1984-Mazda-626

How to Change Your Clutch

19 posts in this topic

Ok, im doing my clutch and CV Joints on my 1984 626 which is the same from 1983-1987 so if you need to know what to do ask me and ill explain in detail.

this is what ive done so far.

1.Disconnect battery

2.Take off air cleaner for access.

3.Take off the clutch cable

4.take off the earth leads too the gearbox

6.took out the shift linkage and sway bar (i think its called that)

7.took out the speedo cable.

From underneath of the car:

8. drained the gearbox oil whilst doing the following

9. took off the cross member (6 bolts)

10. took off the flywheel cover plate

11. put gearbox drain plug back in.

finshed under the car for now

12. jacked the car up (should of told u before) with 4 jacks not on the left hand subframe though.

13.Took off the wheels

14.take off the centre nut with a rattle gun if ya got one :smile:

15. take out the split pin and nut on the tie rods

16. take off the strut bolts and take them out ( the brake assemble will be hanging)

17. with the aid of a pulley kit pull the disc from the drive shaft, and pull it to a side

17a. for the right hand side you need to take the bracket onto the side of the block

18. to remove the cv joints this is what i did.

Got a tyre leave or large screwdriver and leaver the left side out a bit by bit then it just pulled out.

For the right side i got the tyre leaver and whacked the bracket that goes onto the block so it slowly pulled out :smile:

Thats all ive done so far ill update it after to tell you how to take the gearbox out :smile:

Stay tuned

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Both of my CV joints needed replaced and I found it cheaper to buy a whole new remanufactured axle assembley from the parts store. I used car quest. I paid just under $100 and had them both replaced in about 2 hours. B)

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Ok now to pull out the gearbox :smile:

1. jacked up the gearbox just to take the weight off it.

2. removed both the engine mounts

3. jacked up the engine (underneath the sump)

4. took off the left hand suspension frame (3 bolts ) and let that drop down out of the way.

5. un do the gearbox bolts 4 on the top and two each side underneath it.

6. twist and pull whilst leaving the jack underneath of it (i used a trolly jack) then once it clears the flywheel let the jack down and place the gearbox on the ground :smile: its not that heavy.

and to put it back together ? just do everything in reverse :smile:

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Did all that by hand :P A good day work. But got it done.

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don't forget to remove the starter from the transmission housing and don't let it hang off the wires.

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You don't have to take out strut or tie rod. There's enough space to take drive shaft out after detaching ball joint. And remember to put some tap into drive shaft hole, so differential gears won't drop when both driveshafts are detached.

My technical english isn't best but...

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It is easier to remove the tie rod because that way you can remove the driveshaft and brake disc as one unit, you do not need to disassemble them. The strut probably doesnt need to come out.

Do remember to be careful with the diff gears.

al :smile:

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I think it's advisable to remove the struts completely. At first I didn't do this when I repaired my CVs and in the process when pulling the strut to one side, I succeeded in tearing apart the top rubber mounting for the strut. Everything was easier when I removed the struts and I put new springs on them while I had them out. New top rubber cost $300 au.

For furture reference. I'd like to hear more about how the differential gears drop down if both axles are removed. Has this happened to anyone? Was I just lucky? I had rags stuffed into the holes - could that have helped?

My 626 is getting hard to change into 1st gear and I suspect it may need new synchro rings soon. anyone done this?

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It is easier to remove the tie rod because that way you can remove the driveshaft and brake disc as one unit, you do not need to disassemble them. The strut probably doesnt need to come out.

Do remember to be careful with the diff gears.

al :smile:

It propably depends where you're living. Because there in Southern Finland they're spreading salt half of the year on roads, usually tie rod and strut bolts are very rusty. Driveshaft bolt is much easier to loose. Then you can leave whole brakedisc/strut/etc. system there. Actually, once when I was changing rear strut, I had to drill out both strut bolts... Welcome to Finland...

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Opps sorry for that 1984-Mazda-626 :blink: ! My mind is wandering off somewhere and my advices were kinda jammed lately -_- . By the way just my two cents for any clutch replacement, since the transaxle/transmission must be separated from the engine I consider this as a hard labor. So when our clutch is at fault, make sure to inspect the entire clutch system once you've disassembled everything and have the clutch out to see if there's additional parts that needs replacing.

