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They "should" be ok....I dont know how much different the US spec turbo engine is the to the Aus and JDM spec ones. However there was a guy on a local forum here who discovered that non turbo FE SOHC 8v bearings did not fit into a turbo FE SOHC 8v engine, something to do with the bearing indent being on the other side. I personally havent seen this, but both my motors were ex JDM.

Otherwise I dont see why it wont work....do you know why the engine spun a bearing ? hows the oil supply ? I've never had bearing trouble on any of mine (except for one where the oil filter fell off while I was driving and the oil was pumped out onto the roadway).

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They "should" be ok....I dont know how much different the US spec turbo engine is the to the Aus and JDM spec ones. However there was a guy on a local forum here who discovered that non turbo FE SOHC 8v bearings did not fit into a turbo FE SOHC 8v engine, something to do with the bearing indent being on the other side. I personally havent seen this, but both my motors were ex JDM.

Otherwise I dont see why it wont work....do you know why the engine spun a bearing ? hows the oil supply ? I've never had bearing trouble on any of mine (except for one where the oil filter fell off while I was driving and the oil was pumped out onto the roadway).

i had never rebuilt the engine since i had gotten it, it appears it needed a good rebuild

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They "should" be ok....I dont know how much different the US spec turbo engine is the to the Aus and JDM spec ones. However there was a guy on a local forum here who discovered that non turbo FE SOHC 8v bearings did not fit into a turbo FE SOHC 8v engine, something to do with the bearing indent being on the other side. I personally havent seen this, but both my motors were ex JDM.

Otherwise I dont see why it wont work....do you know why the engine spun a bearing ? hows the oil supply ? I've never had bearing trouble on any of mine (except for one where the oil filter fell off while I was driving and the oil was pumped out onto the roadway).

i had never rebuilt the engine since i had gotten it, it appears it needed a good rebuild

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-0L-1998-FE-626-B2000-MAZDA-CONNECTING-ROD-CR326_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem20b0074944QQitemZ140392220996QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I might need a crank shaft too :(

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just get yours re ground, even if the bearings have melted themselves to the surface, 0.5mm undersize will fix that....most machinists can advise on seeing the condition....I would grind it anyway, I dont believe in just replacing the bearings without re grinding the crank.

I would not expect you'll need to replace the rods, unless the bearing failure caused the rod to overheat.....

I'd pull it apart and inspect where its gone wrong first before deciding what parts to order, as you may find something which is not what you expect.

If your'e going to leave the head on when you do this (it can be done this way) make sure that the small ends move freely in the pistons......I did not check this once, and put the new crank in a motor only to find that the small end on #3 was no good, and the side skirts of the piston were rubbing against the bore, meaning new pistons and a re bore of the block!

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just get yours re ground, even if the bearings have melted themselves to the surface, 0.5mm undersize will fix that....most machinists can advise on seeing the condition....I would grind it anyway, I dont believe in just replacing the bearings without re grinding the crank.

I would not expect you'll need to replace the rods, unless the bearing failure caused the rod to overheat.....

I'd pull it apart and inspect where its gone wrong first before deciding what parts to order, as you may find something which is not what you expect.

If your'e going to leave the head on when you do this (it can be done this way) make sure that the small ends move freely in the pistons......I did not check this once, and put the new crank in a motor only to find that the small end on #3 was no good, and the side skirts of the piston were rubbing against the bore, meaning new pistons and a re bore of the block!

t

crank def. hurt, trying to see if its better to get a crank or, cut this one, costs like $130US here to cut the crank.

