n5yntx

Car Won't Start

33 posts in this topic

My daughter was driving her 626 4 Cyl. when it just died. The first thing I checked was if the fuel pump activated when the ignition was on, and it did not. I jumped the fuel pump and it still wouldn't start. I later figured out that the fuel pump would activate when I did try to start it, because I could here it as I turned the key off for a couple of seconds. I then bought a new fuel pump and installed it and the car still wouldn't start. I then check the spark plugs with a tester, and they all had a spark. The timing belt is also intact. I disconnected the fuel line at the fuel filter, and activated the fuel pump and the fuel shot out with a lot of force, so the pump was working well. The car does not have an immobilizer system in it. For some reason, the fuel pump is not activating when I turn on the key. I know it should come on for a couple of seconds, and then it is supposed to activate once the engine is turned on after it gets signals from the sensors.

I figured that the problem may have been the crankshaft position sensor, Camshaft position sensor, or the pressure regulator. I think there is also supposed to be a pressure regulator solenoid which I am not sure of its location. I then bought a scanner, and to my surprise, it came up with no code. This has totally confused me because I am sure if one of the sensors was bad, it would come up with a code error. Is it possible for a sensor to be bad and not show up on the scanner?

I am stumped as to what is wrong. I am thinking it is the pressure regulator. I am not sure on how to test it. I did remove it and apply vacuum, and try to blow air through it without any success, but I am sure I need a lot more force to get air through it. I did try to disconnect the fuel line on the return line from the regulator and turn over the car, and some gas did come out.

I am not sure how to check the fuel pressure? Do I just hook up a gage from the fuel filter, and can this be done with just the fuel pump activated, and if so what is the pressure reading?

I feel like ordering the ckp, cmp, and the pressure regulator, but I don't want to throw away money. The fuel pump was probably a waste of money already.

I am just stumped on what the problem could be. Any help would be much appreciated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well most probably is that your ignition died that happens to these cars.

Did u try to see if u have a spark?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The fuel pump will run for s short period while cranking and then turn off, but will not continue to run unless the engine is running. This is a safety feature in case the car is involve in a frontal crash and the engine is not running. The ecu will provide the signal to the fuel pump relay once the engine is running.

If you have fuel and spark, I would check to see if you might have flooded the engine by all this cranking. Remove the spark plugs and see if they are wet. If you haven't changed your plugs for awhile you might just want to replace them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
My daughter was driving her 626 4 Cyl. when it just died. The first thing I checked was if the fuel pump activated when the ignition was on, and it did not. I jumped the fuel pump and it still wouldn't start. I later figured out that the fuel pump would activate when I did try to start it, because I could here it as I turned the key off for a couple of seconds. I then bought a new fuel pump and installed it and the car still wouldn't start. I then check the spark plugs with a tester, and they all had a spark. The timing belt is also intact. I disconnected the fuel line at the fuel filter, and activated the fuel pump and the fuel shot out with a lot of force, so the pump was working well. The car does not have an immobilizer system in it. For some reason, the fuel pump is not activating when I turn on the key. I know it should come on for a couple of seconds, and then it is supposed to activate once the engine is turned on after it gets signals from the sensors.

I figured that the problem may have been the crankshaft position sensor, Camshaft position sensor, or the pressure regulator. I think there is also supposed to be a pressure regulator solenoid which I am not sure of its location. I then bought a scanner, and to my surprise, it came up with no code. This has totally confused me because I am sure if one of the sensors was bad, it would come up with a code error. Is it possible for a sensor to be bad and not show up on the scanner?

I am stumped as to what is wrong. I am thinking it is the pressure regulator. I am not sure on how to test it. I did remove it and apply vacuum, and try to blow air through it without any success, but I am sure I need a lot more force to get air through it. I did try to disconnect the fuel line on the return line from the regulator and turn over the car, and some gas did come out.

