Trebuchet03

Changing Your Timing Belt And Water Pump

60 posts in this topic

Welcome my fellow DIYer. First, I commend you for taking on this task, I will rank this as one of the most difficult things in the realm of the shade tree DIYer. The hardest thing to deal with is tight spaces, other than that the task is straitfoward for the most part ;)

Step 1 Collect Needed Parts and special tools (list will be adjusted as the guide is written)

  • New Timing Belt
  • New (or reman) Water Pump
  • Tensioner Spring
  • Tensioner Pulley (if higher mileage)*
  • Idler Pulley (If VERY high mileage) *
  • VC Gasket*
  • Gasket Scrapper
  • Torque Wrench **
  • Jack, Stand, Wood Blocks
  • Black RTV sealant (I do not recommend "Ultra Black")
  • Metric Allen/hex Key set (Or 1/4" - may require sanding to fit)
  • Plastic Baggies and Sharpie
  • Piece of Cardboard
  • Feeler Gauge Set ***

*If you have the ability, wait and see if the old one is still good - I changed at 74K miles. My tensioner had play in the bearing but my idler was in great shape.

** Highly recommended.

*** Perfect time to check your valve clearance for you guys with solid lifters (98+)

Step 2 Prep work

Make sure you have a lot of time (like a weekend). If you are changing the water pump, flush the system with water - do't forget the heater core. You want only water in the cooling system because when you remove the water pump, you probably will have a mini flood eject from the block. DO NOT change the oil (yet) - if any debris falls into the system, you want to catch it early (and not 3K miles later). Allow the engine to completely cool down.

Use the plastic baggies and sharpie to mark EVERY fitting you remove. This will save you a great deal of time.

Step 3 Getting Started

Raise and support the vehicle on jack stands. I supported my car on the frame of the car just behind where the front unibody attaches to the main beams of the car (sorry, not sure on the technical wording of that). You'll see it, just two bars about the same width as your jack stand cups ;) That is not oil from my car :biggrin:

img-192862-1-Stand.jpg

Remove the Right wheel. Remove the splash guard (note the rust from using 100% water for about 600 miles). Tip Put the Lug back on the wheel to protect the threading and to keep track of them.

img-192862-2-spashguard.jpg

Step 4 Removing the belts

Sorry I neglected to take pictures of this - but I can offer help if you don't know how. First the PS/ac belt. Remove the PS belt guard with a philips screw driver head, there are two bolt/screws.

If you look just in front / below the PS pump, you will see a long threaded bolt. That is the bolt that apples tension to the PS pulley. Just below the PS pump is another bolt like thing. That locks the PS pump to the tensioner track. First you need to loosen that bolt with a 14mm wrench. Once it is a little loose, look at where the PS bracket attaches to the head. There is another 14mm bolt that goes through the head and attaches to the PS pump support bracket. Loosen that a few turns. Now, with a 14mm wrench, begin the slow process of loosening the pump by turning that bolt. Once enough tension has been relieved remove the belt.

Now, without disconnecting hoses, remove the PS pump. Again I am sorry, I forgot to take pictures of this step. Don't forget to remove the two bolts that secure the hose to the VC.

Step 5WP Pulley and Belt

DO NOT DO WHAT I DID. I removed the belt before dealing with the pulley. It is near impossible to take the pulley off without the belt holding it in place. Using a 10mm wrench, loosen the 4 WP pulley bolts. You may have to turn the crank by hand in order to access all of the bolts.

I went a little out of this order to make pictures easier ;) That bolt hole in the top right of the picture is where the PS pump pivot bolt goes :biggrin:

img-192862-3-WPpulley.jpg

Once the pulley bolts are loose, we now can remove the belt. It took me a little bit to find the alternator pivot bolt because its hidden for some odd reason. Again, I did not take pictures for this step (related to the last step). But behind that arrow a little bit, you'll find a bolt on a bracket. Use some common sense to make sure you found the right bolt. Its gonna be connected to the alternator somehow. Loosen that bolt, then loosen the tensioner bolt on the alternator (again, 14mm)

img-192862-4-alternatorpivot.jpg

img-192862-5-alternatortensioner.jpg

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Now for the fun stuff :biggrin:

Step 6 Removing the VC

Look at the bolts on the VC. Notice how they all have the number '6' or '9' on them (can't tell which). Well, thank you mazda for number coordinating your fasteners. If I recall, '6' (or '9') means 10mm wrench ;) So take your 10mm wrench and remove the bolts. Press each one into a piece of cardboard. I drew a mini picture of the top of the engine so I would not forget where to put the bolts. Some are different lengths - mark those with an 'L' just to make sure you have everything right.

