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its a IHI RHb5. cant remember exactly what exact code it is. but i believe it was something like a VJ7? not exactly sure though. but its def made BY IHI, and in the RHB5 family.

ok, i was looking for oil send and return lines for my turbo and wasnt sure which ones would work, currently looking on ebay

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I think its a VJ5, mind you it varies with the country you are in.

You might be able to get away with VJ11 lines if you dont mind making new coolant hoses. The FET connects its coolant lines where the bypass loop normally sits on the NA models, this is mainly due to the fact that very few FETs had water cooled turbos, most were oil.

On the F2T there are two water feeds that come out of the block near where the turbo sits, as all F2T turbos were water cooled.

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I think its a VJ5, mind you it varies with the country you are in.

You might be able to get away with VJ11 lines if you dont mind making new coolant hoses. The FET connects its coolant lines where the bypass loop normally sits on the NA models, this is mainly due to the fact that very few FETs had water cooled turbos, most were oil.

On the F2T there are two water feeds that come out of the block near where the turbo sits, as all F2T turbos were water cooled.

coolant line arent a problem smile.gif , i'll see if i can find VJ11 line

this is in a 323 BTW

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I got my turbo from a guy in the US from a b2000, it water cooled, the entire FE is in the car, the T is waiting to go on.

fuel.jpg

thats my fuel table, running the standard injectors, have some 390s to drop in. gimmie a sec let take some pics

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/1301029 <<--- thats her there, the rims are now gun metal,

FE from a English 626 (120hp, 10:1), the car has on the 626 front brakes, 626 booster (changing back to 323 because i want to go fluid clutch and the booster is big) 626 bias valve. i have the 626 rear disc to put on, dot 4 fluid.

lightened flywheel, upgraded clutch, Nissan 60MM throttle-body, external walbro 255, megasquirt was running fuel only, just upgraded to extra to run EDIS (the dizzy is too close to the radiator and it slapped it and broke the cap, rotor, and hurt the magnetic pick up hence EDIS)

WJP_8401.JPG

she has been down since the broken dizzy, about a week now hence the cluttered engine bay, I've been sick so I cant get the edis installed yet.

Review: the car is so damned responsive and hasn't been fully tuned as yet biggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gif

post-20599-12634870197412_thumb.jpg

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Nice.....I have always wanted to see this done....the FE 8v motor is particularly underrated by alot of people, but its only the stock ECU thats the issue.

Turbo'ing the motor with 10:1 comp might result in alot of detonation, My motor being originally delivered with a turbo has 7.8:1 comp, thats a little low for todays fuels (I use 98RON and 13psi), But even so I would be careful....make sure you use an intercooler, and maybe water injection to keep the detonation under control. I would start with stock boost levels of 7psi, even that might be too much, keep an ear our for detonation....though with the 8v head its pretty obvious!

Good work tho, looks nice.

I have looked at the dissy issue aswell, when I had old motor mounts in my car, the engine was rocking back so far under acceleration that the dissy would hit the underside of the hood and bump off the no.2 plug wire....annoying. About the only thing you could do is put a RWD cam and front cam oil seal plate, that moves the dissy to the other end of the engine, where there is a little more room.....for me thats an issue as that where the alternator sits. I decided all the trouble of blocking off all the unused holes was not worth the effort. The other issue is that the dissy housing also contains the thermostat, it would need to be blocked off or use the RWD head position (and re pipe to the radiator etc) but using RWD coolant routing means using a different head gasket.

Its much easier probably to modify the dissy (which can be done) take out the igniter and wire the reluctor coil up to the megasquirt (I dont know if the megasquirt is compatible with 4 pole reluctor setups) and then use two coils with wasted spark.

How have you done your edis pickup ?

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Turbo'ing the motor with 10:1 comp might result in alot of detonation, My motor being originally delivered with a turbo has 7.8:1 comp, thats a little low for todays fuels (I use 98RON and 13psi), But even so I would be careful....make sure you use an intercooler, and maybe water injection to keep the detonation under control. I would start with stock boost levels of 7psi, even that might be too much, keep an ear our for detonation....though with the 8v head its pretty obvious!

