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hlmm1705

Change Transmission Oil?

16 posts in this topic

What are your early symptoms?

TomK

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Changing it, the tranny fluid will not harm it anymore than it is. Just do the 2 bucket method.

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Changing it, the tranny fluid will not harm it anymore than it is. Just do the 2 bucket method.

No, but it could make the problems much more prevalent... That is how I discovered my tranny was fubar within a month of buying :/ That floating friction material could be whats keeping everything sticking together :(

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Ok, the tranny early symptoms are: when cold has loud thump when drive is engage, then a rattling noise in 1st gear when starts in a slope and almost any force, and engaging 2nd gear also with a rattling noise (only in slopes).

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That rattle you hear, its only when going up a hill?? If its a lite metallic sound it may be a spark knock issue. If its more of a chatter that you kinda feel thru the steering wheel/seat of your pants it would indicate a bad torque converter.

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I feel it mostly in the gas pedal, but th noise is a loud grinding noise, yes going uphill only.

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I had my transmission rebuilt last year and so far all is well. A Strauss mechanic told me he would not do a Trans Oil flush/change on any mazda because of known transmission problems. But, since I had the tranny rebuilt and new trans oil was used, would it really be a problem to do a complete Trans flush/oil change?

Also, about the "Two bucket" method mentioned, what is this exactly? I know that it is impossible to drain and change all of the 8.8L of trans fluid from a 96 Mazda 626 2.0 Atx. The filter is buried deep inside the transmission and cannot be DIY'd at home.(a lot of work!).

I'm planning on adding a Magnafine trans line filter and a Hayden #676 cooler and would like to change the trans fluid first. The Strauss mechanic said that changing the trans fluid may cause the transmission to start slipping for reasons mentioned above about the metal particles holding everything together. What do you guys here think?

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So I should do the oil change? Maybe I can do it this weekend, I convince my brother to help me with the 2 buckets method, but I just don

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Change it, and as far as 2 bucket method.. Just get 2 buckets, one is for fresh fluid and the return line(suction) goes into that..the other is for the old fluid and the other line goes into that..have a couple gallons of fresh fluid, start the car and the old fluid pumps out as the new fluid gets sucked in..if the pump is weak you may have to resort to a big funnel held higher than the tranny to get the new fluid into the tranny.

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vlad_vm, you recommend to do the oil change with the symptoms I describe in this thread? or I just wait to do the tranny rebuilt?

Thanks

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Well, if the trans fluid is already extensively burnt, then more than likely you already have some heat damage to the ATX. Are you getting any slippage in and out of gear? That's usually the final symptom that your trans is toast. If it's not slipping yet, you may be able to change out the fluid to prevent further damage - or, you may start to notice some slippage since all the crap in the old fluid was what was providing the friction to actually change gears. Really, it's a pretty cheap fix to try for now, but in the end, it all seems to lead to the inevitable ATX replacement.

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No slippage yet, but about 3 times last month when going 2nd to 3rd gear theres a slight accelaration (not feels like slipping) for about 1-2 seconds and then comes to normal, when I bought these car in dealer, they overfill the transmission, and while a roadtrip back to home the tranny overheated, (I had no experience in ATX only in manual so I didn

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my tranny damage they said in part was cause of bad mounts shaking everything a little too much

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