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azsoft

Wheel Bearing

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After almost an year with a front suspension noise (626 GLX 2.0 1998 Mazda-Japan). I've got the car lifted and after turning the Wheel, it was there, a worn out wheel bearing.

The question is ??? How can the mecanic, without disassemble anything, ask me to buy wheel bearing and WHEEL HUB...

It is not reasonable, that first he disassemble everything inspect and than replace what is worn out or damage?

It is really mandatory to replace the Wheel Hub because of a damage/worn out wheel bearing ????.

I read every details in the Mazda 626 Workshop Manual and was not clear enough. Says that is Replaceable but doesn't specified that must be changed both at the same time...

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As far as I know, the front bearing can be separately replaced, with keeping the same hub. Although I don't know how easy it is to perform with the usual tools...as mazda specifies the use of some special tools for this job...

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I just had my front passenger wheel bearing replaced, and to my knowledge they didn't replace the hub... but just the wheel bearing. Just out of curosity how much do they want for the bearing and hub? Mine was close to 300 bucks..

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Great, now i'm confident. i'll replace the Wheel hub only if it is really damage..

Wheel Bearing KOYO (OEM they said). Cost me US$ 95.50.

I thought would be something like US$ 40.00

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Great, now i'm confident. i'll replace the Wheel hub only if it is really damage..

Wheel Bearing KOYO (OEM they said). Cost me US$ 95.50.

I thought would be something like US$ 40.00

Well it would be cheaper if you bought the part and did it yerself' or bought the part and had them put it in.

The OE bearing could be had online for 57.00 minus shipping.

Most of the time the hub is never replace unless there is a reson for changing it. Mabe they are just lazy and don't want to press it off, and they make more money on the parts plus hit you additional charges :P . Changing the bearing usally reqires taking out the hub off and pressing the bearing off(thats the easies way i've done it and seen it done) but may have special tools to remove it wile still in the car. Probly they want to skip a step and get your car off the lift quicker, by having you pay for the hub and bearing, and just puting the new setup on.

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Just out of curosity how much do they want for the bearing and hub? Mine was close to 300 bucks..

Sorry Gumby06, I misunderstand you, The Wheel Bearing Plus Wheel Hub would cost me US$ 280.00..

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I used a press kit (which requires an impact wrench, or a lot of torque from a socket wrench) to remove and install the wheel bearings on my P5 (same knuckles as the 626) without removing them from the car.

The press kit was about $100 at HF. I bought Centric bearings at $20 each, so far no issues. The hub doesn't have to be replaced, BUT, it's difficult to remove the inner race from it. You either need a 3 jaw puller with fine fingers (this is the special tool the FSM describes), or do what I did and use a rotary cutting tool to slice the race on both sides, and use a chisel and hammer to split it in half if the cuts alone don't allow it to slide off. You have to be careful not to cut the hub when doing this.

The press kit was used to both remove and re-install the bearing. You also need the right pliers to safely remove and re-install the giant circlip retaining the wheel bearing, as well as a 1-1/4" socket to deal with the axle nut.

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I replaced my front bearings abut a year ago. The bearings were actually OK, I had to replace the hubs because I damaged them when I removed the axles due to torn CV boots. I hammered on the sides of the hub trying to 'shock' the stuck axles, which dented the edges and ruined the brake disc alignment (live and learn!). I ordered new hubs and bearings then removed both knuckle assemblies from the car. I took the whole mess to the auto hobby shop at the base where I work and used their 10 ton press to put it all together. As already mentioned, the bearing is pressed into the knuckle and secured with a big snap ring, then the hub is pressed in. The snap ring is under the hub, so the hub has to be hammered out first. In the process the bearing came apart with the inner race still pressed firmly to the hub. This is hard to remove which is probably why your shop wants to use new hubs. The rest of the ruined old bearing got pounded out, yes we used a BFH as opposed to the press, but we needed the dies to have something to pound on. The press was used to ease the new bearing into the knuckle, the the snap ring went on. The hub got pressed into the inner race next, be very careful to support everything properly. When pressing the hub in, it's essential to support the inner race from the other side or you'll wreck your new bearing. The last step is to tap in a new seal. Yep, there is a seal to close the gap between the knuckle and the outer CV. The old outer race was the perfect size to act as a die to drive on the new seal. My advice is to (if you haven't already finished the job) is to get the new parts, pull the knuckles off and take everything to a shop that will do the work for you. A Pep Boys or NAPA should do the trick, just call around.

Good luck!

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can anyone tell me where to buy the hub and bearing already assembled? autozone and advanced auto dont have it, only the bearings themselves for the front

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Probably a junkyard. If you want a new bearing included then that's something you either have to do yourself or have someone press it in for you.

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Buying it preassembled would make no sense in this case. You have to remove the hub to get at the snap ring, and you also can't press the new bearing in with the hub in the way (since you have to press it using the outer race). If they came pre-assembled, you'd be screwed. If you need a new hub, buy it separately.

I've done this job on 3 wheels on the P5, which uses pretty much the same parts as the 626 for the suspension and hub assemblies.

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ok thanks. I ask because replacing the hub with bearing is a job I can do myself but replacing the bearing involves me bring the part to a mechanic with a press to do

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MX-6 uses the same exact axles and hubs as the 626 (of the same year). Might make your search a little easier.

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Perhaps you are confusing the hub with the knuckle. The hub is the metal disc/tube with the wheel studs in it, and is pressed into the inner race of the wheel bearing. The knuckle is the metal contraption that bolts to the strut, control arm, and tie rod, and has the hub/bearing assembly pressed into it.

You don't need a shop press if you buy the aforementioned wheel bearing kit; you will need a long handled ratchet, or an impact wrench to turn the compression bolt/nut.

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After almost an year with a front suspension noise (626 GLX 2.0 1998 Mazda-Japan). I've got the car lifted and after turning the Wheel, it was there, a worn out wheel bearing.

The question is ??? How can the mecanic, without disassemble anything, ask me to buy wheel bearing and WHEEL HUB...

It is not reasonable, that first he disassemble everything inspect and than replace what is worn out or damage?

It is really mandatory to replace the Wheel Hub because of a damage/worn out wheel bearing ????.

Not sure about Mazda, but assuming the same as Hyundai. If the wheel bearing is caught in time then no, you usually just require access to a bearing press. If you ignore the grinding noise for too long or too far then you're up for a new/used hub as well.

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Thanks for the write up. Do you think that a 6 ton shop press would do the trick, or should I get a 12 ton?

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Hmm, I did one bearing that needed the maximum of mine, everything was flexing under the strain. That was due to the knuckle being bent.

Not sure if you would get away with a 6 ton. You *might* I think the WSM suggests at least 10.

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is the rear bearing different from the front one? looking to replace the right side bearings,

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Yes, the rear bearings are different - theyre smaller.

Note that my write up is for a GD, the bearings are different in other models.

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IIRC, the rear bearing come as an assembly with the hub and bolts to the knuckle. Probably an easy fix if the hub isn't corroded into the knuckle.

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