I am not sure how to check the fuel pressure? Do I just hook up a gage from the fuel filter, and can this be done with just the fuel pump activated, and if so what is the pressure reading?

I feel like ordering the ckp, cmp, and the pressure regulator, but I don't want to throw away money. The fuel pump was probably a waste of money already.

I am just stumped on what the problem could be. Any help would be much appreciated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Well most probably is that your ignition died that happens to these cars.

Did u try to see if u have a spark?

Yes, I put a tester in between the plug and cable and cranked the car over and I had a spark for each cylinder

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The fuel pump will run for s short period while cranking and then turn off, but will not continue to run unless the engine is running. This is a safety feature in case the car is involve in a frontal crash and the engine is not running. The ecu will provide the signal to the fuel pump relay once the engine is running.

If you have fuel and spark, I would check to see if you might have flooded the engine by all this cranking. Remove the spark plugs and see if they are wet. If you haven't changed your plugs for awhile you might just want to replace them

I did check out the recently installed spark plugs and they were no wet. I know I have fuel to the fuel filter, but am not sure it is getting to the fuel injectors. I am not sure how to check out the pressure regulator which is what I suspect is the problem. I get no error codes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did you first check these or take them out and re-set them??:

a) fuse

b) relay

c) gas cap properly closed, tightened (seated)

img-263872-1-1-relay-fuse-EGI.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Did you first check these or take them out and re-set them??:

a) fuse

b) relay

c) gas cap properly closed, tightened (seated)

img-263945-1-1-relay-fuse-EGI.jpg

The fuses and relays are in total different order then in the pic. i have a 1997 mazda 626 lx, what year is the one in the pic.

Also where would the fuel pump be located on this model.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheri626,

The pic is of my 98'LX (4cyl). Check your fuse box lid and see if gives you your fuse location. I believe the pump and level sending unit are both found in the tank. I suggest getting a Haynes manual to help troubleshoot your system before you spend any extra $$$ before you find/fix the 'real' problem. Good luck!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Did you first check these or take them out and re-set them??:

a) fuse

b) relay

c) gas cap properly closed, tightened (seated)

img-263987-1-1-relay-fuse-EGI.jpg

The fuses and relays are in total different order then in the pic. i have a 1997 mazda 626 lx, what year is the one in the pic.

Also where would the fuel pump be located on this model.

It is the first thing I checked, and there were no problems with the fuse, relay, and the gas cap was secured.

I need to figure out how to test the fuel pressure regulator. I did remove it and put suction on it and tried to blow air through it, but nothing would go through. I am pretty sure it is the problem, but want to know how to properly test it. There are no error codes when I put on the scanner, which really baffled me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I checked with one local dealership to see if the 98' cars have a regulator control solenoid and it seems that they do not (?). My car is not here right now so I can't look to see if I have one inline from the vaccum hose of the fuel pressure regulator(??).

I would suggest that you first purchase a work manual (Haynes? $18.00) that will show you how to test the fuel pressure regulator....it seems to be involved and you will have to purchase a testing kit (if you don't have one already). Also, there's the safety issues involved with testing.

The fuel pressure regulator is costly $$$ and if you spend more for a testing kit .......well you may have to weight the cost and maybe take your car to a reliable mechanic to troubleshoot and fix ???

Considering the above cost (and options) and what you tried and spent already, I would try replacing the fuel filter (less costly $$) before taking it to the mechanic. At least, if it doesn't fix the problem then that is one less part that he will charge you for the repair......??? Good luck!!

BTW- Do you have a regulator control solenoid on your car?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I checked with one local dealership to see if the 98' cars have a regulator control solenoid and it seems that they do not (?). My car is not here right now so I can't look to see if I have one inline from the vaccum hose of the fuel pressure regulator(??).

I would suggest that you first purchase a work manual (Haynes? $18.00) that will show you how to test the fuel pressure regulator....it seems to be involved and you will have to purchase a testing kit (if you don't have one already). Also, there's the safety issues involved with testing.