img-192863-1-VCbolts.jpg

Tap on the VC with a rubber mallet a few times to release the bond of the gasket. Remove the breather hose and PCV. Make sure the PS hose is out of the way (you did remove the PS pump right?). Then pull the cover straight up (so you avoid hitting the cams/sprockets). I use 100% synthetic oil. The inside of the VC was a beautiful amber - only slightly darker than the oil

img-192863-2-VCremoved.jpg

This car uses regular dino oil :wub:

Step 6b Checking valve clearance

If you have a 98+, this is perfect opportunity to check your valve clearance. Just use a feeler gauge and check the clearance for each number. Remember, start with slightly larger, then use a smaller feeler until it just fits. Check your manual for clearance numbers. I have a '97 which uses hydraulic adjustment - so this step does not apply to me.

Step 7 Remove the Top right Motor Mount

Take a block of wood and put it on top of your jack. Lift the engine (place the jack on the oil pan) a tiny bit (as soon as you start seeing the engine going up). Using a deep well socket, unbolt the two block-mount bolts. One of the bolts has a ground, make sure to keep the washers and place the ground wire off to the side. If a stud comes up too, don't worry - just place it in the baggie. Next, remove the bolt that goes right through the whole mount/support bracket. Using a long extension is very usefull if you go UNDER the power steering hose. Remove the bolt and take the mount out by lifting up - be carefull around the a/c lines if you have them

Step 8 Removing the T-belt covers AND crank pulley (aka damper).

I am pretty sure all of the bolts use a 10mm wrench. Start with the top cover. Remove all bolts pull the cover away from the head (there are metal guides to keep it aligned) and lif the cover straight out.

Remove the crank pulley bolt. Place your wrench on the bolt and wedge it into the ground, if its too high off the ground, use a length of pipe as a cheater bar. Now, blip the starter for a second. This will break the bolt free and make your job 2000% easier ;) Once the bolt is off, remove the pulley. Be patient, its on a keyway and is a very low tolerance item (tight fit). Wiggling back and forth a lot will help it come free. DO NOT use a lubricant as you may get it in the T-belt area place :biggrin: Careful, that pulley is heavy for its size.

Now, we can remove the lower T-belt cover. Again remove all bolts. Tip For this bolt, use a deep well socket ;) It makes the job easier. Remove the cover though the bottom.

img-192863-3-lowerTbeltcover.jpg

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Now we are all ready to go about our business of taking the pump and/or T-belt off.

Step 9 WP Removal

First you need to remove the idler pulley as it is attached to the water pump. You will also need to remove the PS tension guide bracket as it is also bolted on to the water pump.

Clear away everything from under your car - it will get wet otherwise. Tip Learn from my mistake, do this from above - unless you need a shower.

5 Bolts secure the water pump to the block. Remove each one and place them in a bag. The pump will probably be seized on the block... Tap on the pump and it should break free no problem. Remove the pump. The factory gasket is made out of metal, so it should come off easily. Allow the surface to dry. Wipe the mating surface clean and apply some gasket dressing to the surface of the new gasket. Carefully bolt on the new pump. Put two bolts in the pump and navigate the pump onto the block (the two bolts keep the gasket aligned). Tighten the bolts using the star method (as if you were tightening your wheels) - check the manual for torque specs.

img-192863-4-WPremoved.jpg

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This is the old and new pump comparison. There was quite a bit of play and a lot of resistance.

img-192866-1-oldandnew.jpg

I took this change to clean up the rust coating. I used a nylon brush and water. I also flowed water through the top radiator hose to backflush the head and wash away the scrubbed rust powder. I also cleaned the control arm and splash guard - anything that had rust on it.

Most of the way done

img-192866-2-cleaner.jpg

Tip Go VERY slowly when first threading the water pump. cross thread and screw up one of those bolts will be a delay of a few days. A new bolt is $4.13 from the dealer and it took 3 days for it to arrive.

