Denniswpb

Transmission Cable Quick Fix

15 posts in this topic

I have a 2000 Mazda 626 that the transmission cable keeps popping off the shift lever on the side of the transmission. This is caused by the plastic gromet at the end of the cable being worn and it slips off the shift lever. Mazda wants about $130.00 for a whole new cable.

An easy fix is to just remove the 10mm bolt that holds the shift lever on the transmission. The shift lever will then easily come off. Drill a small hole at the end of the shaft where a cotter pin can then be installed. The shaft is made of soft metal and is easily drilled. Put the lever back on the transmission, reinstall the 10mm bolt and slip the end of the cable back over the shaft. Next install a cotter pin through the hole you just drilled. This whole fix take about 15 minutes to do.

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Whoa, easy there. I'll move it to the right section. Please don't "scold" new members, that's the moderating team's job ;)

especially with a very useful modification... or perhaps a hack... either way, excellent and great first post :biggrin:

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I have the same problem, instead of buying the new transmission cable, I just replaced the gromet that I bought from the dealer $13.00. Problem solved.

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are there any pictures along with this cuz last night somethhing happened with my car and it wont shift out of park...the gear shift in the car moves from park all the way to D1 but it wont start.

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This is an awesome mod. I have the same problem and Mazda says you must replace the whole cable. Well, that means pulling the dash! We are talking twelve hours of work at least! This mod can be done in less than 20 mins. Thanks again!

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My daughter's 2004 Mazda 626, 2.0L, auto shift cable grommet slipped off the shift lever arm. Another cheap quick fix for this problem is to get an 8mm flat washer and 5/16" e-clip. After removing the air cleaner housing, remove the two bolts holding the range sensor arm (or if you're fingers are nimble, remove the lock tab and remove the cable from the range sensor arm). Next remove the shift level arm, slip the shift cable back on to the shift lever, install the washer, then e-clip. Reinstall the shift level arm, range sensor arm, and air cleaner housing.

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i know this thread is pretty old, but i just ran into this problem and found another solution that was pretty easy and cheaper than the previous mentioned.

not sure if it is the same on other 626s, but on my 96 2.0 lx the shift lever has a ridge on the end that i'm guessing is what held on the original fastener (grommet?). i was unaware of what the correct fastener was at the time, so i tried a bunch of stuff to try and just get me running temporarily, needless to say nothing really would stay on there or by the time you got your hand down there, you couldn't really do anything.

i had picked up a chilton's manual for the car about a week before and from the horrible exploded diagram of the transaxle i was able to see they indicated a hitch pin was used to hold it on. so i picked a $2 variety box of hitch pins at autozone and the biggest one (i forget what the exact size was) and it popped right on and has been working fine since.

hope this helps anyone who runs into this problem.

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i know this thread is pretty old, but i just ran into this problem and found another solution that was pretty easy and cheaper than the previous mentioned.

not sure if it is the same on other 626s, but on my 96 2.0 lx the shift lever has a ridge on the end that i'm guessing is what held on the original fastener (grommet?). i was unaware of what the correct fastener was at the time, so i tried a bunch of stuff to try and just get me running temporarily, needless to say nothing really would stay on there or by the time you got your hand down there, you couldn't really do anything.

i had picked up a chilton's manual for the car about a week before and from the horrible exploded diagram of the transaxle i was able to see they indicated a hitch pin was used to hold it on. so i picked a $2 variety box of hitch pins at autozone and the biggest one (i forget what the exact size was) and it popped right on and has been working fine since.

hope this helps anyone who runs into this problem.

This guy had the correct & easiest solution -- Only problem, is if you have bigger-than-average arms, they barely fit.

i used a needle nose.

This is a very simple & bitchy problem lol

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i know this thread is pretty old, but i just ran into this problem and found another solution that was pretty easy and cheaper than the previous mentioned.

not sure if it is the same on other 626s, but on my 96 2.0 lx the shift lever has a ridge on the end that i'm guessing is what held on the original fastener (grommet?). i was unaware of what the correct fastener was at the time, so i tried a bunch of stuff to try and just get me running temporarily, needless to say nothing really would stay on there or by the time you got your hand down there, you couldn't really do anything.

i had picked up a chilton's manual for the car about a week before and from the horrible exploded diagram of the transaxle i was able to see they indicated a hitch pin was used to hold it on. so i picked a $2 variety box of hitch pins at autozone and the biggest one (i forget what the exact size was) and it popped right on and has been working fine since.

hope this helps anyone who runs into this problem.