The fuel pressure regulator is costly $$$ and if you spend more for a testing kit .......well you may have to weight the cost and maybe take your car to a reliable mechanic to troubleshoot and fix ???

Considering the above cost (and options) and what you tried and spent already, I would try replacing the fuel filter (less costly $$) before taking it to the mechanic. At least, if it doesn't fix the problem then that is one less part that he will charge you for the repair......??? Good luck!!

BTW- Do you have a regulator control solenoid on your car?

No, my car does not have a regulator control solenoid. The fuel filter is brand new. Another man on a different site asked me if I checked the ignition coil even though I had sparks at the spark plugs, and I told him that I hadn't.

I then looked at my Haynes Repair Manual which I don't really like, and prefer the Chilton, but can't find one for my model year. It does not show how to test the pressure regulator. The manual gives the resistence for the primary and secondary resistence for the ignition coil. The secondary was in spec, but the primary did not have any resistence at all, so it may be a problem.

I was getting kind of upset trying to work on the car this morning and finally sprayed a little starting fluid in the air intake and the car did not even try to start. I have never had a problem with getting an engine started if there is a spark using starting fluid, so it kind of affirms that there is a problem with the ignition. I ordered an ignition coil and wires from Rock Auto. It is money well spent since I have not changed either, and it is what is included in a tune up anyway. I don't have any experience working on the fuel and ignition systems on cars.

I have spent a lot of hours trying to figure out this problem. I always assumed that a code reader would send a code for any problem, but I was obviously wrong. It is like trying to find a needle in a haystack.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I checked with one local dealership to see if the 98' cars have a regulator control solenoid and it seems that they do not (?). My car is not here right now so I can't look to see if I have one inline from the vaccum hose of the fuel pressure regulator(??).

I would suggest that you first purchase a work manual (Haynes? $18.00) that will show you how to test the fuel pressure regulator....it seems to be involved and you will have to purchase a testing kit (if you don't have one already). Also, there's the safety issues involved with testing.

The fuel pressure regulator is costly $$$ and if you spend more for a testing kit .......well you may have to weight the cost and maybe take your car to a reliable mechanic to troubleshoot and fix ???

Considering the above cost (and options) and what you tried and spent already, I would try replacing the fuel filter (less costly $$) before taking it to the mechanic. At least, if it doesn't fix the problem then that is one less part that he will charge you for the repair......??? Good luck!!

BTW- Do you have a regulator control solenoid on your car?

No, my car does not have a regulator control solenoid. The fuel filter is brand new. Another man on a different site asked me if I checked the ignition coil even though I had sparks at the spark plugs, and I told him that I hadn't.

I then looked at my Haynes Repair Manual which I don't really like, and prefer the Chilton, but can't find one for my model year. It does not show how to test the pressure regulator. The manual gives the resistence for the primary and secondary resistence for the ignition coil. The secondary was in spec, but the primary did not have any resistence at all, so it may be a problem.

I was getting kind of upset trying to work on the car this morning and finally sprayed a little starting fluid in the air intake and the car did not even try to start. I have never had a problem with getting an engine started if there is a spark using starting fluid, so it kind of affirms that there is a problem with the ignition. I ordered an ignition coil and wires from Rock Auto. It is money well spent since I have not changed either, and it is what is included in a tune up anyway. I don't have any experience working on the fuel and ignition systems on cars.

I have spent a lot of hours trying to figure out this problem. I always assumed that a code reader would send a code for any problem, but I was obviously wrong. It is like trying to find a needle in a haystack.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My 98 mazda having same issue as your, I had my car towed to local shop and they could not figure it out. I had the car towed again to local mazda dealership and they have the car for almost a week. They are not sure, what to change, since their is no engine light or any code to read.They call me today and they think it's fuel pump, and they are about 90% sure that is the problem.... need to replace the fuel pump.. total cost for this $1050.00 part and labor.... Did you replaced your ignition coil and did that resolved your problem.....any help would be great

I checked with one local dealership to see if the 98' cars have a regulator control solenoid and it seems that they do not (?). My car is not here right now so I can't look to see if I have one inline from the vaccum hose of the fuel pressure regulator(??).