Step 10 Removing the T-belt

Hand turn the crank until the I and E align and the crank pip/keyway aligns with the notch on the block. When I say hand crank, I mean put the crank pulley bolt in and turn with a wrench. At this point, you'll probably want to remove the spark plugs so you don't have to deal with cyl compression forces. Remember, you will have the belt on at this point. If you are going to be using the same belt, mark the direciton of the belt with a paint pen or sharpie (never reverse the direction once installed).

img-192866-3-cranksprocket.jpg

This is not too bad, but it is under a lot of tension. First find the correct hex key. If you are changing the tensioner pulley, find something that fits it. These instructions are not the same as the manual, but it works well. First loosen the tensioner pulley bolt. Using your hex key, turn the tensioner to the right until the spring has the least amount of tension on it... Then, reach down and pop the spring off the hook pin. You should have this (plus the belt):

img-192866-4-tensioner.jpg

Step 11 OK, now the hard part. Putting the belt back on

I recommend finding a friend. Because you are a DIYer, you won't have a camshaft holding tool the cams are no doubt going to pop out of alignment because of valve spring pressure. What complicates things further is that the intake cam wants to spin clockwise (when facing them head on) while the exhaust cam will pop in the counter-clockwise direction. My hands were full on this one because I did not have a friend available - this is a tough one.

With the tension off the belt somewhat, remove it from the cam sprockets. Some force may be required if its on there tight.

This is what should have been in the manual where it says "Install Timing Belt"

Part A Replace the tensioner, spring and idler as necessary

You really must replace the spring, other than that, make sure these two parts are torque'd down.

Part B Get the belt ready

Get the belt ready for putting it on the sprockets. Just weave it around the motor mount post and just let it sit for a few minutes while you do other things

Part C A few adjustments

Place your hex hey in the tensioner. Adjust the intake cam so the I pip mark is at 90 degrees as shown (this is cyl 1 TDC). Carefully remove your wrench so that it does not pop back out of alignment. Be careful at this point, bumpint the car can pop that cam. Now, 'thread' the belt on the crank sprocket. Pull straight up to keep the treads in the sprocket.

Part D The Intake Cam Sprocket

Guide the belt onto the tensioner. Turn that hex key counter clockwise to give yourself more room to move the belt (hold in position). Now, pulling hard on the left side of the belt (and some tension on the right side to keep the belt from turning the crank), 'thread' the belt on to the intake cam sprocket. Only do it about halfway on to make the exhaust side easier. Hold the right side tight, because if you pull on the left side while the treads are in the sprocket, it will pop out of alignment. The idea is to have enough force on the right side of the belt to keep the intake sprocket aligned by not letting the crankshaft sprocket turn :ohmy:

Part E The Exhaust side

You can now let go of the tensioner hex key you had there, just leave it alone for now so you are not distracted. Take your wrench and turn the exhaust cam clockwise until the 'E' pip mark aligns with the intake 'I' pip mark. The mark on the exhaust sprocket will be at 270 degrees (this is taking straight up to be 0 and turning clockwise). Now, get a few of the belt treads on the sprocket and push down hard so it does not slip. Hold tight.

Part F Popping the belt on

We are gonna do something a bit weird. We are going to use the intake sprocket as a guide to 'thread' the exhaust side on. Place your wrench on the exhaust sprocket bolt and turn it as hard as you can in the clockwise direction. Turn it until the belt 'hops' onto the sprocket. This is why we only did 1/2 of the belt on the intake side :biggrin: Once the belt is fully threaded (but not on all the way just yet), use your hands to push the belt onto the idler pulley. Take a quick rest if your arms are tired :P

Part G Aligning the Belt

The belt will slide as it is. Remember that the sprocket before the current one is the guide. So, using a soft mallet, tap the belt a few mm at a time on the intake side - then hand crank the belt. You can do the same thing on the tensioner pulley location, idler pulley location and crank location. Just don't go too far at once to avoid stressing out the belt. Once it is on nicely, hand crank until you see how everything aligns. If the crank notches align when the intake/exhaust pips align, you did an excellent job. Hand crank at least 4 time just to be sure.

I used my jack handle to tap everything in.

img-192866-5-tbelttap.jpg

If you have an assistant, use their steady hand when you feel you need a third, fourth or fifth hand :biggrin: This is the method I came up with. I've never done a timing belt before so I had no clue. And at the time the site was down for us regular members :/ Once I did this, it took me one shot to get it aligned right, but the cams do like to pop a lot - so that was a delay.

If you want to make your own cam holding tool, you can. Just use two wrenches that fit the sprocket bolts. Drill a hole in the middle and put a bolt and nut through it. Put the wrenches on the cam bolts, then tighten the bolt in the wrenches really really tight... voila.

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Now put everything back together in reverse order :P Don't forget any wire guides (I forget the crank position sensor).