I discovered that my shifter linkage was missing the grommet (or whatever was used) to hold it on when I was changing a motor mount a couple of weeks ago. Something I did must have "disturbed" it because it has now popped off twice in that two weeks, despite never having come off before, and who knows how long the thing was loose?

I tried the hitch pin method, but it keeps slipping off the end of the shaft! I wonder if maybe the shaft is shorter on mine, there doesn't seem to be enough space between the bump on the shaft and the cable for a hitch pin to seat down behind the notch. Either that, or the hitch pin I got at autozone is much thicker than what this previous poster was able to find.

Also, I'm having to work with the shift lever on the car. The 10mm bolt holding it in place won't break loose. I'm afraid to use a breaker bar on it because I don't want to damage anything internal to the transmission, and it puts force on the shift lever when you try to turn the bolt.

There is a shift linkage repair kit that can be ordered here: http://goo.gl/UYXZ6 but it requires getting the shift lever off of the trans, as well as grinding and drilling out the old pin. I could do something similar with a bolt and some washers.. IF I could get the damn lever off without breaking something.

Words cannot express how FURIOUS I am at Mazda for not using something more durable to hold the shift lever in place.

EDIT: working on a fix that I'll document here if it works. Temporarily, I put a zip tie around the cable to persuade it to stay on, but that's not a permanent fix.

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Found an easier fix, appears to be working as well. Does not require removal of the shift lever from the vehicle. Removing the lever didn't work for me, as the 10mm bolt would not turn, even when sprayed with pb blaster, etc... it was stuck solid. I was afraid to crank too hard on it, though, as it was putting pressure on transmission internals when you try to turn the bolt and I didn't want to damage anything.

So, to fix it ON vehicle I temporarily used a ZIP TIE to strap the cable in place, kindof a "suggestion" to stay on the pin. However, the pressure on the cable caused the shifter alignment to be slightly off so it wouldn't always go directly into gear without a little extra pressure on the shifter.

Found a hopefully PERMANENT fix here: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_fix_a_Shifter_Cable_Repair_Pin_for_2001_Mazda_626

Basically all you need is a "5/16" non-threaded axle cap nut". The site listed a part# for Lowes, but they didn't carry it locally. I went to my local ACE HARDWARE (which rescues me constantly) and they had a huge selection.

It simply popped right on. No effort necessary. I squeezed it with pliers just to make sure, but it seems to be secure. I pulled on the cable and it didn't pop off. Looks like a fix.

post-23461-0-48084800-1372525403_thumb.j

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Awesome info! I would very much like to see you write an in-depth tutorial on this subject because you can bet your first born that it's going to be asked again in the future. This is a known issue on the 98-02 FS. Surprised you had the same issue on your 97. Perhaps they switched to that style cap in 96 and not in 98 like I'd thought? 93-95 use a cotter pin.

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Very neat Lotherius. Thanks!

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I used the drill hole/cotter-key fix, Thanks Denniswpb!  I used a cotter key like the one pictured below.

 

For me it was too hard to push the cotter key into the hole with shift lever attached to the transmission.  So I installed the cable and cotter key while the shift lever was off/removed.  Then it was very difficult to re-attach the shift lever (not much room to work with the shift cable in the way).

 

But I managed to get the 10mm bolt started and then kept wiggling the shift lever and tightening the 10mm bolt until the shift lever snapped into place.   Finally tightened up the 10mm bolt and it works good.

 

DIN11024_spring_cotter_pin_snap_pin.jpg

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Lotherius,I cannot thank you enough.Firestone wanted to charge me more than a grand for a new cable,money I didn't have.I have the 02 and the 5/16 didn't work,but the 3/8 did.Kudos to you!

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