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GSXlaunch

Timing Belt Or Tensioner-help!

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My 98 626 2.0 started making this terrible grinding noise this morning. It is coming from the timing belt cover. It almost sounds like a small deisel engine. Sounds like the belt is starting to come apart or a tensioner is gone. However, it seems to quiet done at around 3k rpms. I dont plan on driving the car after today until this gets resolved. Anyone care to chime in on how to replace the timing belt and or tensioner? I assume this can be done with the engine in the car. I need to get this fixed asap as this is my daily driver. Thanks in advance for the help.

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Never heard of a friction gear...I am picking up a chilton's manual today B) I should mention that the car has just under 96k miles on it and I am sure the timing belt has never been changed. I am leaning more towards it being the tensioner pulley or the belt itself. Where can I get a timing belt kit yesterday?? Where is the gear you mention exactly? I will check that before I do anything else. By the way, thanks for responding.

TT

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There was a tensioner spring recall on some of the years. Not sure if yours is one of them. You can call the dealer to find out.When I did my timing belt I had to replace the spring because I stretched it too much :(

If the timing belt cover bolts come loose then the water pump pulley ends up rubbing on the cover. Check that first.

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99% that the spring is broken. I had the same symptoms and it was a broken spring. Good thing was that nothing happen with timing. I had 120.000km. Remove valve cover and check belt. If it's loose it's a spring

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Well, from what you guys are talking about it does sound like the spring is gone. It really sounds like the belt is very loose and possibly rubbing against the inner tb cover. As I rev/gain speed perhaps it tightens up a bit quieting the grinding rubbing sound down a bit. The spring will be the first thing I check. The t-belt change cant be any more difficult than my 4G63. That sucker is a PIA. Regardless, I really appreciate all the help. Oh, jpit, that link did not work. Can you add the pic to this thread? Thanks again.

TT

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Sorry about the pic. Don't know what I did wrong but here it is as an attachment. The red arrow shows the spring.

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Well, took it apart today and found the spring had fallen off completly. I had to fish it out with a magnet. How the car even ran like that is beyond me. Even so, took care of it with a new spring from the dealer (6 bucks)....put everything back together and fire her up. Immediately I notice no belt noise but idle is extremely rough and the car shuts off a few times. It took at least 3 tries to get it started and again same rough idle. If I rev it above 1500rpm it sounds completely normal...if I hold it at 1200-1300rpm it sounds normal. As soon as I let off the gas the engine begins to stumble and eventually dies. I am guessing my method for removing the (tight as hell) crank pulley bolt caused the belt to slip. I pinned a breaker bar on the passenger axle and cranked the engine to get it loose. Since the belt was so loose I guess it slipped a 2, maybe 3 teeth while cranking. I figured this when I went to align all the marks when I was putting everything back together. Everything was lining up perfectly except for the crank mark. When the cam gear markings (both front and rear) would align, the crank mark was about 3 teeth past t its mark. So, after unhooking the new spring, I zipp tied the cam gears together as they were alligned, and zipp tied the belt to the firewall side cam gear. I pulled the belt off the front cam gear first then off the crank gear. I then rotated the engine at the crank gear back a little until it lined up with its mark. Thinking everything was good, I slipped the belt back around the crank gear then the front cam gear and reintalled the spring. However, the car still runs like compete crap. Anyone have any ideas on what to do? I had a gut feeling pulling off the belt at that point was a bad idea. :angry: Need some help fellas. I am really running out of time. Thanks again for the help.

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My guess is that you are still one tooth off. But before you tackle it again make sure to reset the ECU. Wouldn't want to go through all that work for nothing.

Take the time to grow another pair of hands.

As you are facing the pulleys make sure that the belt is tight on the right side(idler pulley side) not the tensioner side. With the belt tight on the right side, align the crank pulley marks, then without moving the crank pulley, and with keeping the belt tight on the right side, align tboth cam marks while making sure that they meet at exactly the plane surface of the cylinder head. I found it quite frustrating when I did mine.

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An easy way to make sure the cams are right is to put a straight edge across the centers of the cam gear bolts and make sure the marks really are facing eachother, sometimes they look straight but are really 1 tooth up or down giving a rough idle.

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An easy way to make sure the cams are right is to put a straight edge across the centers of the cam gear bolts and make sure the marks really are facing eachother, sometimes they look straight but are really 1 tooth up or down giving a rough idle.

That's an excellent tip B)

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Another tip is to remove the spark plugs to relieve any compression pressure from the cylinders that makes the aligning the marks more difficult. Also use a strap wrench to hold the crank pulley when you torque the crank pulley bolt to spec when buttoning up the installation.

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Thanks for the tips. Unfortunately I had to borrow another car to get me to work today. I just checked the timing marks and when the crank is dead on the "T" the cam gears are a little off. The intake cam gear's mark is about 1-2 teeth above the vertical plane of the head and the exh cam gear is about 2 teeth below it. Just to make sure I am clear on what needs to be done - Please correct me if I am wrong - I need to basically start over. First I need to align the cam gears as best I can. Remove the spring to release tension on the belt...remove the belt and turn the crank to allign on the "T" mark...then slip the belt on, making sure the cam gears do not move. Re-install the spring; put everything back together and give a try. I removed the spark plugs this time(something I neglected to do the first time). I put a long screw driver in the plug hole to see when the piston is reaching the peak of its travel. Seems so much easier said then done. Again, I have no help. So I have to figure out how to do this on my own. Thanks for your help. It is truly appreciated.

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Sounds like a friction gear (pretty sure the 4 cyl. has these too) spring.  Simple job, you just pull the valve cover off to get access.

Oops I wasn't thinking. Both cams are belt driven on the 4 banger so there is no friction gear, d'oh!

Regarding slipping the belt on; if you always end up 1 tooth off, then put the belt on 1 tooth ahead, so when you release the tensioner it is dead on.

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Regarding slipping the belt on; if you always end up 1 tooth off, then put the belt on 1 tooth ahead, so when you release the tensioner it is dead on.

Make sure it's the intake side that's 1 ahead, or pointer pointing up If I'm not mistaken

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