Just a few points to remember

When putting the PS pump back on. Install the bracket (that screws into the WP). But leave the bolts really loose. Then put the pump into place. Looking at it head on (standing on the right side) the order of metal parts at the bottom should be:

1. Guide Bracket

2. PS Pump Mount

It took me awhile to figure that out when the pump would not align to the mount bracket.

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Don't overtighten the belts. I did and thought I screwed up somewhere. Loosened it up and everything was cool.

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When tightening the WP pulley, do so in a criss cross method to make sure it is on even and won't rub the T-belt covers.

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The lower T-belt cover will be a bitch to get back in place. This is normal, don't worry.

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When putting the MM back on, lift the engine until the mount studs are vertical, then just a tad bit more. This will make installation easy.

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DO NOT RUSH- More mistakes will come of this.

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Make sure to put RTV sealant where the camshaft arches begin/end. Give it 24 hours to cure. Make sure the mating surface on the VC is clean and free of any oils and other debris. After a week of driving, change the oil or at least the filter to make sure no dirt or anything from having the VC open is floating around.

--

I may have forgotten something, but I will go back and correctit eventually - in the meantime, just post anything you see that I overlooked.

===========================

So, after all of that, she started up no problem. For about a 1/2 second she was a little confused because the crank position sensor was not where she remembered it was (this according to Mazda). I turned the key and it blipped the starter, paused for a second, the turned over and started as if nothing happened B)

DONE

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If you just want to change the pump and don't want to deal with the belt :biggrin:

As the idler pulley is attached to the pump, you'll have to hold back the T-belt with a bit of wire. Once the belt is taken care of, just remove the water pump as instructed above. The spacing is more tricky, but it should not be as involved as doing the T-belt. Thanks Sailor626 for getting the picture

img-192871-1-Wpomp2.jpg

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Excellent tech how-to! I just had this work done on my 96 626 LX ATX 4 Cyl. I didn't have the time or tools. Maybe next time or another car. I was looking at the special service tools for changing timing belts on the Gates web site;- http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure...ocation_id=3487

I had the shop use a Gates Timing Belt kit. What happened was, I started hearing a funning ticking/tapping noise coming from the engine and some noise from the TB area. It turns out it was a broken tensioner spring! I was lucky I didn't suffer any valve damage on this interference engine.

Crazy thing is, I just had the TB done about 40,000 Miles ago ! I pay closer attention to the quality of the parts that go into my cars now more than ever. I buy parts that my mechanic puts in sometimes or I do the work myself. I'm sure the following tools would have made the job easier:

Gates Tools:

Multi-Lock Tool (left) eliminates the risk of expensive damage from interference piston-to-valve or valve-to-valve contact by "locking" twin camshafts in place during timing belt replacement or engine overhaul. (Part No. 91009)

Hydraulic Tensioner Pin Set is used to compress timing belt tensioners during service. A Gates exclusive, the pin set is made of hardened spring steel to hold the strongest tensioners. Can also be used to hold certain serpentine belt tensioners in place during service. (Part No. 91010)

Cam Gear Sprocket Tool facilitates engine-timing procedures that require the camshaft to be held in position while the gear or belt is removed from the shaft to re-align the cam timing position properly. (Part No. 91008)

Timing Belt Tension Tester provides an accurate method of testing timing belt tension on a variety of automotive applications. (Part No. 91000)

Timing Belt Replacement Manual contains factory recommended procedures, technical illustrations, average labor times, and belt replacement intervals for domestic and import vehicle applications from 1970 to 2001. 600-pages. (Part No. 91471)

Gates Master Timing Kit includes one Gates Timing Belt Tension Tester, one Cam Gear Sprocket Tool and two Gates Multi-Lock Tools. (Part No. 91007)

Anyway, thanks again for the tech article, great job!

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^^ its good information... but a lot of those tools are a bit silly for this application....

Multilock might be nice - depending on cost - but not needed - its a non interference engine :P

Ten. Pin set - no clue how this would apply :P Just put a hex head into the tensioner pully to release tension

Sprocket tool - not needed, timing is set with the disty and timing light once the belt is on - the cams are simply aligned when the belt is put on

Tension Tester - Tension is not adjustable - it is a spring on an offset pulley

Manual - might be nice for the DIY'er - but Chilton's and the other repair manual cover it for the most part

Master Timing Kit - See above :P

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What I found to be nice is that there were no special tools required :P But something to hold the two cam gears in place would have sped up the process by about 30-45 mins or so :P But remember, a tool like that can be made quite easily -- take two sacrificial wrenches (both that fit the cam sprocket gears) - drill a hole through both so that they can slip on the bolts. Slide a bolt through the new holes you made - tighten it with a nut to hold the cams still -- OR if you want to be really fancy - you could try tapping the wrenches :biggrin:

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So, if I have the type of engine whereby if the TB goes, and the valves start crashing, its a NON-Interference engine, free-running, yes? So why did my valves crash three years ago when I lost my TB on the NJ Tpk.? Wouldn't that make it an Interfernce engine?

