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Coleman

1997 Clicking Noise!

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Hello everyone!

Long time Mazda listener..first time caller!! :smile:

I've got a 1996 Mazda 626 2.0l lx 5 manual. Her name is Brittney. She's maroon..a little hard..but she still gets me back and forth to work!

Recently, I've done some work to her:

New water pump. 50k ago

Timing belt. 50k ago

New cv joints.

Right and left control arms.

Right and left inner and outter tie rods.

Tires.

Alignment.

Stablizing bar linkages.

Brakes.

Rotors.

Basically I do all this fun stuff in my garage with my Craftsman tool collection!

Story: I religiously change her oil every 3000 miles with a filter. I never miss a beat. One day I notcied I had a filter I couldn't get off. It happened after I put her up on the ramp with the engine being hot. I got distracted and had to leave for a while and came back to it after it cooled. I cranked and cranked. So I decided to let it go with one filter no change. Figured she would be okay Since the filter was pretty much stuck on...I took it to a Valvoline quick lube...payed for the srvice..btw..I have never done....and they replaced it no problem.but this time they put in synthetic high milage oil. No worries right?!! This may or may not have anything to do with it.

Problem : To make a long stoy short...ever since then I've notived a ticking noise. Not when I start it up...but randomly. It last for 30 seconds to 1 minnute maybe. This is while it's idleing and after a few minutes of running after cold start. Now after I drive it 30 miles to work...I can let it sit and it won't make this ticking noise at all. Also I've noticed now..I can hear the same ticking while giving the car gas in all gears.

This ticking almost sounds like those snap bang things kids throw on the ground and are sold during the 4th of July time.

Does anyone have any ideas? To be honest..I think it's coming from the passenger side of the vehicle.

If I guessed...I would say lifters..or belt tension assembly. Only reason I think assembly is because I hear it when I give the car gas and am accelerating. If I shift into neutral and rev it up..the sound is gone.

Hope this gives someone an idea enough to help get me pointed in the right direction. Also..It doesn't use oil or leak oil.

Thank You in advance..

-Coleman

ps....she has 167,000 miles..some around the block!!! And she's a 1996 model..not a 97 like I said in the header.

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When you did the timing belt did you do the tensioner? Your symptoms are classic tensioner problems (a common failure).

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No sir, I did not do the belt tension assembly. Slap me silly and call me Sally.

-I'm not loseing power or anything..what are my option or worse case scenario if I just let it go? Wreck the belt? Screw up the timing? Scramble the puter?

Edit: I looked at it a bit closer this morning with some guys from work. I honestly don't think it's the belt tensioner. It almost sounds like a selenoid snapping or something..possible from one of the vacc lines. Particularly right next to the valve cover. Whne looking at the motor from the fron..it would be on the left back side...with one bolt holding it to a bracket.

Any thoughts anyone?

Thanks in advance!

-Coleman

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you were right with your first suspicion. It is most likely a lifter (they're hydraulic) If you suddenly change the oil like that (you're not supposed to move to synthetic after using conventional, especially on high-mileage cars), but that might not be the problem. Did the oil weight change at all? another thing to look at is the oil filter. Check and see if it's full of oil.

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Thanks for the replies thus far eveyone.

To answer the question...oil weight as far as I know was the same. 5w30. I've always used Castrol 5w30.

If it's the lifter..I'm considering changing the oil back to conventional and replacing one quart with Risoline. Think this might help or is there something better out there like ATF or auto-rx?

Thanks again!!

-Coleman

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Could also be a fuel injector. I'd go to an auto parts store and pick up a mechanic's stethescope. Probe around (carfully!) including the injectors. I used mine to isolate a sqeaking pulley, pretty handy tool.

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What, the stethoscope or the ticking noise? Any autoparts store will have the stethoscope for about $15 and like DaveB said, they're very handy.

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Hi, i'm new here, but would help as I can. For what i've read you shouldn't have a real problem at all. What happens is that the molecules in synthetic oil are smaller than in regular oil, that makes it somehow thiner and that don't have to be with the weight of the oil. As you said you hear the noise for about 30 sec. to 1min when you start it, thats because the oil pump have not delivered the oil to the lifters in that time, but as the oil gets there it stops. You wont have that problem with regular oil because it is thicker and stays in the passages for longer (so it don't take time to get to the lifters).