7psi..... too low man lol its getting tuned with water injection and front mount for 12psi max boost (not every day)

Good work tho, looks nice.

thanks

I have looked at the dissy issue aswell, when I had old motor mounts in my car, the engine was rocking back so far under acceleration that the dissy would hit the underside of the hood and bump off the no.2 plug wire....annoying. About the only thing you could do is put a RWD cam and front cam oil seal plate, that moves the dissy to the other end of the engine, where there is a little more room.....for me thats an issue as that where the alternator sits. I decided all the trouble of blocking off all the unused holes was not worth the effort. The other issue is that the dissy housing also contains the thermostat, it would need to be blocked off or use the RWD head position (and re pipe to the radiator etc) but using RWD coolant routing means using a different head gasket.

Its much easier probably to modify the dissy (which can be done) take out the igniter and wire the reluctor coil up to the megasquirt (I dont know if the megasquirt is compatible with 4 pole reluctor setups) and then use two coils with wasted spark.

How have you done your edis pickup ?

the EDIS pickup is getting a bracket built onto the power steering bracket and the 36-1 wheel mounted on the crank, but i'm sick at the moment and contagious so i cant interact with my mech or the welder

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  • 2 weeks later...

i wouldnt even bother with water injection if your putting it on an 8v motor and if your going to turbo it you could just slap a 12v head on it i think the block is the same no matter if it came stock na

you could just run an aftermarket turbo on it instead of the stock ihi i think its a 4 bolt flange though.

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i wouldnt even bother with water injection if your putting it on an 8v motor and if your going to turbo it you could just slap a 12v head on it i think the block is the same no matter if it came stock na

you could just run an aftermarket turbo on it instead of the stock ihi i think its a 4 bolt flange though.

Where I live getting a 12v head isn't an option lol I live in the caribbean. If I could have found one I would have a fe3 in here and turbos aren't cheap either. The car is fast as is so I'm really happy with it just trying to get it more reliable

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  • 1 month later...

Yeah, the turbo engine uses whats known as a high port or a big port head.

About the only other heads that are similar might be any of the MPEFI heads from 626's or 929's, you might be able to get some gaskets for those, but seriously, I would not bother, just use an 02 sensor safe (with no acetic acid) automotive silicone sealant.

I do this alot and have never had any problems, the key to that is clean surfaces (cleaned with acetone) after the old gasket is removed, and dont use too much, just a smear and tighen the bolts to half the speciifed torque until the silicone sets (which is usually 12-24 hours) then torque the bolts all the way.

I have put together quite a few engines this way using nothing but silicone sealant for every gasked except the head gasket and ones on the exhaust pipe....you can even use that stuff on the exhaust but its only good to 260oC, so its no good on my exhaust pipe lol

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Yeah, most Mazdas with a G-series gearbox use the same parts. maybe take a pic of the parts in question I dont know for sure which ones your talking about.

I dont know what the part numbers are though.

You can also get nylon shifter bushings from a member on mx6.com called cf_z he makes nylon ones, I have them in both my GC and GD and they tighten up the shifter feel alot. There are various other people making aftermarket bushings, I think there is someone on clubprotege.com making them also.

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Yeah, most Mazdas with a G-series gearbox use the same parts. maybe take a pic of the parts in question I dont know for sure which ones your talking about.

I dont know what the part numbers are though.

You can also get nylon shifter bushings from a member on mx6.com called cf_z he makes nylon ones, I have them in both my GC and GD and they tighten up the shifter feel alot. There are various other people making aftermarket bushings, I think there is someone on clubprotege.com making them also.

just sent him an email :)

img-297885-1-ssbushings-ddrop.jpg

this is the other one i mean, but he says he doesn't make them

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  • 2 weeks later...

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