And BTW, FYI: PeopBoys has many tools for loan and I believe they have tools for changing the Timing belt.

Thanks again! :smile:

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Doesn't the valve cover use a gasket?

According to AllData Pro's spec it does but I don't see it mentioned in your tech article, which is correct?

** Correction: It is mentioned in the Haynes Mazda manual.

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Its listed in his write here in step one as an optional part I think installation is self explanitory :smile:

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^^ yep... you don't have to replace it is in good condition though ;) Just don't forget the little drops of RTV ;)

So why did my valves crash three years ago when I lost my TB on the NJ Tpk.? Wouldn't that make it an Interfernce engine?

Actually, that makes it a poorly maintained engine -- this happens when excessive carbon build up makes it an interference engine ;) If you take the head apart, you'll notice the valve relief cuts in the pistons which allow clearance... OR - your head was shaved from a previous repair :(

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Cool, thanks. And yes, I'm finding that it was a poorly maintained Engine.

Since it was given to me, I've been taking better care of it and learning a whole Hell of a lot.

Its been a costly education, but a good one. I just have to keep it going until I get a new one.

Thanks again for all the info. :smile:

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Great write-up. I recently did a timing chain replacement on my Toyota 4runner and I know my 626 4cyl is next. Your write-up will definitely help me since I don't have a repair manual. I just replaced my alternator last week (took less than 2 hours) and I only used what was posted in this forum to get me through. I think these forums are a Godsend...

My 626 has 211,000km and the belt was done by the dealer about 80,000km ago. I think I can hold off for about another 20,000 to 30,000km before I tear into the timing belt.

What master timing chain kit is recommended? Or should I get everything from the dealer?

TIA,

Troy :biggrin:

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I actually scrounged most of my parts... I got a new tensioner and spring on eBay (someone happened to be selling a new genuine Mazda tensioner) - $50. I got the belt from local autoparts store - $30 and I got a new valve cover gasket from somewhere else I think.

The dealer tends to be a quite expensive :/

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Thanks for the reply Paul. I'll do an Ebay search and see what I come up with. I don't want to go cheap for parts unless I know that they are decent, otherwise I'd be wasting my time tearing into it again to replace it.

Anyone else?

Troy

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Quick question; When removing the Oil dipstick tube, I read where there is an O-Ring and it should be replaced, what type and size is this O-Ring? Thanks.

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Quick question; When removing the Oil dipstick tube, I read where there is an O-Ring and it should be replaced, what type and size is this O-Ring? Thanks.

When you unbolt the tube at the top - you don't need to remove the whole tube. There is an O-ring at the base of the tube where it mates with the rest of the engine... I dont know if you can just go out and buy "oil dipstick tube O-ring" - but, O-rings are not special equipment, if you can find a similar sized one, it ought to work :biggrin:

I would think the dealer will try and sell the whole tube... but I don't know...

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I got two (hopefully) simple questions in my preparation for TB change soon...

-what size bolts are used for crankshaft pulley and camshaft sprockets. I will try to make a camshaft holding-tool, and I would like to have all the tools I need at home in advance...

-what is the best way to rebolt the crankshaft pulley bolt (21mm right?), I mean...how do you prevent the engine from turning when you try to rebolt the pulley?

FYI, I just read my Dutch mazda technical guide about timing belt change. This guide advices me to start threading the TB on the exhaust/idler side, because the idler is fixed, so you want that side of the TB installed without any play/margin, while on the tensioner side, the tensioner will remove the little bit of play....

I don't know, because I have never done a TB change before, just wanted to share this with you all :smile:

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I think the camshaft is a 10 or 12.... Crank is either a 19 or 21.... Use 6pt sockets if you can...

To retighten to crank pulley bolt.... If you have an mtx, put it in hear - have someone step on the brakes (if the car has both wheels off ground) and tighten as hard as you can. Otherwise, just get it as best you can. The whole thing rotates such that it naturally tightens itself ;)

You can check on the bolt later (I checked mine a week later). My splashgaurd had a removable rubber cover that allows inspection -- and I could fit my socket in there :biggrin:

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I did try doing the exhaust side first (the side with the idler). But because that method tends to make the cams pop out of position - I did it the other way (pulled really hard on tensioner side). As long as you hand crank and everything stays lined up after two full rotations -- you should be fine ;)

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Thanks for the reply!