I would suggest that you first purchase a work manual (Haynes? $18.00) that will show you how to test the fuel pressure regulator....it seems to be involved and you will have to purchase a testing kit (if you don't have one already). Also, there's the safety issues involved with testing.

The fuel pressure regulator is costly $$$ and if you spend more for a testing kit .......well you may have to weight the cost and maybe take your car to a reliable mechanic to troubleshoot and fix ???

Considering the above cost (and options) and what you tried and spent already, I would try replacing the fuel filter (less costly $$) before taking it to the mechanic. At least, if it doesn't fix the problem then that is one less part that he will charge you for the repair......??? Good luck!!

BTW- Do you have a regulator control solenoid on your car?

No, my car does not have a regulator control solenoid. The fuel filter is brand new. Another man on a different site asked me if I checked the ignition coil even though I had sparks at the spark plugs, and I told him that I hadn't.

I then looked at my Haynes Repair Manual which I don't really like, and prefer the Chilton, but can't find one for my model year. It does not show how to test the pressure regulator. The manual gives the resistence for the primary and secondary resistence for the ignition coil. The secondary was in spec, but the primary did not have any resistence at all, so it may be a problem.

I was getting kind of upset trying to work on the car this morning and finally sprayed a little starting fluid in the air intake and the car did not even try to start. I have never had a problem with getting an engine started if there is a spark using starting fluid, so it kind of affirms that there is a problem with the ignition. I ordered an ignition coil and wires from Rock Auto. It is money well spent since I have not changed either, and it is what is included in a tune up anyway. I don't have any experience working on the fuel and ignition systems on cars.

I have spent a lot of hours trying to figure out this problem. I always assumed that a code reader would send a code for any problem, but I was obviously wrong. It is like trying to find a needle in a haystack.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

download this - workshop manual - it has all the info you need to test your fpr and coil/distributor. have you changed the fuel filter? are you getting gas past the fuel filter?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, I have the same problem in my 02' lx 626. I love these fourms because I am going to try everything you guys put on here.

I don't hear a humm in the gas tank when I turn the car to on, so I think it might be the fuel pump, But its inside the tank so that would suck.

I hope that maybe there is something else.

I think the spark plugs being wet is a big possiblity because when I ran out of gas I kept try to start it, when I got more gas I kept trying to start it with no success, so I probably flooded the crap out of it..I will let you all know what happens

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the fuel pumps in these cars don't prime , they only run while cranking or running.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Been having the same issue with the wife's car. It will start when it wants to and die maybe an hour or 2 days later. It will crank forever and not start. If I let it sit for awhile it may start(it may be sitting for 10 mins or 2 days). The timing belt has been replaced and fuel pump is working. I've also replaced the coil pack, crank position sensor, spark plugs and wires, and cleaned the iac valve. I too am getting no error codes from my tester and getting frustrated with this car. Gonna replace the fuel filter and check the pressure regulator today. I'm hoping this fixes it or if someone else has an answer would be great.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok so now I've replaced the fuel filter and pressure regulator. Started fine and drove around the block, come back and shut it off, doesn't start again. If anyone knows what it could be or what I should check, please let me know. Also when I replaced the crank position sensor, I tested the old one and the resistance I got was about 385. I've read it should be in the 500-580 range but when I got the new one it was only about 395. Do you think I might have got a bad one?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i would agree , only other thing that comes to mind is checking the primary/secondary on the coil.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not sure why I didn't do it at the beginning but decided to pull off the egr valve and give it a cleaning a few days ago. It was caked pretty good. So far it seems to be running fine, hopefully it's fixed now. Just waiting for it to act up again, well not really. It has gone a week running fine before it doesn't start again, so giving it some time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now