You shouldn't have changed the oil at that many miles but if it is working right and you dont have any type of leaks then keep using it in a little higher weight than the one the factory recomends.

Hope this works for you :smile:

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I have the same problem. Only happens in the morning or after sitting for a few hours. At first it was a very lite tapping noise for a few seconds. And then it just started to get a bit louder for longer. Once the car is warm it stops.

Not the timing tensioner cause I put a new one in months ago. This been happen since last year & still don't know what it is. Thinking the valve is doing it, could be the lifter, and that's about the only things I could come up with.

I use to use full syn oil 5w30 by castrol, but I switch to their high milage oil 10w30/40, sometime going back down to the 5w30 weight. Using the thicker weight cause I have a valve seal leaking oil. And I've been using the high milage oil for a few years now.

But if anyone finds a solution, please let us know, thanks...

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I had the same problem a few months ago before my last oil change. The noise is coming from the lifters and making a change in the oil weight made a huge difference for me. I have a 93 LX I4 with 203,898 miles and I can't hear the car running :P . I too was thinking of switching to synthetic but got the same advice not to, so I opted to buy the high mileage oil, added Lucas Oil treatment and the car runs like new.

If making the change in the oil weight and maybe adding an additive like Lucas or BG, if my memory serves me right the lifters can be adjusted just enough to stop the ticking.

I hope this helps.

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Same issue here! Used to tap loud for the first few minutes until it warmed up, now its doing it longer. I'm using regular 5w30 oil and recently changed the timing belt and tensioner as well. Any more insight on a solution?

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When you did the timing belt did you do the tensioner? Your symptoms are classic tensioner problems (a common failure).

this was my problem... the tensioner spring caused this for me

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There is a quite easy way to find out if it is the oil change that made it or if it is in the timing belt area.

When you start the car and you hear the ticking, wait approx. 20 seconds and then turn it off again.

Now start the car again and if you don't hear the sound it has to do with the oil change, if you hear the ticking you have a slack in the timing belt.

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do u have enough oil in Brittney, I would def say a lifter

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OKay..been over a year and Brittney is still driving. I've passed 180,000 miles smile.gif

I've still got the ticking. Random when she sits and idles. Almost constant when driving down the road in all gears.

Still religiously changing the oil. Currently she is out of commision though. The strut coil spring broke. Too many hard pot holes in Iowa thaw I think I hit a good one and brokeit. Blew my tire at 55 mph also! Going to tear into her again.

As for the folks who replied. I appreciate it greatly. On the tioing belt issue..it was done almost 80k ago. Think it would need a new one or it's worth pulling? Not sure if I want to put the money into it anymore.

Thanks again!!

-Coleman

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OKay..been over a year and Brittney is still driving. I've passed 180,000 miles smile.gif

I've still got the ticking. Random when she sits and idles. Almost constant when driving down the road in all gears.

Still religiously changing the oil. Currently she is out of commision though. The strut coil spring broke. Too many hard pot holes in Iowa thaw I think I hit a good one and brokeit. Blew my tire at 55 mph also! Going to tear into her again.

As for the folks who replied. I appreciate it greatly. On the tioing belt issue..it was done almost 80k ago. Think it would need a new one or it's worth pulling? Not sure if I want to put the money into it anymore.

Thanks again!!

-Coleman

My ticks alllllll the time...On and off...on and off. I can guarantee it is noisy injectors in my case, I would bet in your as well. i would also bet that the fact that it started with the oil change is coincidence. You probably just started paying more attention cuz of the filter not coming off. ;)

Its a super common thing in almost all high mileage cars and doesn't affect performance at all. Though like you, I wish mine would go away. smile.gif

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My problem front r clicking was the M A P sensor. I also used a stethoscope. It's by the firewall. One of the many  black  solenoids. 

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The relays outside of the fuse box. Gray and they're about three inches tall and an inch or so squared. It took awil to find one  for replacing that is

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