I've never heard about 6pt, is it a quality grading? I've got a coupon worth €25 of free tools at the car shop nearby, so I'll take a look this weekend! Hope they sell breaker bars for the crank-pulley bolt ;) But if they are very expensive or not available, I'll just buy a piece of metal tubing which fits nicely over my ratchet (ratchet is said to be unbreakable, with life-time warranty, so this will be a nice way of testing that!)

I think, I'll open the valve cover soon to take a look at the cam sprocket bolt size, so I can buy the correct size wrench....and when I'm at it, I'll also take a look at the size of the crank-pulley bolt.

I'll have a helper

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6 pt means 6 points... versus a 12 point... A 6 point socket has more surface area on the bolt which means less likely to strip it...

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You dont need a super long breaker bar for the crank pulley bolt ;) Just something long enough so that you can use the starter motor method (blip the starter to break the bolt loose)... I used a piece of pipe over my wrench (cheater bar) to do this :biggrin:

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I did the timing belt yesterday. Job went perfect with your info, thanks Trebuchet03!

Just a few things to add:

-Tip, mtx only: I removed the crank pulley bolt by having my brother step on the brakes with car in 5th gear. I had a big (50-60cm) torque wrench on the bolt and could remove it by hand. I put it back at 160Nm in the same way. Took me 30 seconds to remove and again 30 seconds to reinstall the bolt....

-I had a second pair or hands (my brother). He had two big wrenches on the camshafts themselves (cast in hexagon), keeping the timing OK during install. I first threaded the belt on the crank-sprocket, then past the idler pulley, and then over the exhaust-cam-sprocket. This is not the same direction as what Trebuchet03 described. Advantage of starting at the idler, is that you know the belt has to be perfectly tight on that side to keep timing aligned.

-I would like to stress bolting the waterpump pulley evenly. I had the same problem as Trebuchet03: it rubbed against the timing cover (spaces are very tight!). This caused a 30min delay (removing both acc. belts, correct pulleybolts, reinstall both belts).

Just to answer a few of my own questions:

-crank pulley bolt is 21mm

-cam-sprocket bolt is 14mm

-I used an adjustable wrench of 0-30mm for holding the camshafts on the cast-in hexagon

-I came across the following bolts sizes: 10, 12, 14, 15, 17 and 21mm (my brother bought a 17mm socket after an hour of work, as I didn't have one yet)

-For a few bolts located far away, a long socket would be helpful (10, 12, and 14mm)

-Take notice of the braces for the crank-sensor wire: re-attaching them took us some time to figure out the correct points of attachment

-By keeping the lockbolt of the p/s pump in place, but removing the two bolts of the p/s-pump bracket, I could move the p/s pump away when needed, without having to hang it by some wire or something.

And then my final comment. I think the job is very self-explanatory. I read and printed this post by Trebuchet03 and read my Haynes manual. But in the end, I only referred to the Haynes manual for the torques needed for rebolting: the rest of the job I didn't need to take took one look at my print of this post/my manual...

The total job took me 5 hours (including replacing the waterpump (1 hour - rethreading takes some time to have the pump perfectly aligned and you're dealing with tight spaces) and both idler and tensioner), and it was my first timing belt job. I took quite some time to do it in a relaxed way, talking to neighbors who came to took a look at what I was doing. But by doing it in a relaxed way, almost everything went perfect at once (expect the w/p pulley)

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I also did mine yesterday and came across the same problem with the WP pulley rubbing against the upper timing belt cover. I went back in this morning to redo the WP pulley, but it still rubbed. As a last resort, I shimmed it up with a piece of rubber, which I sandwiched between the upper cover and the right motor mount to keep the cover away from the pulley. So far, so good. The tensioner, spring, idler, water pump and belt were all changed in about 4 hours and then another 1.5 hours today to remedy the rubbing issue between the WP pulley and the upper timing cover.

This thread was very helpful and I probably saved a lot of time using it.

Thanks again Trebuchet03 for the write up!

Troy

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The rubbing and clacking noise from the WP pulley and upper timing cover are annoying. I tried realigning and made sure the WP pulley was seated evenly on the WP. I think it's the aftermarket WP that isn't built to spec.

Anyone have this problem?

Troy

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