Oh well as the saying goes: "better to do a thorough job once than a half-hearted job twice" :rolleyes:

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Once you have removed the cover, you'll see the clutch. Block the engine with the blocking tool, or, if lacking, a clean piece of cloth. Losen the four 10 mm screws of the clutch plate and remove the plate. Carefully open the securing of the 24 mm central screw. Now, once the plate is removed, you can't block the engine as easily as done before. If still lacking a blocking tool ;-), you may either put the engine to first gear and draw the hand brake (block it with a strong rubber band or something like that), or, maybe better, screw in the four plate holding screws, with springs (use some suitable washers), but without the plate. Now losen the 24 mm screw. This will take some amount of power ... In any case, don't try to block the engine.

Now remove the complete clutch. Reinstall all metal rings, put away old friction rings, and install new ones, piece by piece. I now put my GMC bed mat and reinstall the complete clutch, tighten the central screw with a torque of 80-100 Nm, secure it. Reinstall (new) springs, clutch plate and tighten the four 10 mm screws with a torque of 8-12 Nm.. Hope, this helps

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Also as to why i removed the strut/whole LHF suspension it may seem like un necessary work etc but beleive me after doing 5+ of these it makes it all that much easier

trust me you do the extra work and the job is that much easier.

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It propably depends where you're living. Because there in Southern Finland they're spreading salt half of the year on roads, usually tie rod and strut bolts are very rusty. Driveshaft bolt is much easier to loose. Then you can leave whole brakedisc/strut/etc. system there. Actually, once when I was changing rear strut, I had to drill out both strut bolts... Welcome to Finland...

it also depends on how well you've taken care of your ride. i'm changing struts to my '86 GT, and all the strut bolts came out easily, and i live in kuopio, in the middle of finland, and they use a LOT of salt on the main roads here. the shop that delivered the new shocks fucked it up though, i got 2 sets of front and not any rear struts, so i have to wait for the new ones to arrive sometime this week.

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Interesting, not living in a place where the roads get salted I wouldn't know that....I go skiing here with a drive up the mountains once a year, but they dont salt the roads, just clear the roads with graders.

If I lived in a place where the rust was that bad, i'd be using stainless steel bolts where possible and greasing the others where not possible and maybe using cold gal paint (with zinc) to limit corrosion (but as you say that takes a bit of time and effort, and it more preventative).

The number of times I take my car apart, I dont think there would be much time for rust to develop........

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The number of times I take my car apart, I dont think there would be much time for rust to develop........

Aint that the truth!! no truer words have been spoken

Doc

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8. drained the gearbox oil whilst doing the following

OK... should post here. Despite the WSM and guides, I could not get the bloody speedo gear out to fill the gearbox. Turns out you need the transmission to be in reverse before the gear will pop out. NOBODY tells you this... so I am now!

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No, you should not need to have the transmission in reverse. about 99% of the time when I have removed them the transmission has been in neutral.

I usually leave the speedo cable connected so I have the screw on part of the cable end to give a bit more area to grab hold of. I am not suggesting that you grab onto the cable itself though.

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No, you should not need to have the transmission in reverse. about 99% of the time when I have removed them the transmission has been in neutral.

I usually leave the speedo cable connected so I have the screw on part of the cable end to give a bit more area to grab hold of. I am not suggesting that you grab onto the cable itself though.

Strangely enough, couldn't get any joy in any gear apart from reverse. Even in neutral the gear wouldn't pop out. I left the speedo cable connected like you mentioned, and once in reverse it gave me that little bit more leverage to remove it. Considering the oil hadn't been dropped for 20 years (long term mechanic claimed it was a "sealed unit" and "never needed changing" despite the Mazda handbook) it was fine in colour, but had lost its viscosity (way to thin). Refilled with Castrol 75W80 and a tube of Nulon G70 - feels like a completely different box now!

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Thanks for all the information in this topic!
Yesterday my dad an I changed the clutch on my '87 1.6 and we choose to took the route to remove the left suspension, slide the gearbox to the left and replace the clutch that way.

Taking it easy it only took us 7 hours including a parts run for the small bearing. With new oil in the gearbox if feels like a brand new gearbox. before it did not want to slide from 3rd into 2nd above 15MPH, now no problems at all anymore.

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