pvkamath

Valve Cover Gaskets (VCG's)

173 posts in this topic

1994 mazda 626 V6

I noticed that that two front spark plugs(right and left) are soaked in oil. The middle one is okay.

The mechanic is saying that I need a valve cover gasket replacement.

I have the Haynes and Chilton's manual and am all set to order valve covers. I have not done any repairs on any cars till date.

Is it too ambitious of a project for a beginner ? Is there anything particularly important that I should remember while doing it ?

Thanks in advance,

Kamath. :unsure:

Edited by snailman153624
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its pretty simple...I did that to my car in my shop

just be sure to not over torque the bolts on the valve cover..they break easily..i found out the hard way

just take off the valve cover..and the the gasket is there..

get the gasket from mazda dealer or ford dealer

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It is real easy to do. If all you are replacing is the front, it's not a big deal. The rear one is alot more time consuming (as you have to remove the fuel rail, IM, etc for access). Here is the info for replacing the front:

Tools:

Valve cover gasket

RTV sealant

gasket remover or screwdriver

10mm socket driver (I think)

1) disconnect the battery

2) remove the PCV valve (the thing going into the top of the valve cover

3) Unbolt the valve cover

When you take off the valve cover, use a screwdriver or gasket scraper to clean out the entire length of where the VCG was. It may take you an hour if you are really diligent (like me), but it's better than getting a leak. Test fit the new VCG to make sure it fits. Make sure you spend an equal amount of time cleaning off the the area where the VC was seated. After you do that, put a thin line of RTV in the groove on the VC where the new VCG will fit, near the outer edge on the bottom. The reason for this is that if you use too much RTV and you seal the VC down, the extra RTV will just fill the groove and not go into the oil. DO NOT PUT ALOT OF RTV ON. If you do, it may squeeze out when you tighten the bolts and then you could get RTV in your valve train or oil senders. Not good. But don't worry, this isn't a hard project at all. Once you have seated the new VCG on the VC, let it sit a minute then put the VC back on. Make sure you torque the bolts in a pattern similar to the way you do your tires (top left, bottom right, etc). Tighten them to pretty well, but don't force them. Check the edges to make sure NO parts of the VCG are bulging out. If it is, start over again. No need to buy another VCG if you have to start again as the new one will work fine. Once done, hook everything up and run the car. Drive for about 30 minutes and then stop and check for leaks. You should be all set now. Don't buy the VCG from the dealer, they will rip you. I got mine for $19 from www.thepartsbin.com. Here is the link. Free UPS shipping, too! You may also want to invest in some valve cover seal washers.. You will see where they need to go when you take the VC off. Mine were new, so I didn't replace them.

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I looked up the valve cover seal washers and there are two choices in the parts, one "Reqs 18" and one "Reqs 5". Does it matter which one I order ?

Thanks,

Kamath.

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I need to replace my rear gasket too, and replace the oxygen sensor that's back there as well. How are hard of a job is this ?

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Newbie here,

I read about the oil in the front two spark plug wells. I have oil in one of the rear bank spark plugs. The dealership said it would run me about $500 because of all the stuff on top. Anyone ever change the rear valve cover gasket? I had a shop change the rear O2 sensor. I didn't have the time to to do it myself. Thanks in advance.

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hey noobies please include your car type so we can help ya better...............year etc.........

if ya can find a service manual online for cheap for your car then buy one or else order one frm the dealer they run about 120 cdn not sure about us dollars

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Sorry Canada626,

I have a 1994 626, V6 ES with 90K miles. I just wanted to know if it was worth the amount of time to work on the rear bank valve cover gasket. I figured the front would be much easier.

El Pepe,

Thanks for the info. I forgot to check that site. I think I will bring the car into the dealer to get done. Valve cover gasket and also intake gaskets sounds like a little longer than 4 hour job. I have to work on my headers for my dodge dakota truck. I do have the service manual but time is short with two little boys. I just had the dealer change the rear brake caliper because the parking braking binded up for the second time.

Thanks again.

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I have a '97-V6-626 and have oil in several of the spark plug wells and on the ignition side of the plug as well. How do I know if it is the valve cover gasket or the valve guide oil seals?

Also I am looking at the haynes manual and it looks like the vavle guide oils seals are a lot more work to replace than just the cover gasket. Do I have to remove the camshafts to get to these?

Thanks

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I have a '97-V6-626 and have oil in several of the spark plug wells and on the ignition side of the plug as well. How do I know if it is the valve cover gasket or the valve guide oil seals?

Also I am looking at the haynes manual and it looks like the vavle guide oils seals are a lot more work to replace than just the cover gasket. Do I have to remove the camshafts to get to these?

Thanks

The valve guides seal oil in from the cylinders, not the spark plug wells. The valve cover gaskets are what keep oil leaking externally on the engine. So, you need to replace your valve cover gasket(s).

