I haven't heard any negative comments about KYB (Kayaba) shocks. Keep in mind that I have not used either type, but that is just the information I ran across while researching shocks for my '80 626.

Link to post
Share on other sites

If you can get KYBs locally, then get them.  Otherwise, Monroes are good for at least 60000Km

 

WINNER!!!!!! :thumbsup:

http://www.kyb-europe.com/catalogue.asp

 

Parts for the front axle Part No Part 363022 Excel-G 663019 Premium SM5304 Suspension Mounting Kit   Parts for the rear axle Part No Part 553027 Gas A Just

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...