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Hmmm, I dont know, being in Australia, about the only brand you can get here is ACL, and ACL bearings are fine, never had any problems with them. I dont remember any of the guys on MX6.com complaining about stuff from rock auto, I couldnt open the link for some reason.

ebay and ebay motors often sell things like bearings....theyre not difficult to manufacture, so I doubt there is much chance of buying ones that are no good

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Hmmm, I dont know, being in Australia, about the only brand you can get here is ACL, and ACL bearings are fine, never had any problems with them. I dont remember any of the guys on MX6.com complaining about stuff from rock auto, I couldnt open the link for some reason.

ebay and ebay motors often sell things like bearings....theyre not difficult to manufacture, so I doubt there is much chance of buying ones that are no good

Rock Auto there is the link again :) dude you are a great help man

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hmm, take your pick, I have known more people who use clevite.....dunno if that makes them better or not...

the pic at least shows where the indent is, make sure its the same as yours....I couldnt tell you whether theyre the same as whats in my car as the motor is still in the car, and I cant remember what was in there. as for the other motor I had, I rebuilt that as an NA and sold it in my GC coupe about 7 or 8 years ago.....

I dont think I have a shop manual for the turbo motor itself, I have the wiring supplement, I just use the regular NA shop manual for the rest of the details.

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hmm, take your pick, I have known more people who use clevite.....dunno if that makes them better or not...

the pic at least shows where the indent is, make sure its the same as yours....I couldnt tell you whether theyre the same as whats in my car as the motor is still in the car, and I cant remember what was in there. as for the other motor I had, I rebuilt that as an NA and sold it in my GC coupe about 7 or 8 years ago.....

I dont think I have a shop manual for the turbo motor itself, I have the wiring supplement, I just use the regular NA shop manual for the rest of the details.

Crank cut, thirty thou, bearings got :) just need a rod any one have spares? also I need an oil feed line for the turbo

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Measure the rod centre to centre....

All SOHC FE rods should be 152mm

DOHC rods are 150mm

and F2 Rods are 158mm

They might have sent you the wrong ones by mistake

yup its a F2 rod lol

rod sent back, they told me the engine carries a fe casting and a fh, mine is fh. never heard of a fe casting

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whats the difference between the two ? Or should I say how are you supposed to tell them apart ?

I suspect the fe castings might have been the early ones I was talking about earlier with the different indent for the bearing shells....

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whats the difference between the two ? Or should I say how are you supposed to tell them apart ?

I suspect the fe castings might have been the early ones I was talking about earlier with the different indent for the bearing shells....

the connecting rod bearings for the FE fit it, but it measures 158mm, and its slightly thicker

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Theyre on drugs......no FE engine ever had 158mm rods, thats an F2 part....they cant claim that it is.

The only choices should be DOHC = 150mm

SOHC = 152mm, with maybe different notches for bearing shells between some turbo and non turbo versions.

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Theyre on drugs......no FE engine ever had 158mm rods, thats an F2 part....they cant claim that it is.

The only choices should be DOHC = 150mm

SOHC = 152mm, with maybe different notches for bearing shells between some turbo and non turbo versions.

that is what i was thinking after you sent me the measurements, this is what they said

Good Morning,

Our book shows there is possibly 2 rods for your engine. What is the casting number off of your old rods, FE or FH? You bought the FE. E-mail us back when you know. Thanks.

Mark

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they probably dont have the dimensions, so they rely on some part number so that some guy in an office in one place tells some guy in warehouse in some other place to ship part number X.

it might be worth seeing if you can get some technical data on the parts, maybe you can work out which is the correct part from the technical data.

If I get a chance, i'll have a look in my spare parts box and see if there are any obvious markings on my FE rods and F2 rods...not sure whether i'd get to it before the weekend tho.

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they probably dont have the dimensions, so they rely on some part number so that some guy in an office in one place tells some guy in warehouse in some other place to ship part number X.

it might be worth seeing if you can get some technical data on the parts, maybe you can work out which is the correct part from the technical data.

If I get a chance, i'll have a look in my spare parts box and see if there are any obvious markings on my FE rods and F2 rods...not sure whether i'd get to it before the weekend tho.

from what i've seen, the FE rod has "FH3" on it, the F2 has an 8

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  • 4 weeks later...

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