Found mine online for $18 each shipped, http://www.intlautoparts.com

I've ordered from them a ton before, even when something came broken due to shipping damages, they sent another one right away, good people B)

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Valve Cover Seal Washer should i get Reqs 18 or Reqs 5? ^_^

REQS means "requires;" These are the rubber washers and sleeves on the screws. If your old ones are not torn, then there is no need to replace them (unless you see leaks). It is just saying that there are 18 of the first one, and 5 of the second one, so 23 total (if you were to replace all of them).

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I went to Autozone and Napa to find out some prices on valve cover gaskets....Napa said the job also requires the intake manifold gasket being replaced. Napa gave me a $200 quote and Autozone gave me $160. Now im not sure if the autozone package included intake manifold gasket but it is a package with more than just the valve covers...my question is....should i be buying these "packages" or should i just try to get the valve covers on there own....and is 160 a good price? ^_^

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I went to Autozone and Napa to find out some prices on valve cover gaskets....Napa said the job also requires the intake manifold gasket being replaced. Napa gave me a $200 quote and Autozone gave me $160. Now im not sure if the autozone package included intake manifold gasket but it is a package with more than just the valve covers...my question is....should i be buying these "packages" or should i just try to get the valve covers on there own....and is 160 a good price? ^_^

Thats insane, just buy the gaskets & some RTV sealant. Replace only the gasket thats leaking, if the rear one isn't leaking leave it alone. I replaced the front valve cover gasket & bought sealant for under 25 bucks, & I purchased the gasket at the dealer.

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The intake manifold gaskets DO NOT need to be replaced unless you damage them. They are stamped steel, so just be careful not to bend them and you can reuse them.

Let me put it this way: I paid $18 a gasket online at:

http://www.intlautoparts.com and you only need 2 gaskets (one front, one rear) for a grand total of $36.

They also have the rubber washers/bolt sleeves that say "18 required" and "5 required" but you only need to replace these if yours leak, which they rarely if ever do. You can order a few to be on the safe side, but I didn't, and mine is still good a year later B)

Also, when torquing down the valve cover, DO NOT exceed the torque specified in the repair manual, the bolts are designed to BREAK if you do, to avoid damaging the heads. I found this out the hard way.

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Thats insane, just buy the gaskets & some RTV sealant.  Replace only the gasket thats leaking, if the rear one isn't leaking leave it alone.  I replaced the front valve cover gasket & bought sealant for under 25 bucks, & I purchased the gasket at the dealer.

Sweet!!!! Thats the kind of answer I was hoping for. Anyways, I have to replace both vcg's. Im thinking about doing the front one myself (I heard it was a half hour job) but leaving the rear one for a mechanic to do. Do you know how long the rear vcg should take to install so I have some idea how much labour will cost?

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The intake manifold gaskets DO NOT need to be replaced unless you damage them. They are stamped steel, so just be careful not to bend them and you can reuse them.

Let me put it this way: I paid $18 a gasket online at:

http://www.intlautoparts.com and you only need 2 gaskets (one front, one rear) for a grand total of $36.

They also have the rubber washers/bolt sleeves that say "18 required" and "5 required" but you only need to replace these if yours leak, which they rarely if ever do. You can order a few to be on the safe side, but I didn't, and mine is still good a year later B)

Also, when torquing down the valve cover, DO NOT exceed the torque specified in the repair manual, the bolts are designed to BREAK if you do, to avoid damaging the heads. I found this out the hard way.

I went to the site and only found one vcg for my car..not two (front and back). Do I just buy two of them? And I've never bought anything off the internet..paranioa I guess...but im thinking i might have to start to save some $$$ on car parts...Oh my babe!! I want to fix her but she costs me so much!!!!

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Make sure you choose the 2.5 V6 and it will show two different ones. If it only shows one, you are probably in the 2.0 4 cylinder section.

I didn't do the rear, but it's not something even a newb couldn't do. You just have to be patient. There really are no tricks to it. :huh: Unbolt the intake manifold, remove all those tiny little tubes and label them or take pics, and then you have access to the rear valve cover.

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Don't buy the VCG from the dealer, they will rip you.  I got mine for $19 from www.thepartsbin.com.  Here is the link. Free UPS shipping, too!  You may also want to invest in some valve cover seal washers..  You will see where they need to go when you take the VC off.  Mine were new, so I didn't replace them.

I looked everywhere for my vcg's and all I could find is 160 here, 200 there. Suprisengly, the dealer sold them both (front and back) to me for 70 bucks!!! SO the dealer isnt ALWAYS a rip off! Dont rule them out for parts cuz sometimes you'll find parts cheaper there than anywhere else! By the way, what does RTV stand for???? or should i just ask for RTV sealant at crap tire and theyll know?

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Then you didn't look everywhere. The link I posted has it for $18 each....but ok :rolleyes:

American $18?

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Then you didn't look everywhere.  The link I posted has it for $18 each....but ok  :rolleyes:

American $18?

YES, why not click on the link already :rolleyes:

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Ok so Ive taken a look at the engine and it looks like the front valve cover can be taken off no problem.. But the back one....where do i start? Can anyone give me a step by step in removing the rear valve cover? ^_^

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