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MazRedMan

Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement-front

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Part II (See Pic #3, #4, #4B, #5)

Step 4- Remove lower 7mm hex socket bolt (A) from caliper. (see Pic #3 above)

Step 5- Using 6

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Part III (See Pic #5, #6, #7, #8, #9)

Step 7- Remove brake pads away from rotors (slide horizontally; see Pic #5 above).

Step 8- Remove both upper and lower anti-rattle clips and clean (re-use if still in good

shape).

img-243173-1-Pic006.jpg

img-243173-2-Pic007.jpg

Step 9- Remove (slide off) caliper from pivot bolt (BB) and fully secure with wire.

Step 10-Remove both upper and lower 17mm bracket bolts (C&D); then remove bracket.

img-243173-3-Pic008.jpg

Step 11-Remove old rotor disc.

img-243173-4-Pic009.jpg

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Part IV (See Pic #10, #11)

Step 12-Reverse procedure order and replace with new rotor and pads.

img-243175-1-Pic010.jpg

img-243175-2-Pic011.jpg

Step 13-Refill brake fluid reservoir back to proper level with new clean fluid.

Step 14-Lower vehicle and lightly pump brake pedal to reset pressure of caliper piston

onto pads and rotors

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MazRedMan- I did not know you had aftermarket rims on your car!! Your car is very much like my sister's and mine. I have a 99 ES V6 Manual, she has a 98 4-cylinder ATX, both the same color as yours, both with beige leather interiors. We just got her some alloys for it, she has 14's with the hubcaps on it now. For some reason, I thought you had the regular alloys. Anyways, I wanted to commend you on how you always post pics of your work and how you did it. I find it most helpful and interesting to read! I like the way you painted your calipers too! I think I am going to do mine, but most likely just plain black for me.

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Nice write-up MazRedMan!

I've done the job before and only thing I would add is that it is wise to clean the rotors with brake parts cleaner after install to remove any grease from it...

Only thing I did differently is pushing back the piston: I did this after pad removal: I hold an old pad against the piston, and then used a clamp to push the piston back in. Reason is that my c-clamp is too small to fit over the caliper. But the way you did it is easier I think...

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Great write-up!

I noticed that you are missing the anti-rattle clips, those wire clips that go above and below each caliper on both sides. I bought them from Mazda as well as the guide plates that you reference as anti-rattle clips by mistake. The anti-rattle clips are shown in Haynes. And what about using Hi-temp

grease on the contact points and caliper pins? Last, I always start a brake job by "washing" everything down with Brake Cleaner spray first. That dust is caustic!

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Thanks guys!

(I'm having computer problems and I am not always able to reply when I want to, sorry- long story.)

This was my first brake job attempt at my 626.( A week earlier I did my 86 528e BMW and next week I will do my wife's 05' Vibe.)

I knew I would not be able to include all the other detailed aspects to this process in the initial presentation so that is why I said that this would be a supplement to the manual. I also expected others to add 'tips' to this post (especially those who have done this often). I think this covers the basic process and others will find slight changes in their experiences (and car).

BTW- MrPlatinum79, I got my alloys right after my re-built tranny because the trans shop said that I had bentmy axle (extra $$) and my existing 'steelies'. I still have my original rims (not bent) and covers.The tire place gave me a deal on these alloys (I think $250), they were just returned by someone eariler that day. :rolleyes:

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Hi to all, I Finally found a very useful guide to replace front brakes.

I was looking for this about 4 hrs.

Again Tnx man I will post my results latelly. :biggrin:

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Sorry, not from me.

Years ago, I helped my dad with his drum brakes.......wasn't a pleasant experience. I might try the 'drums' the next time I need to but then again.....???? Good luck!!

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I hate to bump this thread, but have any of you guys come across problems installing the new pads. My dad and I installed them on my car today (after 2 trips to the store to discover the old pads on the car from it's purchase were installed backwards) but we couldn't put the anti-rattle clips on with the new pad. Has anyone else had this problem? I can hear them rattle slightly, I just don't want the pad to warp the rotor or wear out quickly.

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I tried changing the pads and rotor on my 98 626. On the right side I was able to open the caliber but unable to unscrew the 17mm bolt hold the caliper, it seems to be stuck . Does anyone know how to deal with a stubborn bold ?

On the left side the 7mm hex socket is has no grip,it just slips.

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I'm not sure what you have tried, but if you have a normal wrench such as below, you can put the 12 point on the bolt. You then take another wrench and put the 12 point through the other open end, locking it in. That gives you more leverage and helps with stubborn bolts. If that doesn't do it, you can try a breaker bar or an impact gun. Also, make sure you are turning it the correct way since it is on the backside.

img-347178-1-Great-Neck-C17MC-rw-143872-210679.jpg

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I had my front brakes and rotors replaced recently but i keep getting a screeching sound as if they where still old and dull.... need help.. dont know if there is something specific that needed to be done or what. it is mostly coming from the front right side.

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I had my front brakes and rotors replaced recently but i keep getting a screeching sound as if they where still old and dull.... need help.. dont know if there is something specific that needed to be done or what. it is mostly coming from the front right side.

I believe it's the thin stainless steel clips that's on the caliper bracket where your pads sit on. I bet those steel clips are touching the sides of your rotor thus creating metal to metal contact noise. You may need to bend them gently away from the rotor as possible without trying to break it, both the top and bottom clips. Happens to me all the time when I service my front brakes and had to take the wheels off again to fix it.

The steel clip I'm referring to:

img-243173-2-Pic007.jpg

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For replacing stuck/rusted old rotors - don't just wail on them with a hammer once you get the caliper bracket off. There's a screw hole in the face where you can thread a bolt thru the rotor, against the hub behind it, to create enough pressure to *pop* the rotor off the hub.

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