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626Guy

What Type Of Gear Oil?

15 posts in this topic

What are people using on their 2.2 liter 5 speeds for gear oil? I find first gear sometimes doesn't go in as smooth as it used to. And reverse is becoming difficult to engage sometimes as well. Of course the car is driven in a cold climate and has high kilometres (321,000+), but has anyone tried synthetics, or maybe Redline? TIA.

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hey i have put 4 manual transmissions in 88-92 turbos in the last 5 months and i have always used the cheapest $6 us for one gallon of 80w90 everytime, never had a problem. I know that amsoil makes a product for mtx and differentials (all the same product) that works miricles and even improves gas milage. It is a bit pricey, about 6 bucks a quart. But that stuff will hook you on synthetics maybe even solve your problems but watch out b/c i had a mtx that shifted hard into first and reverse like oyu said and then one day it was stuck into a gear and couldn't be removed. I ended up taking the thing apart and finding out that the three bolts that hold the guide plate down had all worked themselves out and were stuck to the magnet at the bottom. hopefully that doesn't happen to you.

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i have done very much work on these transmissions in these 626's and every time i have put any fluid in them i always used dexronIIImercon automatic transmission fluid, that's what the haynes manual says...

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well I have been told that DextronIII automatic transmission fluid should do the trick + you should gaing some performance... but im gonna check it out further nxt year... as im going to increase the performance of my car..

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ok this sounds dumb, but where do you fill the tranny fluid at? mine is a manual, all the shops say take out the speedo cable and fill at that point. but there has to be a filler plug or something. anybody know anything? i want to fill my tranny with lucas lube. thanks

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The manuals are right, you pull the bolt out that holds the whole speedo cable and gear in the tranny, and put the fluid in through the speedo hole. A long auto tranny funnel works good.

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I have always used ATF in my Manual transmission without any transmission failure. There is a small bolt right beside the speedometer cable at the transmission. Use a ratchet and 3" to 6" extension with if I remember right 10 or 12 millimeter socket. After you remove the bolt you sould be able to get the cable out so you can refill it. But dont fill it all the way up. On the cable there is a gage that you use like a dipstick to put it the proper amount.

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Well, either ATF OR Gear oil is recommended in my 1990 owner's manual. The T/M had ATF when I bought it - so that's what I am using. The transmission shop told me that it would shift better with ATF than gear oil. There is SOME risk that the gear oil you buy may contain SULPHUR ... which slowly destroys the brass or bronze synchro rings. If you choose the gear oil route - read the label NO SULPHUR.

Having said that, I have been online like now - (I must not have a life) reading about ATF in manual transmissions. ATF is more of a hydraulic oil than a true lubricant - although it does an adequate job of lubricating. Think about how many automatics are using it. Staggering. BUT, GM and Chrysler have moved away from usiing it in current manual transmissions. They are now using an oil called SYNCHROMESH. I've thought about trying it in my old 1990 626. Maybe. There are some GOOD additives to go along with the ATF - Lucas makes one for standard transmissions that is suppose to be very helpful.

I put full synthetic gear oil in my son's B2200 - it shifted O.K. after the switch, but the synchromesh rings did not work as good as they were working with the regular gear oil which I drained out. It's for sale so I am not going to change back to the old style stuff. I've HEARD that the full synthetic oils can cause leaks in seals. I do NOT really think that it's true, but ... you never know.

So - in review. I'd go with the ATF. I might consider an additive with the ATF, but I'm not sure if I'm ready to switch to full synthetic ATF or the new synchromesh oil.

I sanded the "cylinder" speedometer drive with #400 wet/dry emery - just a touch - so now it SLIPS in and out like a dream. Easy to check and easy to fill.

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Hi! I was very happy to find these forums and this is my first post.

I live in Sweden and have a 626 2.2i 1990 manual 5spd, and I feel that the gear changing is not as smooth as it could be.

I have done a lot of research of which gear oil to use, but have not come to a conclusion yet. My Mazda dealer just said "Use an ATF oil". Manual says "GL-4, GL-5, ATF type F or Dextron II" -not very helpful...

I heard Redline might be one of the best oils to use. Now, my local dealer recommended me to use the Redline "MT-90", but when I sent a mail to a support guy at redlineoil.com, I was recommended to use the "D4ATF". When reading the tech sheets, it looks like the MT-90 is quite a lot thicker?

Any advice here would be very much appreciated.

Regards,

Speedo

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What are people using on their 2.2 liter 5 speeds for gear oil? I find first gear sometimes doesn't go in as smooth as it used to. And reverse is becoming difficult to engage sometimes as well. Of course the car is driven in a cold climate and has high kilometres (321,000+), but has anyone tried synthetics, or maybe Redline? TIA.

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlub...=57&subcatID=18

I use this. Works great. Or just use Dexron-II, 80w90.

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Well, either ATF OR Gear oil is recommended in my 1990 owner's manual. The T/M had ATF when I bought it - so that's what I am using. The transmission shop told me that it would shift better with ATF than gear oil. There is SOME risk that the gear oil you buy may contain SULPHUR ... which slowly destroys the brass or bronze synchro rings. If you choose the gear oil route - read the label NO SULPHUR.

Having said that, I have been online like now - (I must not have a life) reading about ATF in manual transmissions. ATF is more of a hydraulic oil than a true lubricant - although it does an adequate job of lubricating. Think about how many automatics are using it. Staggering. BUT, GM and Chrysler have moved away from usiing it in current manual transmissions. They are now using an oil called SYNCHROMESH. I've thought about trying it in my old 1990 626. Maybe. There are some GOOD additives to go along with the ATF - Lucas makes one for standard transmissions that is suppose to be very helpful.

I put full synthetic gear oil in my son's B2200 - it shifted O.K. after the switch, but the synchromesh rings did not work as good as they were working with the regular gear oil which I drained out. It's for sale so I am not going to change back to the old style stuff. I've HEARD that the full synthetic oils can cause leaks in seals. I do NOT really think that it's true, but ... you never know.

So - in review. I'd go with the ATF. I might consider an additive with the ATF, but I'm not sure if I'm ready to switch to full synthetic ATF or the new synchromesh oil.

I sanded the "cylinder" speedometer drive with #400 wet/dry emery - just a touch - so now it SLIPS in and out like a dream. Easy to check and easy to fill.

Most of the synthetic fluids have some kind of friction modifier in them which makes them much to slippery for the syncros (especially the aftermarket redline etc.. oils) redline 4dATF is synthetic but it doesnt have any friction modifiers in it. WOrks great.

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OKay, please stop using ATF fluid in a 5spd maunal tranmission. The oil gets to hot to quickly. ATF is for hydraulic pressure and doesn't do such a good job in lubricating the gears. Did you ever wonder why most transmission will last 20 years where as auto's last 10 if you're lucky. Please use 80w90 and and use lucas oil additives. Put 50% lucas and 50% gear oil( 80w90)

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I experienced the rougher shifting on my 626 at around 180K miles. I went with Mobil synthetic (70-90, I think) gear oil. The shifting difference is night and day better. It costs around $30-$35, but the results are worth it, imo. Like Rahim said, I would stick with gear oil on a manual trans., whether synthetic or not. A BMW mechanic friend of mine also claims it is preferable to ATF in manuals.

Renner

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